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Do I want feet on the bottom of my candle tins?


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Guest OldGlory

I've been pouring tins for 10+ years, and I wholesale. Never used a footed tin.

If you have questions about it, why not test both? Best way to get an answer you'll be satisfied with is to see it for yourself.

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I've been pouring tins for 10+ years, and I wholesale. Never used a footed tin.

If you have questions about it, why not test both? Best way to get an answer you'll be satisfied with is to see it for yourself.

Thanks, I just wasn't sure if it was a safety thing with the candle getting hot or something. Thanks!

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They do get hot. I use a wick with a long neck which puts out the flame about 1/4 above the bottom.

Well I guess you would assume that a lit flame within a metal container would cause the container to become hot right? Not being sarcastic, just trying to clarify since I haven't yet used a metal tin for candles. But I plan to go that route this time since I'd like that look better. But it'd be the same caution as with a glass container candle, or any candle for that matter, to not move while lit.

Edited by ashncandles
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Well I guess you would assume that a lit flame within a metal container would cause the container to become hot right? Not being sarcastic, just trying to clarify since I haven't yet used a metal tin for candles. But I plan to go that route this time since I'd like that look better. But it'd be the same caution as with a glass container candle, or any candle for that matter, to not move while lit.

The tins can get so hot the wax can ignite like a can of Sterno, and also can scorch furniture, so the feet help keep the bottom cooler and off the furniture. Glass jars can overheat and break if they don't set it on a candle plate because wood and synthetic counter tops can trap heat against the bottom, but a plate helps disperse heat away from the glass jar.

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I find that tins are more difficult than glass to wick properly. What seems underwicked at the start of the candle can turn out way overwicked in the bottom third of the burn.

The tins do not conduct heat the same way glass containers do, so the bottom half of the candles can get hot quickly.

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I find that tins are more difficult than glass to wick properly. What seems underwicked at the start of the candle can turn out way overwicked in the bottom third of the burn.

The tins do not conduct heat the same way glass containers do, so the bottom half of the candles can get hot quickly.

I had not heard this, thank you for the info! :)

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Guest OldGlory
I find that tins are more difficult than glass to wick properly. What seems underwicked at the start of the candle can turn out way overwicked in the bottom third of the burn.

The tins do not conduct heat the same way glass containers do, so the bottom half of the candles can get hot quickly.

This is true. I try to underwick slightly for the first half(ish) for that very reason. You don't want to leave a lot of hang-up, but some should be there.

As with all wax/container/fragrance combinations, you really have to test every different combination to be sure.

I have power burned (burned for 12 hours straight) and none of my 464 soy wax candles in tins or glass caught on fire. And I've had wholesale clients that burned my candles all day in their stores without a problem.

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