Henryk

I use the ones from candlewic - nice colors and arrive nicely packaged (on cardboard, sealed in plastic - and not smashed up or anything).

Oh great, another bookmark!!! I'm already close to 400!

Thanks alot guys...

You think you are bad? at "only" 400 ? I'm now up to 6,771.

Actually frost on soy is also sometimes referred to as "bloom" by some.

Certain parts of the lower-melt point fats that migrate and oxidize to the surface on chocolates (and soy candles) and even the oils in things like in rubber car tires when heated also gives give off a coating-type appearance on the surface.

My understanding is that on soy the bloom or frost is actually fat - while on beeswax its actually a type of sugar in the wax.

You can temporarily remove the bloom on a beeswax candle via a hair drier or by rubbing it off - but it will come back again.

When people ask you what that white stuff is just act sophisticated and say its the "antique patina of pure beeswax".

I have been trying to minimize this, like yourself, for YEARS. The best way I have found is:

1. Use the lowest meltpoint wax you can get away with it.

2. Use a wick that does not have a normally high flame to begin with.

3. Use a container not much higher than it is wide.

For my container candles I'm using 115F meltpoint soy with plain cotton wicks...and sticking that in a frosted container makes a really relaxing candle.

You have to watch out though - wicking high to get that really hot melt pool for scent throw will cause the exact problem you are trying to avoid.

HTH

Neither do I. Personally I can't wait for them to get bloom all over them.

I'm kinda not picturing what you are describing/want --- but if you just add a bit of brown to any color it will give you a "prim" looking color.

BW doesn't shrink and equals the same weight in solid and liquid form - so if you make one and have a good scale you should be able to extrapolate from that. (As long as you are sure its pure BW and isn't cut with something like paraffin).

Is their container palm wax different than other suppliers out there, or are they the only ones that is carring this wax?

I want to get the results they claim and the good cold & hot throws I have read about on here. I would like to purchase someware closer to reduce shipping.

I was just wondering if its the IGI "Glass Glow" product that they announced around the time they purchased part of Astorlite? Does anyone remember that? Here is an old thread about it: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10054

Using tin pillar molds will give you a shiner surface than rubber or silicone - however to get a really shiny surface (and prevent bloom) you'll need to use a coating product. Its much harder to get BW out of tin molds btw.

I went back to soy - but I did try the 2530H - it mottles beautifully. I think you will like it. (Don't judge the mottle right away - wait at least over night).

Thanks Top!

I kinda thought I would like to get the candlewic frame, and I do want something at Genwax so I'll get their vat so it all works out.

Thanks everyone!

EDIT: Well, the 8" vat is out - I didn't realize the amount of wax it will take until I calculated it. Even filling it up to 12" to do 10 inch tapers would take 19 pounds of wax. I can't even melt that much at one time! So, guess I'll be doing just a few tapers in a smaller vat.

Who sells these? Are there any available at least 12" long?

TIA

Well, I know I no longer have the time I used to have, so I've been trying to think things over regarding what I can continue to do - candlemaking and otherwise.

One thing I've been thinking of trying is to make more tapers in one session - so that means a frame and vat.

Has anyone used either of these:

http://www.candlechem.com/images/Taper_Dipping_Frame.jpg

http://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=cTaper+Dipping+Equip.,p202

The candlewic one seems like you can wick it easier, no? The problem is you need at least a 7" vat. With the candlechem one you can get by with a 6" vat. So thats my second question, has anyone come across 7" vats?

TIA

Pier1 does these - they call them "Tidewater Ice Block Candles".

I really like that look too - but aren't a lot of the "grubbied" items done with paraffin?

Thats a great post Donita. Maybe I should try the micros again - especially since I already use high MP wax when doing electrics. Do you get your micro 180 from candlewic or somewhere else?

TIA!

WicknWax,

This is what c15 does to a straight paraffin if interested.

http://www.candletech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1438&d=1126743121

Paraflint works also, for my tests it seems to get rid of the imperfections in the wax without making real opaque like Vybar so that may be worth a try too. I guess IMO I would rate it from not opaque to opaque this way: paraflint (aka clear/translucent crystals), c15 (gloss poly), then vybar (103). I tried the micros but when I was testing these things it was to control fingernailing so I went with the c15 and paraflint.

HTH

I always thought this was one of the best concise introductions on wicking.

http://www.moonglowcandles.net/projects/i-aboutwicks.htm

Definitely check with http://www.earlyamericancandlesupplies.com/wicks2.asp

I know the wicks you want are not listed on their site, but their store seems to have everything - tons of different wicks - and they do deal with A&P. They are also VERY helpful.

HTH

IGI 1260. If you get fingernailing - add paraflint. For bubbles and other surface-type imperfections it really is a matter of pour temp.

HTH

Where have I been?

I've been broke.

:lipsrseal

If you have tried both, do you seem to get better rustics in tin or in seamless molds?

TIA

Does anyone know if its safe to put something like FO in a microwave? Not being mean or anything, but you will have to learn patience if you do want to get into candlemaking. If you rush things, you will just wind up wasting money and time.