Henryk

I think you guys need to give more credit to the mold - from Mann Lake Bee Supply - and less to me.

Thanks Pam also - I'm wondering if the ones you saw where from a certain company that makes REALLY expensive beeswax candles - I've read posts from people who buy them and talk about them - IMO they sound like cult members. I mean, Candlewic has a sale on beeswax right now at 3 bucks a pound.

Dee and Pam - I just pour them, wick them with either a one or two size larger square braid than the diameter of the pillar and thats it. If you want the drips, just save some wax in the pot and wait until it starts to cool in the pot and drip it over - its just like dripping "frosting" over a cake candle. (Beeswax does drip really well for this type of effect). For this 2.5" one I use a #3 square braid - sometimes a thicker "fern" part doesn't want to fold in as fast as the other parts so I may just push it in a bit (cheat - there, I said it) when I extinguish the candle instead of waiting - if I put a larger wick in it just for this reason I would have to trim it too often - I like lighting them for an evening and just letting it go.

Dee - I think I have that Canadian supplier bookmarked - with the German molds - I think they are all displayed in a gold color ? If so I've always like them - but I can't afford to pay that much.

I have never heard of "white" soot before? Now I am really confused, lol!

Let me confuse you even more by giving you my point of view - from experience.

I have made and burned soy candles for years now. I have never seen white soot - ever. I have absolutely huge BLACK window blinds on every window in my living room - there is no white soot on them after all this time. Nor do I have black soot on my walls - which are all white. I HAVE seen soy throw black soot for many reasons - over wicked, in drafts, or from air currents in the jar that make the wick "dance".

I also make beeswax candles probably one of the most natural waxes there is and let me tell you - if you don't trim the wick on a BW candle properly it will throw soot like crazy.

So my point is that you:

1. Need to make a good quality candle and

2. Need to tend to it properly

That is the best you are going to be able to do.

Thanks! Thats exactly what I have (tall grubby CWOF). The electrics I'm making from it for xmas look amazing!

"Pitch Black" (flakes - either from BCN or Cocoon). You can never really get real black with palm though - I remember this set - the liquid wax looked like tar. I messed this one up though with the repour - see that over flow on the right?.

Oh - it was also poured really hot - then kept in a warm oven. The wax was the original Astorlite stuff - it would reallly splinter up nice if cooled that way.

I have a CG mold - pillar type - very primitive bumpy type. I'm finding because of the suction (I assume) of the middle part of it - the only way I can get them out easily is by totally turning the mold inside out, wrapping it off the candle like a sock. I'm am assuming this is going to damage the mold. If any of you have a similar mold, is there any tricks to getting them out? Perhaps I'm just not fiddling enough with it.

TIA

Yes it is. When I used to do these I used a very simple trick - I used to put my molds on a radiator while the wax was melting - that heated the bottoms (tops) - perfect every time. Tops of that square mold should look like this:

I don't do paraffin containers, but from my notes an HTP 104 and 105 are right around a 60C.

I've been testing zincs in 3 1/2 inch keepsake jars, and so far (for me) most FOs can use 2 x 44-20-18z and a couple use 44-24-18z. I never gave zincs a chance before, I used HTPs and LXs. NOw I'm finding I can't double wick with HTPs and LXs and keep the MP from getting too deep. Even 2 x HTP62 gives me a full 1/2 inch MP after only two hours and the flames are nearly drowning! The zincs are burning much cooler. Now to try the zincs in my melting pot jars!

geek

Hi geek - what wax type are you using this with if I may ask? I've been on and off double wicking >3" jars, but since I'm using KY's 125/115 I haven't tried Zincs with it.

TIA.

I didn't know where to post this - perhaps "business" section? I've been shopping around for some candle items and don't get this. I came across a couple sites that belong to something like "top 100 prim sites" or something like that - they all seem to link to each other and you vote for them. Its like some sort of shopping maze. Guess I'm showing my ignorance, but are these places safe to order from - and what is the point of advertising OTHER sites selling the same type of items you are? Then I get to one site and it states something like "if you were tricked in coming here" - another one said, something like "if you were tricked into voting for such and such a site". Anyway, I'd like to order from a couple of them - but this was something I've not come across before.

Thanks!

Just wanted to post back and say all you guys are too kind - really - and to thank you so very much for all of your compliments.

Donita (a member here) does: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20948

She is usually on the regular board - not the veg board so you may want to ask there. I know she has tutorials you can purchase too.

Well, it wasn't that much of a help - I didn't answer your question about the amount of FO - standard for paraffin is about 3 to 5% I believe (depends on the wax), I found one website though that says you need to add "more" to overcome the natural scent of bw itself - though how much more was not stated. Personally, if it were me I wouldn't scent them - it makes it that much easier because you don't have to test for different scents that way! Plus I think the people who are into beeswax buy if for the fact that its made of beeswax - not that its scented.

Regarding the tapers, some of the "prim" ones I see are really nice and really "grubbied" - but they are decorative only - I would consider them more of an accent piece - or if highly scented - like a potpourri item.

I've never seen any published material on the amount of FO that BW actually "holds" and I don't use FO in it myself - so I can help you there for the max amount.

No, I would not burn those tapers rolled in spices, etc.

Could it be wick size, reheating the wax over and over? There is no breeze to affect the flame. Thanks for your help/

Well, yes it could be the wick size. Are you wicking all the same type of candle with the same size wick? If so, and only one burns bad, then its something else. (All things being equal - are you dying them, scenting them?).

I've found BW candles burn better with larger square braid wicks (or flats if you prefer for tapers), but trimmed smaller - say, 1/8". Also, priming the wick seems to work better for that very first burn (Your wick won't fray as much). BW seems to burn a small well very fast into the wax when first lit - then settles down. However, many times, leaving that wick longer will cause it to smoke because it burns a small well in the wax very fast when first lit and the wick stays longer, flame gets higher, and the smoking will start. So, paying good attention to trimming really will make a difference in your testing - and your burning.

As long as you aren't burning the wax when reusing (I think for BW its over 190F) then I don't believe it should make a difference with reheating it - but I'm just inferring this - no real evidence.

HTH

I successfully wicked a 3" jar with ky pure soy and bw with an LX30 - so, it really should work with ky125 also. See http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1102308269;start= for pics. The one thing I should say, is using a thinner glass does help with the hangup. The glass heats up a bit more - I mention that because I know some of the tumblers can be pretty thick.

This is a Candlewic brand - so it should be fine.

http://cha.officialbuyersguide.net/Listing.asp?cid=77&page=1

I notice it comes in solid block so what's the procedure for adding? Cut off a piece, melt separately from soy wax, measure and add? Add when?...and a specific temp?

TIA

Get the pellet variety - don't mess with the blocks. No, you don't have to add separately - just measure it out and add with your soy and melt it. Your soy will need to go up to around 175 anyway for the FO and BW melts at around 145.

EDIT: Spelling

Those USA products prevent this too - and you can say that they are all soy - because I believe the USA is a soy derivative if I'm not mistaken (someone will correct me if I'm wrong - but I think I've read that on this board - think it was Top that said that). I've learned that it won't stop the frost totally in a dark candle after the melt pool sets up, and if you use the max amount it really causes the wax to pull away from the container.

The best black I have gotten in the past was with a dye called "pitch black" - BCN flakes, or the pitch black candle cocoon flakes - they do not seem to be the same product though. The BCN were more like "drops" (looked almost like black vybar to me), and the ones from cocoon actually looked like flakes. Both worked pretty good IMO.

HTH

Or - you could try something "less pronounced" like a fluted mold - not a star mold. (We are simply putting aside how hard it can be to get BW out of a tin mold at this point).

If it were me, and I were testing, I would pour two 3 or 3.5" high pillars and wick with a #4 and #5 square and see how they do. (I usually use a #4 in 3" diameters - but I use cosmetic grade, don't usually dye, and never put in FO). After the first burn (on subsequent burns) if you get sooting, make sure to trim so your wick is no more than 1/4".

Good luck!

wick 7/5 square braid

What does this mean? (I'm guessing you meant 3.5" width x 4.5" height on the size?).

CBA looks better, throws less, pulls away from glass, wicks easier so can single wick up to a 3" jar, can give deep melt pool if power burned, can pour hot (around 130F was better for me though), adding a few percent of stearic to avoid sink holes my be needed.

CB135 throws better, adheres better, needs about a size larger wick, needs no additives, but it looks like soy when it sets up (not like a soy/paraffin blend like CBA).

IMO of course.

Only if it flies directly into the flame and catches fire.

Actually, where birds are concerned, its not that simple - and its not just a soy vs. paraffin issue. Birds have extremely sensitive respiratory systems and people should take care of burning anything around them. Please see http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=display;num=1107998786;start= .

If any one wants real info about this - please go to an avian vet (not a general vet). But, like I said in that post - people are free to believe whatever they want.

HTH

Michaels craft stores have the cords. They carry them around the holidays in the xmas section.

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/home

Pat Catans have some pans - rust, white, zinc. (OH and PA).

http://www.patcatans.com/

Hi Janet - thanks for the compliment - I recently bought one of yours too - and have an idea how I'm going to use it - I'll post it too as I think it will come out really nice.