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Henryk

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Everything posted by Henryk

  1. Oh My God I really hope this works for you - as I'm afraid to ask what you paid for that. I was thinking of a cheese slicer myself - who knew they made one with a heating element and measuring grids! BTW, what the heck is that really used for ???? PS - are you sure the custom mold idea wouldn't have been cheaper?
  2. Hate to cause anyone to spend even more money - but I got the refresher oils with mine too. I have no idea how long potpourri lasts - hopefully to next season (I got all holiday scents). Does anyone know? Does it actually "go bad" or mold or something? (The potpourri I normally have gotten before this - locally - I just throw out after a season.)
  3. Wanted to say I got my stuff from SSW and I have never seen such nice potpourri. And the scents (which were really hard to choose from all of them) - are really upscale smelling - smells more like perfume than "simply FO". Shipping was extremely fast. Completely satisfied! Thanks for the referral!
  4. Oh - I was going to suggest CB Advanced too. As its very soft and seperates from the glass after it sets up but I wasn't sure what you are using as I noted you were in Germany. (Don't mean that to sound bad - just that maybe you were using waxes we don't have here). Good luck! You would think something this simple would be easy huh ?
  5. Oh, forgot - I tried doing one in the copper buff and glitter - way too dark. They look best with the plain gold against a dark background. (They REALLY look good with another candle burning next to them, or if burned in a grouping).
  6. Sorry it took so long to reply to this thread - been busy and wanted to get a pic of the new ones. These are actually cranberry, sage, and a cocoa-brown color - though on my monitor it doesn't look that way! The brown is actually my favorite. Yes, its from Mann Lake. Yes, its silicone. Its split 3/4 of the way and held together with rubber bands. Doing these colors really stained it too - reds especially stain them - I had to pour a couple white beeswax ones to get the bleeding to stop (paraffin did not work) - the mold is still stained inside, but it no longer bleeds. Chris - I do like the round one, but I don't like making globe-shaped or for that matter ANY novelty candles because the pillars burn so much better and I always make my candles to burn them above all else. Its a zen-thing! Kaybee23 - that other one in the picture, the tester - is now gone. It burned perfectly however! The only issue I noticed is that if you use too much of the gold buffing, it sort of keeps the wall from folding in on itself in those places. (If you notice, that is another reason why I only did the buffing on the raised portions on these, besides the aesthetic reasons). ED1 - no, I don't sell - I don't have insurance. These take way too long to make - it doesn't look like it I know, but to get that buff and glitter on this way on these three took me 2 hours to do - you have to dip in each and then apply at a right angle to the relief - its a pain. I actually got tired doing these - they could have been much better IMO.
  7. My first thought is what kind of wax are you using that you are getting a bunch of crumbs? Most container wax is pretty soft. I've only used a couple that were brittle (a mottling and a house blend), but if you can't cut it properly you may need to use a different blend. I'm thinking of all the soys I've used also - any of them could be cut. (First thing that comes to mind is refrigerate them to get it out, then let soften and cut). As far as the mechanics of cutting it properly the same time every time you may have to rig something up or maybe someone who is mechanically inclined can chime in. Sorry but I didn't suggest it to give you headaches, but if it were me (I'm an impatient sort), and if I was going to make money on it, I would look into just getting a mold custom done. I'm sure I've read of a couple places that do this. Janet from Creative Gems Molds is the first place that comes to mind. http://www.creativegemsmolds.com/store/view_doc.php?view_doc=1 Heck, you can even do it yourself: http://www.smooth-on.com/ .
  8. Here's two links to some pics: http://www.candletech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1438&d=1126743121 (Left, without, and right, with). http://www.candletech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1437&d=1126743007 (Both with) Try the additive C-15 first. Its also called gloss poly, or gloss crystals. It makes a BIG difference - giving the finish what you want. The above was at 2% - but the manufacturer says you can go to 4%. EDIT: Link to full thread http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4295 (I was trying to solve a different problem actually!) HTH
  9. Yes, this is correct. The wax would be far too cool to incorporate your FO at that point. Don't worry about reheating it back up the few degrees. It won't have any effect on the FO - at least it definitely does not have for me.
  10. Found out and just wanted to post that if you live in PA or OH there are these stores called Pat Catan's Craft Centers - they have them there too!
  11. Yes, thats what happened to me the first time too - set up almost solid - and it was just by sheer lazziness that I didn't reheat the whole thing back up to where it was clear. I think the air problem is completely avoided (problem posted here http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4547&highlight=tempering .) I never tried this back then because it seemed too much trouble. I don't think a lot of newbies realize how cool you can pour regular soy wax to get it to set up this way. I also used to pour at the "cough syrup" stage - but this way is MUCH better.
  12. Thanks very much everyone for ALL of the suggestions. Here is an update: Well, I tried one last single wick - a CD22 - every seems to be on a CD kick so I figured I'd give the largest one a try. (Did not try the large HEMP but am curious). Anyway, flame did this 90 degree dance thing and puffed - not good - pulled that and then I went through the responses here and hit the suggestion for dual 51Cs - figured I would try them first since I have a TON of them. What a difference (Thanks Rae)! Easy meltpool clear across in a couple of hours. Throw was out of this world - sickeningly strong actually. Jar wasn't too warm so far. Flames just sort of waved slowly - not bad at all. I'll keep burning this and see how it goes. From my initial experience it just seems that double wicking these jars is going to give such a better burn that trying to use a single "rope size" wick.
  13. I've been doing that with KY125 again now that my digital thermometer broke which used to beep when it cooled to 100F). I just go to pour them whenever its convenient. I've just let it almost set up almost completely in the pot, then reheat until I can scrape the sides and its at least stir-able again* - and just pour it in - sludge, chunks and all. Works great with uncolored - but you do have to watch the colors as you said - I've found reds to be really picky when going through this "procedure". * Mine was even thicker than this (definitely in the "chunky" stage): http://www.candlesoylutions.com/images/pouring2.JPG
  14. Do most of you pie makers bother with bottom crusts? Is so, does it depend on the size, "fruit", or if the top crust is fancy or not? Guess I'm asking, what is the "gel pie etiquette" in this regard? Thanks!
  15. Snapdragon2 - How does the SPP compare to the PCC ? I really like the PPC, but would consider the SPP if its real similar. I have both SPP and Pumpkin Pie from KY and they are really different IMO. ah-soy - please post back if you can on this. I REALLY like the scent of PCC, I just have to remember to be careful when filling my containers that none of the stuff at the bottom of pour pot gets in there.
  16. I've been using IGI 1260 with a bit of paraflint. Teri, isn't the KY143 kind of opaque though since it has additives (I assume vybar) in it already?
  17. Using metal molds (aluminum or tin) for bw is just a pain - like you are finding out. If you want to continue, use a silicone spray - not vegetable spray - that stuff is just melting right off into the wax - silicone won't as its heat stable to 405F. Any home/hardware store should have it. IMO, its best to use silicone molds with bw - I don't use any mold release with mine - even when using bw. HTH
  18. Thanks very much for fixing my pic Eugenia - how the heck do you guys get your in-line images to just show up big like that? (Every time I post a pic it comes in as a thumbnail, then you have to click it.) Also thanks everyone for the nice comments. The other ones I only "blinged" the ferns. I just wanted to see what one would look like with an all-over type of thing as this one was only going to be my test burner anyway so I snapped the pic (I've always done 3" BW pillars, but this was new to me at 2.5").
  19. Ooops sorry - didn't mean for you to take it that way. If you've been there you know how much glassware they have - its a shame they don't have it all on their site for people who don't know. :highfive:
  20. There are drawbacks (scent throw, not to mention safety) to using EOs in candles, but if you still want to pursue it, one of the best places IMO is essentialoils.org. He really knows his stuff, and you can buy in different "grades" (locations).
  21. Sharon, perhaps you mistyped, but KY125 does have cottonseed oil in it also, and therefore, it will make it easier to burn that 100% soy.
  22. I'm not a big gallery poster, but I said I would post these when I got around to doing them. They are all beeswax, and I'm also doing them in brown and cranberry. The glitter is gold in this one, but for the other colors I may do them in copper. (Sorry the pic is not good - maybe Mrs. Santa will get me a better camera for Christmas!)
  23. One more question on this subject. Will you have more problems with the walls sagging out with a low meltpoint wax? Hope I'm explaining this right, some people posted pics of 1343 and other higher meltpoint waxes, when the flame gets a couple inches down into the candle, the walls kind of bow out. Just wondering if its worse with lower melt waxes - or is this problem and its fix really dependant upon the additives and/or wicking? Thanks.
  24. Just wanted to thank everyone for the replies!
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