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lmc

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Posts posted by lmc

  1. I'm still testing wicks with the 464...but I'm with the previous posts-ECO's are not my first or second choice with this wax. Call or email WickIt, they will send you out a very generous supply of different series wicks for only a $5 shipping charge. Your jar is too large for the ECO 14 and you probably will be disappointed by the burn and ht of it. SimpleScents is right about lower pouring temps for the 464 as well, the tops are smoother-I always got sink holes around wick with higher pouring temps. I can't help you with dye because I've chosen to work with this wax au naturale ; )...don't like frosting!

  2. Hi, the previous 2 posts are dead on...I've been working with 464 and it's a PITA to wick, but CD's do work much better than ECO's (you can get sample packs from WickIt for shpng only) as I've recently found out thanks to Stella and cure time is SO important. I do not test for scent throw until at least a 5 day cure time. CandleScience fo's never disappoint me-Hazelnut Coffee, Pumkin Souffle, Mistletoe are all standouts for me among many others. It's very rare to get any scent throw at all after only a 24 hr cure time...keep trying-it's worth it when you make that 1st good candle :yay:

  3. Thanks everyone, your input is invaluable and encouraging :smiley2: I do want to mention that I did find the near perfect formula for CBA and am quite satisfied with the looks and ct/ht. However I am now trying to make a "green" candle using only earthy scents with no dye-hence debating between the 415 and 444 for ht only. 464 has and still is being a PITA to wick-more testers being poured tomorrow :cry2: GB seems to be more readily available and affordable than most...again thanks!

  4. Thanks for the advice...I was going to try CO to improve ht but I guess it's used more for smoother tops, etc. I let candles cure for a week and use mostly CS fo's-really like them. I'm experimenting with 464-I use CBA as well, love the looks-ht could be stronger. I have tried 100% soy candles from a mother/daughter team north of here that make great smelling candles but cannot duplicate their strong ht with CBA or 464-wondering if the 444 or all soy 415 would be better for ht...gotta love the testing! (I do not use dye for 464 only CBA)

  5. Hmm...ok I will try that...I was reading on an older thread about CO where numerous people had commented that CO would help with ht...I will try your suggestion first. I don't use dye with 464 because for now I'm still trying to figure out the wicking situation. I know tempering (tempuring lol) really helps with frosting issue but I'm not going to concern myself with that-one thing at a time:tongue2: Personal opinion anyone?...If I decide not to use dye-would I get better ht with GB 415, 444, or 464? These waxes seem readily available at a reasonable price...

  6. Stella, I burned it to the end-was testing 5 completely different wicks and liked the CD18 but only ever got to a 1/4" deep mp even after a 4 hour burn...CBA is SO much easier to deal with but I want a stronger ht and 464 is more affordable. From previous threads from you and others I've gathered that CDN burns slightly hotter than a same sized CD wick so that's why I thought maybe the CDN18 would be just right :confused: The ht was ok-I know it could be better tho...I'm also going to try 1/2 tsp of CO to see if that helps too. I use 464, 8.5% fo load, 16 oz canning jar and cure for 5-7 days before testing. Thanks once again for the help everyone

  7. So I ordered a huge sample pack from WickIt (thanks WickIt!), and I'm still trying to wick my 3.2" 16 oz canning jars using 464...The CD18 is not quite hot enough but from the research I've done it appears CDN's burn slightly hotter so would the CDN 18 be the next to try or CDN20? Reason I ask is WickIt only sent CD18's the rest were their Premier 700,800, and 900 series...thanks!

  8. I've noticed on the few occassions that I've had to remelt some of the candles (using 464), that the frost was completely emliminated. So if I were to tempur the wax from now on to avoid frost in the colored candles do I...1) melt wax, then cool to slushy, then remelt and add dye and fo or 2) melt wax, add dye and fo, cool, then remelt? I'm thinking #1 to avoid losing fo am I right or will adding dye after 2nd melt reproduce the frosting?

  9. Thanks for the suggestions...I'll order some CD's to try also...I wanted to give 464 a try and I can see this wax is going to take some time. Looks great when you tempur it but time consuming and I really like the look with colored candles so I'll just play around with this for awhile and see what I can come up with as far as the frosting goes. As I mentioned in earlier posts, I'm spoiled with the beautiful look of my candles using CBA and I've finally found a supplier whose FO's work really well and I'm happy with the ct and ht. The 464 is quite a bit more affordable but I cannot get it to perform (look) consistent-varies from fo to pour temp to wick etc...Now if only the CBA could get away with using a lower% of fo...Yeah, nothings that easy :rolleyes2

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