rjdaines

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, this will keep me busy for a while.

That was one of the ones I tested in 464 and CB-A at 6% and got poor HT, let me know how it does in 415.

I've tried 3 different Pine FO in GW464 and have gotten nothing in the way of HT, does someone know of a pine fragrance that works for them in 464 or some other soy wax? Thanks

These sound cool, anyone want to post a few pictures?

I use one that I get from Peaks, haven't tried others some I can't compare. What I can say is that it has a great HT in GW464.

Hopefully you have some 1212 and 1313 wicks, the 126 is a big one. Check the stats on the 126, it is significantly hotter and bigger (flame) than the 105.

Absolutely, especially if you have hard water, works the same with you water heater too. A water softener is a wonderful but distilled water should work fine.

I convert everything to grams and work from there, very easy to do the math then, just make sure your scale reads grams.

I am testing both 444 and 464 and other than melting point, I think they are equivalent in terms of FO throw. That said, testing and retesting is always a great idea. For me, adding between 10% and 15% 444 to 464 fixed the hot weather melt problem, I don't think i need to completely switch to 444. Another advantage is that for my double wicked apothecary jars I use CD-5 wicks which produce an adequate flame (melt pool is fine), adding in 444 I can now use CD-6 wicks which IMHO make a nicer flame and the same sized melt pool.

Saw some candles at a craft show where the container was a dried, hollowed-out gourd. Not sure how hard it would me to ignite the gourd shell but it does come under the category of flammable.

Glad to hear that you like a challenge because that is soy wax's middle name I think. If I was just making candles for my self all of these issues (frosting, wet spots, FO throw) would not be a problem but it seems that many of us want to sell too and that leads to the search for the perfect product. Seems that many here are at that point but us newbies need to pay our dues and get to soy heaven on our own path. My pillars are either palm or paraffin. The Eco-Soya PB wax, for me, makes great votives but lousy pillars. If I want to spend months working out a system of wicks for it I might be successful but I don't have the time or the desire to do that. I like the looks of paraffin pillars and there are a lot of FO choices that work with it. As for palm, I am just starting to work with that.

For container I use soy or a soy/paraffin blend, there are lots of choices out there. I know there are plenty of palm users here but I don't see a that of choices (blends) and some suppliers have stopped carrying it. That said, I am experimenting with it for pillars along with Eco-Soya PB and IGI-4625 (paraffin). It's easy to get distracted and want to try everything but that just dilutes one's efforts and little progress is made. I can't make a specific recommendation about which soy wax for you to get, there are so many and none appear to be perfect. I have the following: GW: 444, 464; Eco-Soya: CB-Advanced. I work mainly with GW-464.

Yep, I use that chart and it is a good starting point, you're particular wax and additives will effect whether you need to wick up or down from those suggestions.

Welcome to the wonderful world of soy wax and soy candles. There are many kinds of soy wax available so don't judge all of them by the one you are using. Unfortunately, soy wax does have a tendency to frost and one has to manage it with their "system" Cracks and sink holes are the result of the cooling process and can also be managed, for me that is a hotter pout temp. There are other factors too that you did not mention, such as the hot throw/fragrance compatibility issue which you will, no doubt, experience at some point. Soy can be discouraging and I am glad that I also work with paraffin blends. Best advise is the research this forum and avoid reinventing the wheel if possible.

If I understand correctly what you are doing, I am doing a similar thing but with GW464 and IGI 6006 (para/soy blend) with a final mix of 80/20 and yes, I can use the same wick and wick sizes as I do with just plain 464. In this case, I am using CD wicks. I used to like HPTs with soy but that was CD-Advanced, they don't seem to work as well in the 464, hence the wick change.

Can you describe the container and wax you are using, that might help in making some wick suggestions. I found that wicking up in a soy wax (3 inch diameter) with HTP just led to getting larger and larger mushroom wicks as I was trying to get a full melt pool. At some diameter, double wicking is a better choice.

Yes, that is true, that bit me in the butt a few times. If you have tried 104 and 105 and still need to wick up, move to the 1212. HTP126 is your last choice.

Apparently cats eat wax too, found a hole chewed in my 11 pound bag if coconut wax.

I guess heating the jar could slow the cooling time but, honestly, pouring at 160 the jars got so hot I can't comfortably touch them. Slower cooling does seem to help frosting as I see it appear at the bottom sooner than the sides. That said, everything can look great and then the following week, wham, there it is and it progresses all around the container given enough time. For now I'll take the better tops that I get at 160 pours and see if the frosting goes away when the humidity drops and also consider no dye. As one poster said in the archives about frosting, once you start burning the candle the frosting appears too.

I thought cat hair was the secret ingredient for eliminating frosting? Now what am I going to do with the cat I bought?

Good reasons why I don't wash my truck often.

I have had little frosting issues with 464 until recently, my process has stayed the same but the major change is the weather. The house thermostat is set the same, so it is not the temp but what is different is the humidity. We entered Monsoon season here in AZ about 4 weeks ago and the interior humidity has gone from 29% to 50% and my frosting has gone from minimal to ghastly. Just when I think I have a system read to use, something ugly pops up. Yes, I use dye and would like to keep using it but the frosting is just a killer. So what now, two product lines; one all soy and no dye and another para/soy with colour?

Is 415 really that much better that 464? (sigh) What's another 10 pounds of a new wax to try... I pour 464 at 160 to 170, almost never get bad tops, don't know whether this hurts or help the frosting issue but I don't get much.

It takes color well if you like pastels, I have not been able to use it for pillars but it makes nice votives. HT is also good. I don't recall any problems with cracking.

GW 464 does not frost much in my hands and I get nice tops, I was finding that in the AZ heat the melt pool was getting deeper than when I first started so addine some 444 tamed that somewhat. No ill effects on frosting or tops ether. Throw seemed unaffected too. Color addition is not a problem if you want pastels. I usually add between 1 to 2 drops of Peaks liquid dye. Frosting occasionally shows in patches and wet spots do occur. 415 would not appeal to me if I could not add color.