amyrose2712

Thanks to everyone that responded. I called CS and they were not helpful and seemed uninterested. I was thinking that that damage could have occurred in transfer. I gave them to her over Christmas and they were put in bags with other things. I guess that is why everyone says to GET INSURANCE before selling candle #1.

No, brand new glass.

Hello. I'm freaking out a little over here. One of the people that help me to test the scent of my candles had one of them on a candle warmer and the glass broke. Wax got everywhere. The jars I use are from CS so they are supposed to be made to use for candles. Any idea why this happened. During testing I have tortured them to absolute death and never had this happen. Is the glass not suitable for candle warmers? This is really discouraging and I am not sure if I should just give up because of the risks involved. :cry2::cry2:It is making me nervous.

I mean, every supplier is different. Every order different cause of different wights and distance. I was just wondering if there is something I am missing, like it cost such and such per mile or such and such per pound. Any clue? Thanks.

Again, I feel better. THANKS!

Me....over thinking!!?? NEVAH! HAHAHA:laugh2: Tis the story of my life. Been over thinking a name for a year now. Anyway, thanks for that. I don't mind the film and people I have shared the candles with don't seems to mind. I have only had one complaint and that had to do with trouble lighting cause that jar was too tall. YAY. I feel much better now. I am still curious if there is a ROC I should be striving to reach. Thanks.

Yes, mine you can see through and a lot of the glass is clear, the picture was in the long thread regarding wicking 4" containers.

I thought it would be the 16 oz apoth. And have spent a little over a year(with a break) trying to perfect this size. And now I am not so sure. I originally started with the jelly and canning jars 8oa but I thought they didn't look classy or nice enough, but as I look around online I see they seem to be popular. Ugh. Im so indecisive. I really starting with way too many FO WICKS AND SIZE. I hate to go back to square one. I am also reading that people wont use the CBA becuase the HT "sucks" I have found with most FO I have tried the, if I get the right wick, usually HTP126 or LX26 in the 4" Apoth. that the HT is great. But I have not really tried other waxes. Well, I tried CS135 and GB464 and HATED the look, didn't really even test most of them for HT cause of how terrible they looked, but that was in the very beginning. Now I am having second thoughts( and 3rd and 4th and 5th ) I welcome any responses here but mostly I just needed to rant.

Sorry posted in the wrong spot.

Using CB Advanced w/6-9% depending on the FO. and HTP or LX wicks. Although, that shouldn't matter if there is an ideal ROC. Also, I saw a picture posted of a finished candle and all that was left was a slight film and some still did not consider this a well made candle. I honestly can't say I have ever burned a candle that didn't have a least a slight film. Can I see a picture of what a candle is "supposed" to look like when it is burned? I almost stopped in my tracks when I saw that. I have been thinking I was finally getting my 16 oz apoths with a nice clean burn with a slight film, then only to read that it is NOT. UGH. I really should have started with a smalled container.

D'oh...as my mommy always says "if it had teeth it would have bit me" Thanks

I see some are pinkish and some are blue. Some seem stuffed with letters and some closed.

Glad to be here. You were always a big help. LOVE YOUR SIG LINE!

I had to stop making candles for a spell and now I am back. But I am on a different computer and could not find my links to this site and I had forgot the name. So I began searching and found forum that I had previously posted on and thought it was the site I had been using. I just now found this site again and realized it was HERE that I had been posting last year and HERE that I had found enormous amount of information and advice. I am so happy to be back in the correct place. YIPPIE!:yay:

No, Still adds over $50. Oh well. Looks like I am taking a ride to North Jersey.

Yea, they are out of my wax too, Ecosoya Advanced. I live in southern NJ and I know a supplier in N. NJ that carries it, but am I hearing this correctly if I order more than 1 50lb case the shipping is reasonable? It seems steep when I order one.

I use a wire hanger that I have bent and twisted to fit in my hand perfectly. Anything else feels "off". Weird how we get used to things. I love this site. So many ideas here.:yay:

No biggie, but I don't even see that posted anywhere?

Thank you to all that answered. I am still working on this. And will continue to test. Believe me, I am one that believes strongly in testing and retesting and being able to produce repeatable results. My educational background is in Environmental Science therefore I have spent quite a bit of time in the lab. I could test forever, its the fun part for me. I have read the NGI page before but I looked at it again and saw a few things that may help. It does say to try to encourage the CBA to pull away from the glass. How do I encourage this? I have been doing everything to stop it. Again, the HT is excellent, so I'm not quite sure what to do. I have tried the ECO-135, Exel, and GB464 and thought that the HT and appearance of the CBA, so I am not sure what to change. Also, I have tried a number of different wicks, mostly following CandleScience's wick recs as a starting point. Also, that is where I purchase most of my FO since they claim to test them in soy. Anyway, I suppose I will first try to wick up. I, like EricofAZ, was thinking that if the glass was clean it would get too hot. I have actually not experienced that except for the with the cheaper pressed apothecary jars. I now use different jars and that doesn't seem to be an issue. If up-wicking doesn't help I suppose the next step is trying a different type of wick again. I read this site everyday and learn something new every time. Thanks.

Yea! Thanks for going easy on me, then. But ANYWAY, I did ask for opinions. I was very hesitant to post these pics because I didnt like how they looked. Hence the need to ask the question. What I said I liked was the luminary effect that comes from the flame behind the wax. I HATE the messy way the wax stay on the jar. Again, why I asked. But, seriously, thanks for at least responding. But I take even constructive criticism to heart cause I am kind of a baby. :embarasse*hiding*But I am glad I ask here because the BF keeps saying "would you sell them already" and I am like "But I am still TESTING!"

@Stella- Thank you for your help. I always start with 6%. And it is only these few FO that I am having trouble with. I was getting excellent adhesion in the warmer months but since the weather changed. I am using LX 26 and HTP 1212. Also, I have tried the Excel and I just hated the look. I really like the CBA. So far the only problem I am having is the hangup and adhesion. The HT is AWESOME. But I will try upping the wicks. And lowering the load. The reason I had that range is because I had a number of different scents. But I always start at 6%. I am also thinking the adhesion problems are from dirty glass. Thanks again for the help. Here is how they usually look before burning. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/krdYvrgPBWQdOqgSI_Vnp02GLfaNCV2I1gR_VU-KK9A?feat=directlink Is the FO load causing the mushrooming? This is a LX 26 with 9%. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qukhrNT-XJIJdTIDyh4gtU2GLfaNCV2I1gR_VU-KK9A?feat=directlink And believe me I am testing and testing and will continue testing.

Wow. Snippy. That is why I was asking. I thought that it may be a bit too much. I am still testing. But thanks for the input. Most of my candles so far DON'T have any hangup. Only these. Oye.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tmtcbBYVc8qHPs5FZG3ME02GLfaNCV2I1gR_VU-KK9A?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1FslVN8aONcotstEs7xxUk2GLfaNCV2I1gR_VU-KK9A?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U1UozHvC-tk4sUqBnI0MDE2GLfaNCV2I1gR_VU-KK9A?feat=directlink I don't like how messy they look after burning either. If I am under wicking, I will have to learn to double wick these or try another line of wicks. TEST!TEST!TESTE I am using: Ecosoya Advanced- 16 oz apothecary with a 4" diameter-Reddig-Glo Dye chips- 6%-10% FO Load Pour Temp- 115-125F Room Temp- 68-70 F Anything else you need to know please let me know. Also I still am not sure how to adjust for temperature changes overnight . We set the thermostat on 66 at night. Usually I like to keep the house around 70-74 for candle making, but I just cant do that in the winter. I don't know if I should pour hotter. I seem to be getting more frosting and air bubbles, that cause sinking in these temps. Thanks for all your help. I think I read something you wrote before (wonderful Stella) about the wax catching up and sliding down. Basically that is the effect I was wanting to achieve with the luminary glow then when the flame gets lower and there is a larger area for heat, then the wax that was "hanging up" slides down and disappears. I hope you are understanding what I am attempting to explain. I am so very bad at expressing myself.

I may be exaggerating the amount of hangup. By the time the candle reaches the bottom most of the wax is gone. I will try to send a pic of a number of different candles. I'm not so sure that they are under wicked. If the wax is completely gone by the middle of the candle(complete MP the entire diameter) then, too me it seems that the flame is usually too big and makes the glass a little warmer than I like. I dont know maybe you are right. These are pretty big jars.

I am trying to decide just how much hang up is acceptable. I have noticed that I like when the wax is about .75-1.0" above the wick at about 1/16-1/8" thickness. It makes a nice glow, as opposed to when the wax is completely gone and you can see the full flame. But what I am wondering is what do more people prefer? I am having a difficult time describing this, I hope someone understands, lol Thanks!