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naomiheck

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Everything posted by naomiheck

  1. In general, I'm finding that the HTPs don't mushroom as much, but I still like the CDs and CDNs for certain candles. I especially like the HTPs for my 8 oz tins. I recently started making 3 identical candles to test burn side by side, each with one type of wick so I can vary the size if needed. I was getting carried away and switching wick types in the same test candle to save wax. I was going in circles and questioning my results. It really helps to observe the different wick types burning simultaneously. (OK, I admit, sometimes I just stand there mesmerized watching them burn, like it's the most fascinating thing I've ever seen santalol ). Naomi
  2. No problem, Carole. I'm glad you mentioned it, because I've never heard of wax catching on fire (it doesn't make sense, but I guess anything that gets hot enough will burn). So much can go wrong with candles. I'm on the fence about eventually selling even though I've had several people ask me when I'm going to. Having insurance still won't keep me from feeling awful if something goes wrong. I often wonder how many times the big companies like Y**nkee have gotten in trouble because of candles gone wrong? Naomi
  3. CDs and sometimes HTP's have worked well for me in straight 464. I would think the CDN's may be good too. I'm just starting to test them in a blend that's mostly 464, and it's going well. Naomi
  4. Hi. Original poster of the thread here. :smiley2: I like the idea of 3 test candles with 3 different wicks, and I did just that last night with some jelly jars. Actually for 3 different wick types, though (HTP, CD, and CDN). But I forgot to make a little extra for half jar testing as well. Actually, the way I was thinking, the partial pour test would add extra work rather than be a shortcut because I would never be satisfied with a candle that wasn't tested from start to finish several times (power burning included). I've had several friends who have lost all their possessions by a house fire (not candle related, though), and have seen their suffering. I've been randomly buying candles made by others (my husband thinks I'm crazy because of all my candles lying around the house), and they all seem like torches at the top. I haven't burned them all the way down yet (too busy with my own testing), but I wonder if they've been thoroughly tested, or if they were meant to be that way and will be fine further down. I am in the process of testing a double wicked 16 oz apothecary (creme brulee and Peak's C wicks), and it was burning great the first half. Then for 2 burns halfway down, the flames were really small - one was a quarter inch and the other was so tiny I thought for sure it would drown. But it didn't. The melt pool was about 90% full after 3 hours. Then the next time I burned it, the flame was better (back to about 1/3 inch). Maybe a "black hole" of no oxygen? I'm not sure what to make of this, and whether this is acceptable. I planning on remaking this and testing again. I'm afraid to wick up because I don't want the jar to get any hotter. Anyone else have this happen? Naomi
  5. I, too bought this for the great reviews, but found that after a few burns it starts smelling nasty. It's even worse when I put the jar lid on a cold burnt candle and open it up a week or 2 later. Yuck! I used to like this FO but now I can't stand it. :lipsrseal All the ECO's made it smell toasted. With an 8 oz square mason I used a CD10 which worked okay. I'll have to try it mixed with cinnamon, since I have alot of FO left. Naomi
  6. I was thinking (that can be dangerous), since container candles burn quite differently at the beginning compared to further down, would it be helpful to initially pour the container only 1/3 or 1/2 full and start testing there? Then if the wick is appropriate, then pour a new full container to make sure the wick isn't a torch at the top? It's just so disappointing to have a candle burning well for the top half, only to find the wick drowns or the container gets too hot after all those days and hours of burning. Does anyone do this? Naomi
  7. Accckk, I spoke too soon. Doing side by side testing with CD's, CDN's, and HTP's, some wax/FO combo's do better with one wick type (not necessarily always CDNs) than another. Glad I didn't get rid of my other wicks prematurely. Crap! I still have to test everything from square zero. Naomi
  8. Thanks for the explanation, Top. That helps me a lot in my decision to wick up, down, or hold for the time being. I am usually in too big a hurry to change the wick after the first burn or 2. Naomi
  9. I need input from the pros. I think I've been doing this wrong. I use a popsicle stick that I marked in 1/4 inch increments, and when I blow out the test candle, I stick it in until it stops to measure the depth of melted wax. However, if I look at the candle from the side, the depth of the clear melted wax is less (by a 1/4 inch or more). So which is the correct depth measurement? Thanks. Naomi
  10. That sounds promising, Jennyjo. I need more wax like I need a hole in the head, but I just placed a small order with KY. :tiptoe: I can't wait to compare notes. Naomi
  11. I've used the Amish Harvest and Spruce Christmas Tree in 464 at 1.0 oz. pp in 8 oz jj's and it's plenty strong at 2 weeks. I use CD 8 wicks, no dyes. Could it be your wick is burning off the fragrance too quickly? I add FO at around 180 and pour at 150. I would think at 1.5 oz. pp it would be super strong. Of course I haven't burned a Yankee Candle in several years (my pre-candlemaking days) so my definition of strong could very well be your definition of weak. Are you comparing to 8 oz containers of Yankee? Naomi
  12. I am in the process of comparing CD's and CDN's, and I'm finding what Top says to be true. I use my own parasoy blend. In some candles, CD's do better (less mushrooming), and in others, the CDN's do better. Drives me crazy that every candle is different! Naomi
  13. Thanks Jennyjo. I'd love to hear how the KY parasoy performs. I'm testing more candles I recently made with the Victory Blend, and they are all torches! I can't believe a wax company like IGI would put out a wax that is this difficult. I'm sure they would do extensive testing before putting it on the market, wouldn't they??? I just looked on KY's website and they tested their parasoy with HTP's and zinc. I'm going to do some more testing before I give up on Victory Blend completely. I'm a glutton for punishment. Naomi
  14. Please keep those pictures coming.:smiley2: This has been a good learning experience for me and I'm sure for others, too. It's one thing to read about how a candle performs, but it is far more helpful to actually see it and get feedback from the experts. Thanks for starting this thread! Naomi
  15. I found that there was hardly any cold throw using the SP wax after curing 2 weeks, compared to GB464 that I was already using. The hot throw wasn't any better, either. I was really perplexed because of the rave reviews for the SP wax on WSP's website. I like a 30/70 or 25/75 blend of SP/464. Nice smooth look, no hidden sink holes around the wick in this cooler weather, and I still get a decent scent throw. Naomi
  16. Uh, oh. Looks like I may have to "blend the blend" like I ended up doing with WSP's SP wax. At least I have almost a case of 464 that I can blend with. I just wish I could find a premade parasoy that I like. Naomi
  17. I have found that a little OCD can be a good thing when testing, as long as your family doesn't depend on you to cook, clean, buy groceries, work outside the home, or anything else for that matter. Naomi
  18. I just starting to test the Victory Blend, and am having problems. I think it has more paraffin than my usual 30/70 WSP SP wax/GB 464 blend that I've been playing with. I usually use CD wicks (and just started testing CDNs). I tried a CD8 in an 8 oz jelly jar with 6% Vanilla Voodoo, and the flame is 1 inch tall. Should I switch wick types due to the higher paraffin? I have HTPs, zincs, RRDs, and a few LX's. What size should I start out with? Thanks.
  19. I'm a convert to CDN's now. I just got some it last week (from Candle Cocoon), and prelimary tests are showing that they don't mushroom as much as the CD's, and the flame is more stable (less flicker). I wish more suppliers carried them, but I'm willing to pay extra shipping for such good wicks! Now, what to do with all the other wicks??
  20. I love the company, but I'm with dnj when it comes to those wicks and soy waxes. I've only been frustrated with the wicks, and keep going back to CDs and HTPs. Naomi
  21. Has anyone tried and actually liked this wax? I did a search and got a bunch of threads asking about it or mentioning it, but no actual feedback on testing. Naomi
  22. Thanks for your replies. I will go with the 1 oz pp. I figure if I can't smell it after curing, it won't be worth pursuing. I'd really like to build up a collection of FO's that are great at 1 oz pp in soy (like Peak's Amish Harvest and CS Pumpkin Souffle). Naomi
  23. I use that wax but pour into clamshells and have no problem. Have you tried cooling your votives in a pre-warmed oven (turned off)? Naomi
  24. I was just at the Dollar Tree this afternoon, saw the same mugs, and my first thought was "candles!". I wonder how the glass would hold up to the heat? I love the look of your candle. Very elegant! What wax did you use? Naomi
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