radellaf

Soy- cool about the timing. Yeah, never seen a homemade oil lamp like that, but it would give you a lot of creative leeway. The wicks "just work", unlike in the regular candle world. I've bought quite a few commercial oil candles over they years. Most recently these from Northwest Glass. Think the last one before that was one of those "flaming rocks" from a tourist shop in the NC mountains. Top - I did see that BCN is carrying a gallon of unnamed, unspecified weight oil for $12. That's pretty reasonable. Little less than chemistrystore.com. Most non-wholesale sources don't say anything about the weight of the oil. Noticed that problem with micro wax, too. The more "crafty" the store, typically the less info as to what it is you're actually buying. IGI site? 6 or more types of micro wax, lots of info, can't buy directly. Other sites, one or two types, sometimes with a useful designation, sometimes not. Gotcha on the bleeding. Tried a little at 50/50 and it didn't bleed, but was still solid at room temp. Won't be using it in wax after today, though. It's fine on an oil candle wick, but I really haven't enjoyed the "hot throw" of a melt pool of the stuff Either C14 stinks, or there's enough of some smaller molecules in there. Fun experiment, tho. Oh, and as for flashpoint, to end the night: Note, that effect has happened to me when not expected or intended. Ordinary tealights in enclosed holders can end up doing the same thing. Hence, I guess, the "never burn unattended" advice.

Well, here's a poured votive with 10% ultra pure to 90% IGI 1274. It mottled, but isn't bleeding, which 10% FO certainly would have. It is adhering to the container and burning fine with an LX-12. The oil does have a very slight odor, probably because it's only "99.x%" pure. I am burning it carefully, outside, in a holder that would be OK if I had a wax fire. I'm not sure what the fact that it's not bleeding out means. Is it like an FO or mineral oil, with a maximum the wax can "hold", or is it essentially another wax that I could blend in 50/50, if I wanted very runny wax? The MSDS did say the freezing point (same as MP, I think) is 47F. Averaging, that'd make the mix ~130mp. Which, is more or less what it is acting like, but I know it's not that simple. Safety aside, though, while I might consider 2% or so in an attempt to make an unscented candle mottle, the aroma, at the very least, makes it a failure at converting 1274 to an ersatz "container blend". I think it's a little _too_ light of an oil. For mottling, though, from what I've read here the drugstore mineral oil clouds up the wax. This "oil" has made it opaque, too. I can see how Penreco manages to sell overpriced mineral oil as Parol Oil, since I assume they have the weight of it just right. Haven't found any particularly cheap sources of "pure" mineral oil on the web. $12/lb for "Drakeol 34", which is more than genwax charges for parol.

Probably unwise to use it anyway, but I found out what the substance actually is: http://www.nafaa.org/ultra-pure.pdf LINPAR 1416-V NORMAL PARAFFIN, Mixture of Tetradecane, Pentadecane, and Hexadecane. EINECS # 265-233-4 C14-C16 Paraffins 90622-46-1 FLASH POINT / METHOD: 250°F (121° C) / PM AUTOIGNITION TEMPERATURE: 420°F (216° C) Which, does establish that the FP of it is higher than the typical FO.

My nose agrees Nice Ginger peach scent, no oil bleeding. Acts like wax, looks like plastic. Not what I intended, but it'll have its place. Didn't think PE came in more than one molecular weight. I did work for a polymer chemistry company, but was just designing electronic sensors around the chemicals so didn't pick up much chemisty. Know there was a jar on the shelf labeled "polyethylene", so figured that's the only way it came.

PITA -- Wish the names for this stuff were more standard. Just ordered 8oz ea of the clear and translucent from candlechem, both of which say they preserve translucency so at least one should 1274 is pretty translucent as is, but I want to see how many different looks I can get out of it. FWIW I'm surprised you can burn polyethylene, but I guess used like this it burns (more) completely rather than what happens when you just light plastic on fire.

I think these are Luster Crystals. I have an opaque, shiny pink candle, vs. the same wax with 2% stearic instead making a nice red mottled one.

-----

I'm looking for Paraflint or FT wax, which I think is also known as "Translucent Crystals" or maybe "Clear Crystals". As opposed to polyethylene (Epolene) crystals sold by Candlewic as Gloss Poly C-15. These are from a 4 oz bag from AC Moore and called Translucent Crystals. They weren't Yaley brand, but something else, and on the back of the tag it actually said "Candlewic". They are, however, making my 1274 paraffin completely OPAQUE, used at 0.5% (.7g to 140g wax). Any idea what I've got here?

I measured my two types of stearic, and 1 TBS is either 7.6 or 8.1g, so either way you're recommending about what I've been using, 2%. 1% didn't do much of anything, and at 3% I need to move up a wick size for the same burn. Hardening it enough to help with the bulge took 7% and, yes, it's beginning to become an opaque pillar rather than a mottled one at that level. 10% killed mottling completely. Even if more FO would make it mottle, the base color has become opaque enough it wouldn't much matter. However, with 0-2% stearic, I can't get more than about 1/2oz oil in there, and it is still prone to bulging. Not always, but a bit touchy. I'll assume from what you and others have said, that there are FOs out there that it'll take a ounce of. I'll be doing a lot of testing, so if any are really dry at 3% (1/2oz) I'll try a bit more.

My own observations, from much less than 40+ years of container burning... I get less soot with Soy, but that's been entirely because no matter how I (or the commercial company) wick, I get 1/4-1/2" flames out of Soy (GB464, or CBA wax with CSN, LX, or ECO) even after first lighting. _May_be_ at the very bottom the flame with get enthusiastic enough to flicker and throw a wee bit of soot. I guess that's fine if it's the nature of soy, but I may be unusual in that I want a significant amount of _light_ from all my candles. If my soy had the 3/4"-1&1/4" flame height (flickering) I get from paraffin (4630, HTP or LX), then I'd bet I'd get just as much soot. Initial lighting is the worst, if I don't trim it short, pillar or container unless using LX-14 or smaller. Last inch of wax also gives the highest, flickering flame. Commercial paraffin 16-20oz jars soot unless I use candle cappers. Then, if I trim before lighting, no probs.

I'd love to standardise on something with a little higher MP, though a search through google shows that 1302 was Astorlite M38, and I can't even find data for it. But, with shipping costing as much as the wax for any other mottling blend, then unless I simply cannot get good results from 1274, I need to figure out how best to use it. It works quite well for the most part, even with no additives I get perfect 3" pillars with 3% and LX-18 that have barely a bulge. But, scent throw and hardness, as well as control of amount of mottling, are going to take some work. I tried 1% translucent crystals and 2% stearic and 3% lavender FO (left over mix) and got totally opaque wax. I guess leave the stearic out. Made a nicely burning votive with LX-10, though. Two goals: Fully mottled, less bulge, more scent (throw, not necessarily FO amount) and later: Partial mottle and/or "glow candle" translucency with no mottle.

About 2 hrs into a 3rd burn, 1st two were 6-8 hrs. I'd call this a success. I know some would prefer a shorter wall, but I prefer it to be around an inch high. Makes the candle glow more, and it's less likely to spill if moved.

I think I'll make the best I can of 1274, and it does seem like decent material for full mottles, but for bulging in some (most?) situations. Not as bad as 1343 though. I looked at the shipping on 1218 and Candlewic, and I'd be paying almost double vs. being able to pick up locally. What could work is getting a slab of something like 1260 and using it to raise the MP, but given the price I'm happy enough with results so far. I'm even getting no-drip tapers with LX-12 and 2% stearic 1274 in the 1/2"x4" "spell candle) size. Cheap fun will be trying tiny amounts of Vybar 103.

Thanks much. I haven't been at this at all long compared to the veterans on the board, but I think I have the basics in hand, and I love to experiment with different configurations. Yes, Partylite... money sink extraordinaire. Used to "hostess" (oh, the gender stereotyping) just to get the specials <rolls eyes>. Overpriced, but they did have some nice stuff. I had one of those big 3 wicks, in Pumpkin Spice I think. The stand was really nice: Unfortunately the glass broke, and they don't sell replacements. Well, for $70+ you can get either the whole stand or the glass on eBay. Saw your mulberry one on there, too, for $56. One reason I'm glad I'm learning this craft Though, (6x8") that's almost 7 lbs of wax, so with the mold and FO costs... about $40 to make the first one.

Thanks. Had to bring out the Sony 828, with its manual controls, for that one. Neither the phone nor the pocket-sized camera could cope.

Another way to use 3 wicks. These are 3 LX-8 wicks, tested for curl direction and arranged to splay out from the center. Advantage over one larger wick is that the flame is big (tall and wide) but isn't smoking. Also, it looks cool. Problem from my perspective, is that it's a big jump between wick sizes. I'd have to try to adjust burn rate with more or less stearic if I'm not satisfied. Using 1274, 2% stearic, 3% FO (BCN Cinnamon Raisin), 5 drops red, 7 black.

I've been reading back through 2005 messages on using IGI 1274 and wanted to start a new thread to get some up to date info and wisdom on using it, or why to switch. Example: http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9396&highlight=1274 I'm wondering: - Top, seems as of maybe 07 you no longer say that there's no way to make high quality mottles with 1274. Curious as to why... figured out a formula, wax changed, got tired of people using it anyway - The main problem seems to be a "low" melt point leading to bulging pillars. However, 140F is about the highest MP I see sold apart from hurricane or wick wax. Candlewic's 4045H is the only real alternative I see and it's about 140 also. Is there, easily found, anything better? I live near Candle Science so I think I'll try to make the best of 1274. - Some early threads came to a solid conclusion that stearic alone would work, but that FT Wax (paraflint, clear crystals, translucent crystals) at about 1% was the best way to overcome 1274 (or 1343) softness. What's the current thought on that? And, if it's still a good idea, any suppliers recommended? I don't see it at Candlewic any more, just Gloss Poly C15 which is different and makes wax opaque. Microcrystalline wax was mentioned here and there - anyone still argue for its usefulness in reducing bulge or seepage-during-burning? That's about it. Though would also be interested in wicking 1343 vs 1274, as they're often said to be the same or similar, but I find the latter needs wicks two sizes down to burn about th same. The TBSP vs Percent thing is also a hindrance trying to compare advice. Best I can deduce, 3 T of Stearic is 5-6%, depending on the "grind" of your bag of stearic. There also seems to be disagreement as to whether anything makes a mottling candle seep less during a burn, after curing. I can't say my own experiments have conclusively proven that 343 or stearic do anything about that. Just that IGI is full of it claiming "up to 6%", and that 2-4% depending on FO is more realistic. Thanks for any help. PS - One of the more amusing and inspiring threads was one showing how a lot of commercial pillars burned, and conversely, how good most of our "rejects" actually are. I have solid enough recipes to use that I bought my first case of 1274, but am too curious about the craft to let it rest at that.

I only went to the butterfly wick because I'd found good sizes of CSN (14 for 2.5" or 3") for all the Palm pillars and just wanted to try something new I may later try it for a 4" one in my new mold. CSN22 would likely work, but I may have that same issue where past a certain size, there's more smoking especially after lighting.

I probably did it just a little too much, like two twists an inch instead of one. I'm looking forward to trying the CD wicks in soy (464). CSN's are good, but a little more mushroom-proof in that particular wax (or maybe C3) would be nice to have.

I've made them with just about every kind of wax, and use the smallest wick I have (LX-8 or CSN-5). They've all worked well enough, except the IGI 4630, which would need a smaller wick. Also had a bag of commercial tealights of the pressed kind where the cup, wax, and wick are all easily taken apart. I'd take the wax from a few and make votives, which left cups and wicks for my "excess wax" tealights. I've never set out to make tealights, but often have just that much left in the pour pot.

Google will find more pics and sources, but Here's one at Bitter Creek I've seen them in metal and ceramic. What I'd really like is one that's less cutesy and just has circular cutouts.

Fragrances can have so many different molecules in them that I suppose it's possible the soy component has changed (reduced?) the strength of one scent-component more than another.

How do you pick the spacing? I know some wick bars or tools have fixed locations, but are there any rules of thumb about it? I tried a 3" palm pillar with a zero spacing CSN-9 double and it worked pretty well (CSN-7 next time though). The flame from the "butterfly" wick was very pretty.

I've had beeswax drip as easily as paraffin. 2.5" seems to be the minimum diameter to have much certainty that the side-wall will hold, and 2 hour burns would be fine. I guess they like the 4" look, though, eh? But, 1" and 2" pillars are more amenable to shorter-than-an-hour burn times. 2" with a #2/0 Square Braid is what I typically make. It doesn't _generally_ smoke, but then neither do 2" IGI1274 LX-10 pillars. In historical times, though, I imagine it was hard to get good paraffin, and anything beats beef tallow "For mystical reasons the Church prescribes that the candles used at Mass and at other liturgical functions be made of beeswax (luminaria cerea. — Missale Rom., De Defectibus, X, I; Cong. Sac. Rites, 4 September, 1875). The pure wax extracted by bees from flowers symbolizes the pure flesh of Christ received from His Virgin Mother..." http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/01347a.htm

Feels a little close for pointing them at each other... Again, keeping in mind I'm totally guessing here. I'd try angling them 90 degrees out from the line between them. i.e., imagine a square with your wicks at opposite corners, and angle each wick towards one of the other two corners. Seems that might make the roundest heat pattern. If anyone's actually figured this out, please post