DerekB

Thank you for the feedback. Meridith...I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. The tins I received I don't like for giving to customers. My question was can I still use them for testing knowing that I would use other tins that I like that are the same size/material? I understand that I can't test tin containers and expect the same result in glass jars. Thanks!

I have a couple of questions... 1. I just received my order of deep 8 oz tins from PaperMart (http://www.papermart.com/Product%20Pages/Product.aspx?GroupID=14267&SubGroupID=14268&ParentGroupID=19037#14268). Unfortunately, I don't really care for the "style" compared to other tins I have found/used. The dimensions of the container are the same as the other tins I've used. Does it make a difference if I use these for testing and once I get my candle wicked properly to use the other containers I like? I'm just not sure if there would be any other factors that would impact the candle wicking from one same size container to another? 2. I think I've read that you can reuse candle containers. Is this true? If so, do I just take the used containers and melt the wax by placing the containers in the oven? Do I need to be concerned with any wick glue residue that would impact future wax candle tests? I apologize in advance if this doesn't make sense or are just stupid questions. :rolleyes2

Nevermind everyone...after more reading this evening I found the answer to my question concerning USA. Thanks!

Stella, I've seen in other posts that you mention USA. What does that stand for? Is it the UV Light Stabilizer & Absorber at JBN?

Topofmurrayhill - Thanks for your feedback. If you don't mind me asking, what wax do you use now? I know I haven't tested long enough to determine if the Ecosoya CB135 is for me. It seems a lot of people like 464 or C3. Any thoughts? Also, if I were to stick with CB135, what wick would you recommend (you had mentioned CD, HTP or ECO)? I tried cotton core and didn't like it. The LX is promising but I don't like the mushrooming. I plan to try the CDN. But outside of these what other wick would you recommend? I'm sure in the end, I'll have tried every wick on the market. :rolleyes2

Okay...I just tested with LX - 14 and 16 wicks. I think the LXs have done okay... Unfortunately, I have not achieved a very good HT (I understand that this is subjective). Also, I believe the wicks are mushrooming too much (at least in my very unprofessional opinion). Attached is a picture from the first burn with the LX-14. Does this look normal? Based on the melt pool, did it burn to fast? I burned for exactly three hours and this was the result. Does the wick look like it's mushroomed too much? I plan to conduct further burns until the end. I'm not sure if anyone can share thoughts/suggestions based on this intial burn that I can use for future/ongoing tests. Also, I will be getting my CDN wicks later this week and will test when they arrive. Again, I appreciate everyone's help.

Thank you so much for your explanations...this is very helpful.

Vicky_CO - I'm new to candle making and I'm a little confused about how you measure. Right now, I measure on a scale 1 lb of wax and add 1 oz of FO. Is this not the correct way to measure? I want to make sure I clearly understanding how to measure and how everyone arrives at the appropriate percentages/ratios (I notice most everyone speaks to FO in terms of % versus quantity). Thanks!

I've been using a hot plate (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1273992&cp=2568448.2626057.1260030&parentPage=family) on a low heat setting to melt the wax. I haven't noticed any discoloration or burn, but I'm not sure what other effects this would have on the soy. Should I assume that even though I'm using a hot plate, I should still do a double boiler? I plan on purchasing a Surf & Turf to melt my wax because I eventually want to do larger batches. I began using a hot plate because I saw CandleScience's demonstration where they used one and assumed it was okay. I guess shame on me? Also, would this method have effected the way my candles burn?

Kimmeroo, Thanks for the info. Just to double check, is it better to measure the amount of fo based on weight or volume? I've always assumed weight.

Thank you for the information. I'm really enjoying this craft...I just can't wait to get my first "good candle" that is properly wicked and I can do it repeatedly. I took everyone's advice and ordered a sample set of CDN wicks from Just By Nature last night. Also, I poured three more candles to try a couple of LX wicks and a smaller cotton core wick. For some reason, the candles do not have the same cold throw as my first pour. I'm not sure if it's just me or if they need to sit longer. During the melting process, I ran into a dilemma measuring out the fragrance (I wasn't fast enough measuring out the oil and my scale shut-off). As a result, I got a little flustered and I think I screwed up the candles. I added the fragrance at 185 degrees as before, removed it from heat (where is dropped to about 175 degrees), at which point I thought to myself "was I suppose to leave it on the heat for a couple of minutes while stirring in fo"? As a result, I put the wax back on the heat for no more than 2 minutes and maintained a temp around 180 - 185 degrees. Then I took it off the heat, cooled, and poored at 125 degrees. Would this scenario do any "damage" such as burn off the fo? Also, I'm noticing that the wax slightly sunk from the sides of the tin container (not near the wick) . I'm assuming a heat gun will correct this? Again, thanks for listening and any advice. I can't wait to have more experience under my belt to actively contribute to the community.

Kimmeroo and Stella, Thank you for your feedback. For a 3" diameter container, where would you start for a CD/CDN wick size - CD/CDN 12? Also, Kimmeroo...you mentioned curing. How do you know when a candle has cured completely? When I poured the CB 135, I let it sit for 48 hours before burning. Would that have been enough time? Again, thank you for your assistance.

Keith at Fillmore Container just contacted me and informed me that their supplier just came out with a plated lid for this size container. I'm getting samples next week!

Does anyone know where I can find polished/plated aluminum lids for a glass tumbler that is 3" in diameter? I purchased this lid from Fillmore Container (http://www.fillmorecontainer.com/Lids/Small-Tumbler-Plated-Cover.htm) for a smaller size, but unfortunately, their lid for the 3" diameter comes in matte finish only. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thank you everyone for your responses. I'm definitely learning a lot as I go through the site. I do have one other question... I know that there are a ton of different wicks available. In my initial test, I used Pre-tabbed Cotton Core Wicks (C-60) with Ecosoya Container Blend 135 Soy Wax. Based on the results of my burn test, I was planning on going down a size. However, I want to make sure that the Cotton Core Wicks are the best wick to start with. I know that in general you should use what works, but CandleScience recommends LX wicks. Any thoughts one way or the other? I'm sure I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be! Thanks!!

Well I'm doing my third round of burn tests on my candle. I still have not achieved a full melt pool. Unlike yesterday, the candle is not throwing much scent and I have about 1/2" of tunneling (1/2" of wax up the sides. I've only achieved a melt pool of 2" in my 3" tin. As I'm just starting to learn this craft, I thought I'd try to confirm my suspicions...the wick is probably too large (as I originally suspected) and burned so fast that not only did it tunnel, but it also burned off the fragrance? The only other question I have is...if the wick is too large, wouldn't I have achieved a full melt pool and not tunneled? Sorry for sounding so confused. I've ordered other wicks in various sizes and plan to do a lot more testing. I just want to make sure that the size wick is what I should attack first versus type of wick. Thanks for the help.

Stella, Thank you for your response. I'm not looking for a short cut to testing...I just want to make sure I'm testing logically and efficiently. I am 100% on board for testing to the nth degree. I burned one of my other candles last night and it burned really nice. I'm going to continue testing tonight (and so forth) until they are completely burned. I also ordered some different wicks to test those as well. Thanks for the input.

Thank you for the feedback. I burned another one of my candles from this first pour. This candle had the wick perfectly centered and it seems to be burning really nice (correct pool width and depth). Obviously, I'll continue to test these two until they are completely burned. From everyone's past experience, what is the most efficient way to test container, wick, and fragrance combinations? Again, thank you for the feedback.

I'm new to candle making and this site. I've already learned a lot from reading everyone's posts. I'll apologize in advance if my questions are redundant. This past weekend I poured my first candles. Below are the details: 1lb Ecosoya Container Blend 135 Soy Wax 1oz Cranberry Citrus Fragrance Oil 3" wide 8oz tin No dye Pre-tabbed Cotton Core Wicks (C-60) I heated to 185 degrees, added fragrance, poured at 125 degrees I let the candles sit untouched for 48 hours before burningI'm now burning one of the candles and have a couple of questions. 1. Can I tell if I'm over wicked on the first burn? The candle has been burning for just about an hour and a half and the pool is 2" wide and 1/2" deep. Is it over wicked? 2. I have it burning in a large room. What is the ideal size room to get a "true" idea of scent throw? 3. I notice some "sweating" on the candle surface. Is this normal or should the candle have sat longer before burning? 4. The wick is curling slightly and has a little mushrooming. Is this normal? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.