Misty
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Posts posted by Misty
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I have been making candles for 30 years. I use a soy/parrifin blend, because I feel that it gives the best of each kind. It is a one pour, and from a labor stand point it saves time. For me testing is ongoing, and nothing gets sold until I am confident that it is a product that I would be happy buying. My first sale was at a craft show, which I no longer do because in my area they just don't bring in enough money, and are not worth the time and labor put into them. My biggest nightmare was using a wax to make my own blend, and right before the start of the holiday season, the manufacturer change their formula for that wax. Fortunately, I had just enough in stock to see me through, and then start testing a new wax. My advise would be to be sure of your product. Don't rush to sell, just to be selling. A customer will only buy a poor product once, and they will remember how bad it was forever.
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I use crothix to thicken.
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I use the soapmaker program for soapmaking and candlemaking. It works great for both.
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I use CD wicks in this wax. They work fine.
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I switch from joy wax last year to KY Perfect Blend. It is a real nice, smooth wax with great scent throw.
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I test every scent that I use. There really is no other way to know how that scent will perform if you don't. It may smell wonderful in the bottle, but can totally morph into not so great, in wax. You can get a great cold throw, but no hot throw. It could drown your wick. You just really don't want to be unsure of your product. Testing will give you confidence, and save your product's reputation. It would have a very negative effect on your business to sell a candle that didn't perform well, just because it wasn't tested first. I would only sell what I had tested for right now. People will only buy an inferior product once. Hope this helps.
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I use .5 oz of EO per pound of soap. I also grind lavender up and add to the soap, but I don't think just the ground lavender would be enough scent.
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In my experience with joy wax, it seemed too soft for tarts. It is a container wax.
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I make pillars as well as containers if you want to take a look.
www.masterpiecebathandcandle.com
Thanks
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I let it cool until it starts to sink in the center, then poke relief holes, and repour. I use RRD 47 in that size, but you will have to experiment depending on what FO you use.
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The mold that you used holds 1.5 pounds of wax. I fill it up on the first pour. It will shrink a little. I poke it and repour. I use RRD wicks in my pillars, and I don't spray my molds with anything. That is probably the oily feeling you are getting. If you have any trouble getting it out of the mold stick it in the fridge for a while. It will slide right out.
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Priority mail goes on an airplane, and with recent terrorist plans, no liquids are allowed on flights. Parcel post goes by truck, therefore liquids can go that way. It is a rule in all post offices. It could be that it wasn't revealed to the clerk in other offices that the package contained liquid. It' not the post office, but FAA ruling that is only meant to thwart terrorism and save lives.
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I have used lightning labels, and I can tell you they do a great job. The label quality is excellent. They are glossy, waterproof, and have a strong adhesive backing. They also have a great turn around time. I ordered and received them in less than 2 weeks.
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I am by no means an expert, but what temperature is your melter set at. My water jacket melter has a brass valve. Maybe this conducts the heat from the melter better. I usually set mine between 180 and 200 degrees.
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You can get it at Ridout plastics. They carry high temp mylar. www.ridoutplastics.com
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I do inventory, and use soap maker to do it. I really like it. It is a job to set it up. You will need to inventory your supplies to do it, but once you are done, it's a breeze.
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I started with and still use 8 lb wooden molds. I like the size of bar I end up with. I also found some 4 lb log molds on ebay that are a thick plastic. They were advertised as a no liner mold, but I ended up with 4 lbs of soap stuck in them. Had to cut them out with a knife, and ruined the soap. Now I line them too.
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Yes, you can click on show my shelf. It shows your inventory. I do it when I order so I don't forget something.
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I use soapmaker for my candles as well. I just enter my formulas as a non soap recipe. For instance a 12 oz jar is 11 oz wax, 1 oz fo, 1 wick, 1 jar. Everytime I make one, I make the recipe. It pulls everything out of inventory. It works!
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Oh yeah! Finally one that is near me. My daughter is attending college at Antonelli Art Institute this fall. She is within a few minutes of Valley Forge. I'm definately going to be there.
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I love this program. I have the pro version, and you can use it for everything, candles as well as soap. It will tell how much it costs to make each product. It keeps your materials inventory, so you know when to reorder. I can't say enough good things about it, especially since my old computer crashed and I lost the program, they let me download it again for free! Great people to work with.
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Try putting the mold in the refrigerator for a while. It should come out after it gets cold.
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I use croathix pastilles to thicken. You will need to warm it back up to add the croathix. I believe th Herbarie carries this.
Misty
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It helps if you can pour at a lower temp. Too high, and the heat will melt the adhesive on the tape. (Trust me I know). I pour around 160 degrees, with great success, and my wick is primed. Hope this helps get your wife back.
Perfect Blend
in Vegetable Wax & Beeswax Candle Making
Posted
I use the CD wicks with perfect blend, and they work for me.