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IndulgentCreations

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Posts posted by IndulgentCreations

  1. brempel- If you used a new recipe then it may just be because of the oils used in that recipe. Some recipes just take longer to set up, especially ones with high OO content. When I make castille I have to leave it for a week before unmolding which is why I don't make it often.

  2. Just depends. If you used the same recipe and are absolutely sure you didn't inadvertantly forget something or mis-weigh, it should set up. I'd give it another day and see what happens but usually in my case if it's my tried and true recipes and it does something way out of the norm...it's usually something I missed. It happens. Other option is did you use a new FO? That could also cause an issue.

  3. I was testing wicks with cd, lx, and rrd's but due to CS's Eco suggestion, I tried them and have found the Eco's to perform better for me. Please share your opinion on the different wicks in this wax.

    I am finding this to be true for me too. I've been testing 8 oz tins and so far the ECO's are the best out of RRD, LX, HTP and ECO's. I've been adjusting the LX's trying to get them to work too since I have a bunch of those wicks on hand...but REALLY liking the ECO's.

  4. I've made several batches of Pine Tar soap now using 10% PT in the batch. I've never had any acceleration when soaping it. Each time I have soaped it, I've expected it to move fast but it never has. In fact, the only problem I've had is getting past the smell.

    e- if you don't have any Pine Tar, Southern Soapers sells it.

    Different soaper, different results....never ceases to amaze me! My pine tar soap move sooooooo fast, worse than any of my florals and I have a bunch. I have read in the past that different brands of pine tar will change the acceleration. I get mine at Tractor Supply since they are all over the Midwest, don't have to pay shipping then. Once they stop carrying it, I'll order from SS but I just bought some this weekend and bought a 32 ounce can on clearance for $8.90...just cheaper that way!

  5. Pine tar soap is LOVELY stuff! I adore it - in a gentle recipe for problem skin like psoriasis, in a 1% SF harsher recipe for getting poison ivy under control!

    It is if you can get past the awful smell making it and that it's a huge PITA to make. I just up'd my pine tar % in my last batch and it moved faster than before, if that's even possible. Had to beat it into the mold!

  6. I use lard or tallow in most of my recipes, usually at about 40%, I don't notice that they are any softer than my all veggie recipe and they don't seem to wash away any faster. If you want to make it harder, try adding steric or beeswax and that should help.

  7. Lexi, I don't think Flash Point of FO has any relevance to CP or HP. Flash point refers to point at which FO will igniite if exposed to open flame. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Carole

    Carol, you are correct. Has nothing to do with the scent burning off or out of soap. I'd say most likely it's just a weak scent in soap, you may have to use more. I have some that are perfect at 1 oz PPO and I have others I have to adjust up or down. If you have a limited supply, I'd probably do the rebatch so you can make it stronger. If you do another batch with the same FO amount, you'll most likely get the same result. HTH

  8. Thank you April.

    Do you tell them about the stinging that may happen if they have a cut or nick? Or am I the only one that happened to?

    Do you all put a note or caution about this on the label?

    I do not put a note on the label but do remind them that it's best not to use for shaving.

  9. I've had the KD7000, and the My Weigh UltraShip now and would not recommend wither of them nor would I buy one again regardless of the price. The freeze up on me and the numbers continually bounce around. It drove me nuts. I'd recommend avoiding either scale. I now have an Escali I purchased from Brambleberry recently. It is still too new to decide if I like it or not but so far, it seems leaps and bounds better than the KD or the My Weigh.

    I have heard others say this about the KD7000 before, I myself have not had any problems and I've been using it for a year now, love it. I'll have to look on the dish forum but I seem to remember a guy that sells/fixes them that said there is something you can adjust to make it not so jumpy.

  10. Basically I tell me clients they have the same affect on the skin as swimming in the ocean. Some people's skin reacts very well to higher salt content (softer water) and many say it's helped to smooth out combination skin issues. It has a more lotion like lather, very small bubbles but very creamy. They are not exfoliating but become smooth like a polished stone.

    Your people that try salt bars and like them will swear by them. I've never had anyone not like them but some prefer my regular bars. They sell very well for me in my area and I get $1.00-$1.50 more per bar than I do for my regular soaps. HTH

  11. I don't think the lye was your problem, AAA sells great lye and there's no reason to use food grade lye, the tech. grade is fine. I think the problem is that it's a 65% olive oil recipe (not really a problem). That much olive will take a while to set up. Just give it extra time..I've had to wait a couple of days to unmold batches with higher % of OO. HTH

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