brudil18

You are talking about the very bottom of wick tab correct? Using silicone shouldn't prevent the wick from pulling wax as it should. At the base of the stem of the wick tab there is a hole or opening as well. I use high temp glue for mine and have never had a problem with the self extinguish aspects of the wick tab.

I like #4. Its seperates the text from the logo. It allows the logo itself to stand on its own. I think that is better for branding purposes.

As Chris mentioned above. The Flash point is the lowest temp at which that particular liquid could ingnite in air. Mixing with wax obviously changes that. I use palm wax and in general add my FOs when the waxs temp is at/or below the flash point.

Hi Jen, Just curious... are you poking relief holes and doing re-pours? It hadn't been mentioned yet, but look at your candles during the burn. I've had candles that start out burning nice then all of sudden it hits a pocket and the flame starts to jump and then the fun begins. Big flame, mushrooming, and a sooty candle. Just my two scents... I got this advice from Stella before After poking holes and repours I get more consistent burn qualities. Hope this helps.

Agree with the above comments. Each FO responds differently. Although I am fairly new (1 1/2 years), I track the amount of time I let my candles cure. Some have shorter times than others. I find that in general a good week is good for all. But track it and you find subtle differences with each FO.

Hi Deb, I try an explain what I do and hopefully it makes sense. I made a cardboard cut out that I measured to the center of my jars from the top and bottom so they are perfectly centered each time. I'm like you where I would get frustrated if I was just a little shaky with my hand and put a label on "a little off". Anyway, my cardboard cut out hole (the opening) was just a tad smaller than the size of my lablel. I covered the cardboard with wax paper so the label wouldn't stick directly to the cardboard. I put my label over the opening and hold the cut out up to my jar which perfectly centers them and press the label in the middle on to the jar. When I press in the middle the label just comes right off that little lip on the cut out on to the jar perfectly centered (top to bottom) everytime. Seem like a lot of work I know but the cardboard template makes me feel like I'm better at more centered, straight label applying. :smiley2:

Hello all, Is there anyting specific that needs go on warning labels for palm wax container candles? What other info should go on the warning label? Is there a site somewhere to get those little icons you see on candle warning labels now? Just wondering how eveyone else gets that stuff. The generic ones are fine I guess, but I wanted to customize a little and didn't know if different kinds of wax required different warning labels. Thanks, Bruce

Hi Newbie One other thing that might be important for you as well. I love GG palm and have had much fun with it. While I agree that you pour hot (I think someone mentioned at about 200 degrees), make sure you check the flash points on whatever FO you use. Some have flash points that are lower than 200 degrees, for those I tend to pour around 170 -175 just to be careful. Don't want to have a candle that doesn't smell great. Of course that could be my paranoia LOL.

Hello all, I have read so many post about air pockets with GG. Stella you advice has been very helpful. I'm not sure if I am doing this correctly or not though as I still seem to have air pockets. I use a wooden Kabob skewer to poke relief holes then do a repour later on. When exactly should I be poking relief holes? And, when should I do my repour? I think maybe my timing is just wrong and I'm not sure when exactly to poke the relief holes. Thank you, Bruce

Hello all. Does any one know where I can get CDN wicks on the east coast? Mid Atlantic region preferably. Found a place in Texas, but shipping was almost as much as the wicks. Thanks for your help. Bruce

Hello all, Just a quick question. What are some other types of palm wax for containers that you all are using? I am using GG from CS and I just don't think it will ever burn right for me. I've done different pour temps, relief holes, different wicks, no scent, no color, as so on, and it just doesn't seem to burn well for me. Lots of sooting and big flames. I'm thinking about trying some different palm container wax and wanted some suggestions of other brands/distributors that you have had success with. I heard of a type that is beaded as opposed to the flakes I have gotten from CS. Where can I find that stuff? Thanks, Bruce

Stella, I think you mentined before that you use CDN's in your palm wax candles, correct? How big is the flame you get when using the CDN's. I've tried CSN's from CS to no avail. no matter what I do they just burn with very large flame and really hot. Thinking about giving up on CSNs and trying the CDNs Thanks.

Does anyone have good luck with the CSN wicks from CS for GG palm? I've made several containers with many different sizes of CSN wicks and they all seem to burn with a really large flame and tons of mushrooming. Any suggestions for other wicks that work good in GG palm? Thanks.

Hello all, Just a quick question. When I am pouring my palm containers the wicks will sometime release during the pour. I am using a glue gun to glue them down. I've seen many post about different types of glues to use or other options. I was wondering if anyone uses anything hi temp that dries clear? Thanks.

Jumping in late here. I've had a lot of fun with GG. A lot of frustration too. But the HT and CT seem to be really good with this wax. I use CS for my supplies as well. My only problem has been wicking a 4" diameter container. Not very succesful to this point as I get huge flames and the candle burns too quickly. Switching to a 3" status jar and will try again I've never had to do a repour with this wax (yet). Not sure if i'm lucky or what, but its been good to me. I know others have mentioned pre-heating your jars, but I also pre-heat my pour pot as well. I cool my candles on a cookie rack, but leave them uncovered and still get very nice looking crystal formations. Some of my previous posts have pictures of my early attempts. I say go for it! you'll have fun with this wax and people at CS have always been very helpful as well. :smiley2:

Hello all, I'm just looking for some feedback from the rest of you that use the CSN wicks from CS. I have tested and tested and I still do not get great burns with these wicks. I am using a 4" diameter jar, but the flames just always seem out of control no matter what I do. Has anyone had good success with CSN wicks? I am now trying some FW's from Wicks Unlimited to see if I get better results. Hopefully these will work. :smiley2:

I tested the CSN 22 in another 4" apothecary jar (will burn the CSN 26 tomorrow) and got a full melt pool and no hang ups. Very exciting I guess. Only problem was i got a huge flame and the candle burned up quick. Lots of mushrooming too. Right now I am using the Very Vanilla scent from CS in the candle with a drop of dye. I'm using a 6% Fragrance load and I think I will pull back to 4% to see if I can't get that flame under control. Atleast I got full melt pull single wicking a 4" apothecary jar. Almost there... a few more test candles and I think I might have it... hopefully. wish me luck. Bruce

I started with CSN14 from the single size pack and then bought the sample pack when they added the CSN16 to it. for both packs I bought I got huge flames. Hopefully, what ever the quality control problems they have will not take place in the order I just placed tonight for a new sample pack that includes the 22's and 26's. I'll start with the 22's and see what results I get with those.

I have to agree with Stella. Once I started to pre warming my containers I have had no problem with air pockets. Not sure if that really makes a huge difference, but it sure helps to slow cool the candles. I pre heat my jars at 170 in the oven and take them out right before I'm ready to pour. They are usually in the oven for about 15 minutes prior to pouring. I also pre heat the pour pot as well. I pour at 200 and I've never had air pockets since. I guess I've gotten pretty lucky because I don't cover them after pouring. I just cool them on a cookie rack and I seem to get pretty good results. Hope this helps.

I did a test burn using the CSN16 (I bought those right before CS came out with the 22's and 26's) and still got the hang ups on the jar. I'm going to order some of the 22's and 26's and give them a try. I just noticed they include the 22's and 26's in the sampler pack. On a side not. Does eveyone uisng the CSN have a large flame when you burn the candle? I've varied my FO load a few times and no matter what I get a pretty big flame off these wicks. Thanks for all the advice. It's nice to see a lot of us working with palm. It sure does look great, but I would love to finally get a good burn. Happy testing! Bruce

I have a 4 inch apothecary jar that I am now using CSN16 wick. I us GG palm wax and I am still getting a little wax on the side of the jar. The mp just doesn't seem to get all the way to the edge of the jar. I'm sure I could double wick to help with the problem, but I am really trying to avoid double wicking at all cost. Does anyone have the same experience with the CSSN wicks or do you any recomendations for another type of wick that works well in GG palm? Thanks, Bruce

Anybody used GG palm in tealights? what wic did you use for those? I always seem to have a little bit of wax left over and firgued I could just pour into tealight containers.

I just finished my first test burn on GG palm container candle I made. Here is what I used. GG palm wax. Apothecary jar 4" diameter, CSN14 wick, Some liquid dye, and vanilla scent. I have some wax left on the sides of the jar and what you see in the pics is whats left of the candle. The wick has burned all the way to the wick tab and doesn't light anymore. Any suggestions on how to get it to burn more even? Do others that use GG palm see the same thing? Any suggestions on other wicks to use? I really don't want to double wick if I don't have to. Thanks for any advice. http://aycu11.webshots.com/image/41370/2004645670542010720_rs.jpg http://aycu05.webshots.com/image/42684/2004637676899968499_rs.jpg

How long do you need to let a GG palm container candle cure? I've seen several different answers to this, but I'm curious as to what other GG palm makers cure times are. Thanks for the help. Almost done with my test burn on my first candle. I'll have some pics up soon, but I'm pretty happy so far. The CSN14 wicks seem to be doing pretty good so far, except for the mushrooming. :smiley2:

Hi all, I made my second GG palm container and took the advice of preheatng the jars. I preheated at 170 (as low as my oven will go :smiley2: ). I think it turned out pretty good. Let me know what you think. I've seen other pics of GG palm containers and I'm just not sure if mine looks the same or not. Hopefully you can tell me if my second one looks good or not. http://aycu39.webshots.com/image/42998/2003215129785983746_rs.jpg http://aycu22.webshots.com/image/41421/2003282659193281976_rs.jpg http://aycu13.webshots.com/image/39412/2003282710930789624_rs.jpg I'm test burning my first one and the CSN 14 wick I used really mushrooms. Is that normal for these wicks? Other than that I do get a good melt pool and the HT throw is pretty good, but I think the CT is much better. I do have a littl bit of wax left on the sides from the first burn (4 hours). I'm hoping that will go away on my successive burns. Thanks for all the advice. Bruce