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Mozzie

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Posts posted by Mozzie

  1. Hmmm, not sure how you could get a greater distinction between the 2 types of layers except by a) reducing the stearine in the mottled section, and B) waiting a bit longer between pours so that the rustic layer is well set up before the mottle is poured. Of course this delay may cause your layers to not bind so well but could be worth experimenting with. BTW, I love pic 2 of the back - fabulous rustic (even though it's not what you were going for) and great colours. A very nice pillar IMO.

  2. Beth, Had to chuckle at your whole story. You must have had the wax pretty cool to be able to hold your finger over the wick hole without burning it. Still can't imagine how you managed to thread the wick back through but good on you! Now to answer your questions. 1) I add stearine to my pour pot after all the wax has melted, then add colour and fo. 2) I pour at about 150 F but only after making sure that the wax is stirred and not starting to congeal on the bottom of the pot (or getting lumpy :cheesy2:). 3) Poke relief holes after about 45 minutes to an hour. The wax will be quite firm but soft and there will still be liquid where you poke the holes. Just keep them open by repoking every 30 minutes or so. I'm looking forward to seeing your rustic in the gallery, I bet it turns out sensational as these "disasters" often do. Mozz

    Whoops, forgot to answer the microwave question but that's possibly because I have no idea. I've heard that it's a dangerous thing to do but as someone who has set my wax on fire at least twice I'm in no position to cast aspersions. LOL

  3. not to give away any secrets, but do I use a drill of some sort to make to wick hole?

    Hmm, good question. A drill may leave too large a hole. How about a heated skewer? You could even insert the skewer while the wax was still setting up or even before pouring if you could find a way to hold it in place. That's one of the great joys of candle making - finding different ways of doing things - it really stimulates creativity. :D

  4. You certainly can. You can use just about anything that will stand up to the heat of the wax. With glasses you'll need to make a wick hole through the pillar after it's released from the glass as the top of the glass is the bottom of your pillar. Milk cartons are a good way to start as you can poke a hole in the bottom and thread your primed wick through it. JoJoT makes some stunning "crushed can" candles that you may want to do a search for.

  5. I think that you've done a marvellous job on those heart embeds - they look sensational. As for a heat gun, your life will never be the same afterwards - use it for cleaning your (metal) moulds and the wax comes off a treat, simply wipe with a paper towel (use a chop stick or similar to move the towel around in the bottom of the mould or you'll burn your hand).

  6. I have some of that clear paper they use for printing for overhead projectors' date=' is it that sort of thing?I[/quote']

    NO!!!! It's called waterslide decal paper. If you do a websearch you'll find that there are quite a few suppliers around the place. You print your image (text) on the decal paper and then soak it in water for about a minute. You then slide the decal (hence the name) off the backing sheet and onto your candle. If you have an inkjet printer you'll also need some kind of sealer so that the ink doesn't wash off in the water (just ask me how I know. LOL). If you have a laser printer, so much the better as no sealant is required. HTH. Mozzie

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