Burned Out

That would be SO awesome! My "I", too!

Hi Candybee, I'm a M&P newbie and I'm also trying to find ways to make the bars harder and longer lasting without changing the quality. Does it matter which type of Coconut Oil you use? FCO or Virgin? Does the Coconut Oil affect the lather in any way? Will it cloud a clear base? BO

Hi Patka, I'm sorry about not posting again sooner. Time got away from me with other projects, but I FINALLY tried out the Organic Veggie Wax from Swan's. So far, I like it alot. The cold and hot throw are fabulous. It has a very smooth consistency with very little cracking. And you can hot pour this wax, no need to wait for it to cool down. I am having some issues wicking it, though. It's incredibly soft and tunnels like the dickens! This seems to be common with some of the Calsoy/Accublend waxes that were created by the same formulator. I'm not done wick testing yet, but I liked the hot throw from the CSN wicks best. However, I'm still trying to find the just right size for those. CD wicks also seem to work. HTH, Bo

Hi Tina, I'm a regular Calsoy CB3 user that has also tested the GB444 a little bit. However, it was a few years ago that I tried out the GB444, so the formula may have changed since then. Hopefully someone that uses GB444 and really knows it well can chime in with their feedback. I did not like the wax right away because it didn't have that creamy smoothness that the CB3 does. I had a lot of flaking and cracking on the top, and cracks throughout even pouring at 140 degrees into a room temp glass. The cold throw wasn't as powerful as the CB3 either, so I never bothered testing for the hot throw. Have you tried the Ecosoya CB135? Of all the soy waxes I've tried, I think it's the closest I've ever found to Calsoy CB3. It's not quite as smooth, but still smoother than most and seems to have a great cold and hot throw with most FOs. It also tunnels a lot less than the Calsoy and is much easier to wick. I know for sure that Peaks in Colorado sells it and it costs less than a case of the CalSoy before the shipping cost. HTH! Bo

Hi Lynn, I ship a lot of International Orders, and I agree with the others that have posted that the Flat Rate Priority Mail boxes are great! The same Flat Rate Box can be used for either US or International orders. The Flat Rate is also the same no matter where you are shipping to across the globe. They now offer both a small and large Flat Rate Box. There is a 20lb max weight limit for the small Flat Rate Box going Internationally, though. If what you are shipping weighs less than 4 lbs and is in a small sized envelope or box, you can actually send it at the Airmail Letter Rate which is extremely cheap. www.usps.com has free calculators for both US and International shipping based on zip/postal codes if you want to find exact rates instantly. It will show you the Airmail Letter Rate, too. And you can order the free Flat Rate Boxes and have them sent to you for no charge if your Post Office doesn't have them in stock. If you ship candles only, it's fairly uncomplicated. If you ship liquids, though, there are strict regulations. You won't be able to ship any liquids with a flashpoint of less than 200 degrees Farenheit. I ship Linen Sprays, and had to rework the formula to have a flashpoint above 200F to use the Postal Service. HTH! :smiley2: Bo

Hi, I've been having the same wicking issues with both the CocoPar and all natural Coco Wax from Accublend. I haven't had luck with any type of wick. I've tried RRD, HTP, ECO, CSN, Hemp, LX and CD. They all clog and die out after a few burns. The CD wicks had the least clogging. I've started blending the Coco wax with other waxes, and that is starting to solve the problem. HTH! Bo

Thank you Holly and Stella! I will definitely try the CDNs and Hemps. I have both on hand, so I'll give them a try this week and post my results soon!

Hi Stella, I've tried ECOs, RRDs, LX and HTPs. They all drown out within the first hour. It appears that something in the wax is clogging the wick. Then when I let the candle rest a day or two and bump up a size, the wicks smoke right away. There doesn't seem to be an in-between sizing that works. I'm also using an FO I've used for years, and that usually has to be wicked-down compared to most of the other FOs I use. So I know it's something in the wax clogging most of the wicks I've tried. I was surprised about the RRDs. I've never seen any wax defeat an RRD wick before! It's always been my go-to wick on the really stubborn veggie waxes. I double checked that the RRD wick was upright, so that wasn't the problem. I still get a great hot throw, though, even when the wick is struggling before dying out. I wonder, if I can figure out the right wicking, how awesome the hot throw must be! I'm in the process of testing with CDs now, since they work well with most heavy veggie waxes and EOs. If I can master this wax with the CDs, I'll be sure to post.

Hi Tootie, I've been testing both the Coco-Par and all natural Coco wax from Swan's. Using the same FO in same % in both, I found the Coco-Par was definitely the better wax of the two. It has great cold and hot throw. The all natural Coco had a weaker cold throw and almost no hot throw. One thing I found with the Coco-Par is that you need to increase the FO load for a good throw. 6% FO just gets lost in this wax. I ended up using 9% and had a great result. The max FO load for the wax is 10%. It also seems to take longer for the cold throw to develop in the Coco-Par compared to Soy or ParaSoy cure times. But it does come through really nicely in about 2 weeks. Both waxes are difficult to single wick. Even in a 2-2.5" diameter candle. They both tunnel and leave a lot of hang. Wicking up causes the wick to smoke. I haven't tried double or triple wicking this wax yet, but I'm thinking that might be worth trying next. The wicking problem was the only thing I didn't like about the Coco-Par.

Just saw this post, panicked and checked with Swan's. The update is that they've decided to keep the CB30 after all. Whew! It's still going to be available through their Washington store, but will cost more. But then, with soy prices going the way they are, what soy wax or parasoy isn't going up in price lately? If you can master the wicking of CB30, it is an AMAZING wax! The hot and cold throw are out of this world and the burn times are incredible. It's very smooth and pretty, too.

I just ordered a sample to try out in the next few weeks. I will post the results here when I've given it a test run.

I've definitely experienced "fishing" for knowledge and secrets from my candle customers over the years. Usually from the ones that think candle making is really easy and they could save a lot of money just doing it themselves! :laugh2: Does it seem to any of you that you encounter a lot of people that falsely assume that candlemaking is extremely easy? I seem to run into that attitude all the time. Customers that are surprised to learn that candles are made using specific formulas, and not just throwing whatever is around in any amount into the candlepot! Or that there are different wick types and sizes, not just a one size fits all wick. For example, a few years after I started making candles and learning the craft, I had a friend who thought it sounded like a great idea and would try it, too. He took all of the store bought candles he had around his house, melted them together into a muddy brown, awful smelling mess, poured them into the biggest jar he could find and wicked it with......a SHOELACE!!!! I'm amazed he didn't set his house and his entire neighborhood ablaze. He really thought that was all you needed to do - pour any kind of wax and insert something resembling a wick.

Hi Nathan, Yes, you'll definitely be okay with glass. It won't oxidize with those problem FOs. From Nature with Love is very good about specifying whether or not one of their candle oils contains significant vanillin. Though they are a bit pricey, it helps to be able to prescreen FOs. Their candle scents are great quality as well. Good luck with your high-end accounts! That is very exciting. Congratulations! BO

I've had this problem, too. It is definitely caused by certain fragrances, usually those with a lot of vanillin or aldehydes in them, which I know can also cause soap to turn brown. I call these FOs my "rusters" It's a shame, because it's usually the really creamy, buttery scents loaded with vanillin that sell extremely well for me. I've also seen it in a few tropical scents that are heavy on the aldehyde content. The good news is, I've never seen my "rusters" react in glass, just tins. It appears to be some sort of oxidation occuring when vanillin/aldehyde heavy FO comes in contact with the metal. If you really love the FOs, but can't stand the rusting, glass will be okay. I've also noticed that there is a bit less rusting if I use a parasoy. If I'm using soy without any paraffin, there is more rusting. I know that many of the soy wax manufacturers recommend keeping soy wax away from oxidizers - so I've always assumed it's probably more vulnerable to oxidizing. I've found that the candle tins from Specialty Bottle don't rust as much. Their tins are coated for use with acidic foods. They still rust somewhat, but it's not nearly as bad as uncoated tins. I'm not sure spraying Krylon or some other acrylic would be a good idea. It will most likely blister and melt or even burn with the heat from the candle flame. If you can't bear to give up your rusting FOs in tins, try Specialty Bottle. You can order just a couple of tins to try out - you don't have to order case minimums. I've never had any safety issues with the coating Specialty Bottle uses on their tins, even with a super hot CD wick flame. I've also found that if I add enough beeswax to my soy to get it to shrink away from the inside of the tin a bit, so it's not touching, it will also slow down the rusting. HTH! BO

Kim, I totally empathize! I'm on the West Coast, and shipping costs on wax and glass are unbelievable! I ended up renting a mailbox with a locally owned business (instead of one of the large chains like UPS Store), and the owner is kind enough to deal with my enormous number of heavy boxes. Because her business is in a Mall, it is technically a Commercial address, and I qualify for the UPS Commercial Rate. It can be a bit of a hassle loading everything in the car and schlepping it home, but I save a LOT in shipping costs. I also ended up renting a storage unit in a Mini Storage space recently, after several of my private label customers wanted me to store their unique glasses, jars and boxes. So if I have a shipment of something that is large enough for Motor Freight, I arrange to have it delivered there. Most of the freight companies will work with you to arrange an appointment time, so you can meet them on site to sign for the shipment. If the shipment is large enough, Motor Freight will save you a lot of money. Just be sure you request they send it in a truck that has a liftgate, so they can get the pallet out of the truck. I agree with everyone that has recommended Peak. They have a great selection and the shipping has always been reasonable to the Northwest where I am. Swan's is also terrific. They have a nice selection of waxes, and they ship FedEx which I find is always less expensive than UPS. They also charge actual shipping cost and don't mark-up the shipping expense in any way. Very nice folks. HTH!

Sally, I tried using EO in container Palm, and although it appeared to blend without bleeding out of the wax, I lost most of the beautiful crystal appearance. The wax ended up with a just a bit of sparkle and none of the more dramatic crystals. They burned very well. The problem was only a cosmetic one. I only tried two EOs, however - Lemongrass and Lavender. You might get a different result with other EOs. HTH!

I second Jeana's suggestion on the wick. The CD Series has always worked extremely well for me. No mushrooming whatsoever. I also have to second George's list. That was great, George! You, too? As George warned, I would also recommend that you be very cautious when using a large percentage of any EO with a low flashpoint. I had the entire top of a soy EO candle ignite when using 6% Sweet Orange Oil (average FP is 120 degrees) and a hotter burning HTP wick. If you like the aromas of the EOs with low flashpoints, you can also try creating blends using other EOs with higher flashpoints to raise the entire temperature. The proverbial "killing two birds with one stone"...you'll have a blend with more character that's less likely to burn down a customer's home. I find my candles don't ignite at 4%, and I usually add additional EOs with higher flashpoints. I also let my initial soy wax candle sample that I use for wick testing cure at least 6 weeks before testing the burn, particularly when using an EO blend with an overall low temp FP. I was told by a technician that worked with soy wax formulations that it can take up to 6 weeks for FO or EO to fully migrate throughout the cold wax after the initial blending and pouring. Imho, nothing smells quite as clear and true as an EO in a candle. Welcome to the wonderful world of candles with essential oils, TOP!

Hi Carole, This is really Top's area of expertise. Top? But I do know that there is Palm Stearic (also called Triple Pressed Stearic) and traditional animal fat derived Stearic which was used prior to the Vegetable/Palm version being developed. Both work in exactly the same way as I understand.

Okay, here is the info I was thinking about from another forum. Couldn't find the exact source that stated it was BeanPod's method, but it is the same method I remember reading about. It goes back to the idea about tempering soy wax as you would temper chocolate that has been discussed here before: Another thought is what is called tempering. The crystals that the solid wax is comprised of need to stabilize. Do you have an area where you can place the candles for 48 hours in a temperature of about 75 to 80 degrees to cure? Preferably pour the candles in this environment and leave them for the 48 hours. This method is called tempering. The crystals normally continue to cure for some time after the candle solidifies and in this method you have them stabilize at a temperature that good adhesion occurs. It's worth trying. I also understand Soy Basics / BeanPod is trying to patent their "Tempacure" or tempering process.

I've used Veg Stearic in soy, and at the right amounts, it does make for a creamier, smoother candle that will release from the container. Cold throw is also fanatistic. Also helps with wetspots. Problem is, the stearic seems to kill the hot throw completely. Even with my best soy compatible FOs. The BeanPod candle I bought to test for myself has amazing hot throw, so I don't think it's Veg Stearic. I read somewhere on the internet that the BeanPod process involves curing at a higher heat for a specified length of time - around 75 degrees - right after pouring. Of course, now I can't find where I saw that bit of info! But I'll start looking for it again, and post it here when I find it. Yes, although the candles say "Made with 100% Stabilized Soy Wax", that doesn't mean there aren't other additives included. As long as the extra "stabilizing" additives aren't defined as "wax" i.e. paraffin, beeswax, they could safely make the statement without being guilty of false advertising.

Hi Dahlia- Forgot to mention in my last post that there is also a free online calculator for converting grams to ounces/lbs. http://www.metric-conversion.net/weight-converter.htm

One of my favorite topics! Geez, am I a hopelessly obsessed candlemaker, or what? I spent years using a really cheap scale from Walmart, but decided to upgrade and found the best scale - The My Weigh 7001dx at Lotioncrafter (a cosmetic supplier). Best $$$ I ever spent! My formulas are so much better with the accurate scale. This scale gives you the option of switching between grams or ounces. It weighs very small quantities - 1 gram or 0.10 oz (1/10th of an ounce). For very small batches, the gram weight option allows you to be really accurate. Now, the great part...when I was shopping for this scale, I found that most of the sensitive scales that weigh in grams only hold up to 3 lbs total. Ridiculous for candlemakers. The My Weigh will hold up to 15 lbs. It's just right for candlemaking. And I also use it to weigh smaller boxes for shipping. It also has a Tare button (set your pot on the scale, hit Tare and it goes to zero, so you are only weighing the wax/fo you're adding to the pot). And a Hold button, so you can have the scale hold the current weight while you go find the extra ingredient you forgot to bring over to your work table. I only paid about $35 for this scale. LOVE IT! Here's the link for Lotioncrafter. The owner of Lotioncrafter, Jenny, is really wonderful, too. http://www.lotioncrafter.com/store/My-Weigh-7001DX-pr-16157.html

I'm a longtime chandler but new to the forum. Soy is not necessarily better than paraffin for the skin. From personal experience, when I work with a lot of soy wax, the skin on my hands breaks out in a lovely red rash. The wax I am handling is unscented, pure 100% soy wax with no additives. Many people are allergic to soy, and that can include absorption via the skin. Something to keep in mind if you are considering a soy candle/lotion line of your own. By the way, this forum is my dream come true! Other chandlers that love working out the logistics of great hot throw, wicking and melt pools. My family is used to me "waxing" poetic about my latest formula, but I can see their eyes glaze over with boredom. You all are my kinda Peeps!