MochaMama
-
Posts
440 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Blogs
Downloads
Posts posted by MochaMama
-
-
Hi Blazerina:
I used both a built in template and a custom template. I went to page setup, chose "label" then selected the appropriate Avery #. For the custom, I chose "custom" then set up the margins and the horizontal gap etc. as outlined by Onlinelabels.
In my page view, I see one label. Publisher then duplicates this label for the whole sheet.
Now, only the very first label has a black square over it. I can see the label through this black square - it seems to be superimposed over the actual image on the label. I used an autoshape to create the circular label, then filled that autoshape with a jpeg using "fill effects" command.
The black square does not cover the entire label. It seems to be the exact size (radius) of the autoshape circle that I used, if that makes sense. Like the circlelabel fits exactly inside the black square.
As you wrote, it would seem to me that it should be on ALL the labels on a sheet, not just the first one, since I'm only formatting/working on one version of the label.
I really appreciate your help on this. It is so puzzling!
I ran a diagnostic through the Hewlett Packard site and it says my drivers are updated.
I took the whole label apart last night and did not see anything amiss. This is truly a mystery. I just hate wasting one label per sheet, especially with the larger 2x4 labels.
-
I can totally understand why you wouldn't want to share because of her retinence about where she gets her stuff.
I'd tell her the place for the supplier then turn around and ask her where she got that great EO that you bought from her.
What I think may happen is that if you give her the name of the local place, then she'll want you to tell her how much to use, percentages and the like. Send her to google in that case.
-
I was wondering if any of you sent a follow up email to customers that purchased off your website.
I was thinking of sending out a mini-survey (three questions) to customers that made a purchase but didn't know if people wanted to be bothered.
What are your thoughts?
-
be cautious - 2.5% is 2.5 times the recommended amount for a leave on product for most fragrance oils.
Yes, very true. However, I email each manufacturer for their recommended usage and I have gotten usage rates from 1-2% all the way up to 8%-9%.
I should have specified in my other post that though my average usage is 2.5%, I always follow the manufacturer's recommended rate of usage. I don't want anyone to take my usage rate as fact for all FOs!
-
Did you configure the print settings to print on glossy paper as opposed to regular paper?
Also, did you check the HP site for troubleshooting tips? I am not sure what you have tried all ready and I dont' have any experience with a Laser Jet (if only I had one....).
-
Hi! Maybe if you posted your percentages we could see what's keeping you from getting the texture you want.
What kind of texture are you looking for? A lip balm base type, or a scoopable type product?
-
I made some of this for myself with BCN lip balm base. I love it! I would like to make some more to have friends test it for me. I have a couple questions about it though. What % of FO do you add to this? Where can I find a container, like 1-2 oz tube, to package it in? Is this base solid enough to but into a mold and not a container?
Thanks for your input...
Erin
Each manufacturer's specifications for percentage of fragrance oil is different, but I use about 2.5% in lotion bars depending on the strength of the fragrance. (I like a nice strong fragrance).
Brambleberry (brambleberry.com) makes clear 1 oz push up lotion tubes, but many don't like them because of the tendency for the product to just "fall out". I use the 2 oz tubes from elementsbathandbody.com.
As for whether it is solid enough to put in a mold, I have never used BCN's lip base, so I don't know. Experiment! You can take a tiny bit of the base, melt it, then put it in a muffin tin. Then if it works for you and it's solid enough, remelt it back into your batch.
Good luck and have fun!!
-
for a balm you would want less beeswax.
Totally agree. Less beeswax will create a softer bar, so when it touches the baby's bottom, it will melt almost instantly so as not to drag on the delicate skin.
The recipe section has lots of diff. recipes for the lotion bar/lip balm base also.
-
Thank you for the response, but that's not the problem. If only it were that simple. I'm beginning to think it's the old drivers on my printer because when I print the same thing on my new printer, it doesn't happen.
I like using the older printer because then I can melt soap and print labels at the same time....but we can't all have our druthers.
Why oh why do things have to be so complicated sometimes????
-
I am printing out sheets of labels in MS publisher, but I notice that the very first label on each page is printing out black. I can see the actual label, but it seems to have a black square printed over it. This does not show up in the print preview and I don't know how fix it. The rest of the labels on the sheet are perfect - just the very first one is messed up.
Does anyone know how to solve this problem?
Thanks in advance.
-
Hi Jacqui:
You can try KYcandlesupply. Scroll down to the end of the page
http://www.kycandlewaxsupply.com/bathandbody.htm
Hope this helps.
Oh and I did not know that about the low sweat base - thanks melany!!
-
Hi Ladies
I need a little help on this recipe. I am trying to get the basic feel down first before I add FO and preservative.
The recipe I have so far is
30% cocoa butter
15% shea buttah
55% sugar
Soooooo, I'm still tweaking it of course, but it's sooooooo greasy! When you rub it onto dampish skin, it feels great, but it leaves a thick greasy film behind. When you rub this grease film off, the skin is soft, but that greasy film is not to be believed.
So I've been eyeballing the mysterious emulsifying wax.....I was thinking if I added some it would reduce the thick greasy film and turn it into a rich luxurious body lotioning balm. Ok, I'm kidding around a bit, but will adding e wax help the greasies?
Thanks so much
-
Hi Dee:
I ran a quick search on lotion bases and came upon this thread.
I hope this helps.
I have not used WSPs bases myself, so I can't help you, but I do know that you can only add so many additives (if any) to a base before the preservative ratio is compromised.
http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62933&highlight=lotion+base
-
Products are even better when you can go pick em up...:whistle:
(and now they're moving even closer to me!)
Go ahead, Mostly, rub it in, rub it in. (LOL)
There is nothing in NJ from where I can order and pick up....but I LOVE Soaper's Choice.
-
I don't care for cornstarch in stuff as I can feel it on my skin. But that is me and you might find you like it. Good luck!
You are so right Meridith - as I get more experience, I don't care for the cornstarch feel either - I am going to be phasing it out.
-
Your recipe looks pretty good at first glance - sometimes I add a bit of cornstarch to cut the greasies. Usually my bars are firm to the touch, but melt quickly w/out a waxy feeling that beeswax can have. My first bars were horrible ( to me at least) because of too much beeswax - waaaaay too waxy.
Beeswax should be just enough to keep the bar firm.
-
Can't you make a hang tag that is business card sized, and then fold it in half so that you actually have four areas to print info?
I do this with my small 4 oz. candles that I put into bags, it works out great!
One fold shows my logo, tag line, fragrance and wt., the two inside folds say something about being handpoured, great for weddings, showers, or just for pampering yourself. and then the last fold (the back)has my business name and address info.
That's a LOT of info (IMO) and so not sure why you couldn't do that with the bath teas?
You know what Michi, that just might work. I actually have some old business cards stock (Avery stuff) that I'm not using. I have thin ribbon too.
Thanks for unsticking my brain!!
-
Ok, I KNOW someone can help me out.
Do you have any suggestions on how to affix a label to bath teas?
I have an organza bag large enough to hold the 2 tea bags, but the label won't stick and stay on the bag!!!! There is too much information to go on a hang tag, and my brain is a little stuck right now.....
Maybe slide the paper on the inside of the bag?
-
Yeah I decided i'm not making mp soaps between april-sept because of the sweat factor. In nyc its super humid so i'm not even going to bother. I don't think however mixing any bases together will stop the sweating that is an air factor. Believe me I've been trying to figure out a way to stop that from happening and if anyone else has something let me know. Also just so you know, sfic has a low sweat cp like soap but for me that didn't work. It seemed to be drier but not better than regular mp soap(white/gm)
Hey ladies:
I am across the bridge (or through the tunnel) from Pepperi in good ol' New Jersey and the summers are very humid here. My sfic soaps have "sweated" - I let them dry and as soon as they are set, I shrink wrap them. Of course when they have sat for a while, they do shrink a bit more, and I just hit them with the heat gun again.
I sold some soaps I made in Sept in Dec and didn't have any neg. feedback.
Hope this helps.
some folks put them under a fan too.
-
For those of you who like M&P, what is your favorite base? I've just begun experimenting with soap and I've used Cajun's Shea Butter base. I like it, just wish it would bubble a little more. Is there anything I can add so that it will make more bubbles or do you have any suggestions for other bases that I should try?
Thanks so much for your suggestions.
If you would like to experiment, you can add 1 tsp per pound (give or take experiment to your liking of course) of slsa
http://www.thesage.com/catalog/Additives.html scroll down to "Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate".
I also use SFIC bases, but am going to try WSP silk and shea because of the rave reviews. Plus the fact that I always want to try something new.
-
Michi:
That's exactly what I meant:grin2: . Seems that 10.00 is a lot to pay for 2.5 oz of shea. But, once people understand how little is needed and I'm waiting to see if mine deflate also, then I'll pack more into the jar.
Otherwise, I'll do the proper labeling and try not to worry - if they buy, they buy, if not, hey! At my open house, they'll see how much they're getting anyway.
I just need to relax about the whole thing.:tiptoe:
Thanks!
-
-
That sounds great Candlelishis! I ordered my postcards from Vistaprint. I also send a "save the date" Evite to my friends and associates who are more computer savvy.
-
If you're using the jar size, you have to say "4 fl oz" instead of 4 oz jar. I've seen others labelling by volume before, e.g.
http://store.crabtree-evelyn.com/skin-care-dry-skin-rou23408.html
According to the FDA, since my product is solid/semi-solid the contents needs to be expressed in terms of weight, not volume. (maybe this particular forumulation is liquid at certain temp?)
I've looked at a couple of webbies, and for the most part the jar is labeled "1 oz in a 2 oz jar".
I'm just going to make it simple for myself and put on the website "1 oz" or "2 oz" and skip the whole "in a jar" confusion.
Thanks for all for the suggestions and guidance.
Labels in MS Publisher Question
in Business Side of Things
Posted
Oh, I have MSpub 2003, or I would def. send you the file. I will try the cTRL T - maybe its the autoshape that's having the issue. (And I didn't know about that, so you taught me something today )
Blazerina - thank you so much for the tips!