CandleCouture

Yes, you are correct- CC.

I know the IGI 2281 can and has been used by experienced candlemakers.

It can be used as a base for an outstanding custom formulation.

My question for Brad was on the lowest of the low MP waxes.

I am curious if these waxes are truly suitable for candles. If they might have an oily appearance, I would imagine their FO load would be lower than most. Plus, if the raw material already has an odor, why would anyone attempt to make a candle from it? Inquiring minds would love to know.

I knew that...LOL

Sorry 'bout that. Thought you were talking about the 2281.

This type (2281) is commonly used for candles, I would say. In fact, I would guess it's the base wax for more of the pre-blends out there. A little bit of refining procedures, and, I'm guessing it would make a perfectly suitable (or better) custom blend. I've spoken to a couple of respected candle makers who absolutely swear by it.

Thanks, Mystical. I appreciate your input. To answer your questions, I'm going to be adding roughly 5% crisco and a tiny amount (maybe 0.5% Vybar 260) for purposes of scent retention (as this wax only holds about 5% fo). The Crisco will be added for purposes of glass adhesion, etc. I'm trying to maintain the lowest melt point possible. This wax, on it's own, without additives, is absurdly easy to wick. I'm trying to maintain that as much as possible.

Any suggestions?

I think what you will find is that most printers will have a minimum quantity in order to run a job for you (that would make it cost effective anyway). I'm talking about 5,000 to 10,000 piece minimums--and that's considered a small job.

Have you considered using crystal clear labels instead?

Contact Fairway (Ron) and he would be willing to print a couple of pallets worth of jars for you (Screen print, that is) and, that would probably run you (depending on the glassware), around 2,000 jars.

LOL...How about "Candle Concoction"?

Do you know if it tends to raise the MP? One of the things I like about that wax is the very low melt point. Are there other, comparable, or lower melt point straight paraffins out there?

I'd like to know that also. And, as I asked in another thread, it would probably also require a wick-up?

I have a question for you experienced chandlers. If I were to take a straight paraffin, with a low melt point, like the IGI 2281, and add thing such as Vybar, and Crisco, what effect, if any, would that have on the melt point?

This wax, in preliminary testing, seems to be very easy to wick. Burns VERY easily. What will happen to that, once the other things are added?

One more question. Are there straight paraffins out there with lower melt points than this? I've not found any but would love to hear from you if you have.

There are significantly better prices out there, if you look.

It is definately possible. Archipelago Botanicals has a candle called "Stonehenge" that is black.

Thank you. This was my point the entire time. Namely, there is a big difference between putting a nice marketing spin on things, and passing erroneous information off as fact (burnoff of fragrance oil, etc).

So then is this technically, a para-vegi blend, since Crisco is hydrogenated vegetable oil?

I couldn't afford a wax melter, so I cheated! I use 2 of the big $25.00 roasters from wally world & 3 presto pots. The roasters take way to long to melt the wax, so I melt my wax in the presto pots.... when melted I pour into the roaster... add more wax to presto's & start making candles. By the time that I have all of the roaster wax used, I have melted wax in the presto pots waiting to fill back up the roasters. Not as easy & a large wax melter.... but way less expensive.

Wow. That's an awful lot of trouble to go through. I just feel like, in the long run, my time is worth more to me than that, so, I see the melter as an investment, just like any other.

Dat, do you use a wax similar to the 2288? And, how much vybar and crisco do you add? How does it throw for you?

The Mark VII is $18,500. A bit more investment.

With that disclaimer, can you share who you got it from?

I was searching and some people (Nature's Garden), actually claim that the Crisco helps with scent throw?

"However, if you add 1-2 oz. of crisco shortening per pound of single pour paraffin wax, you will notice an increase in your scent-throw" and this can be found:

http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/mas_assets/ngc/www/import/manual.htm

Just saw this thread and thought you folks should know that I spoke with a gentleman here:

http://www.coogarproducts.com/

They are a manufacturer apparently. Their 25 gallon (150+ pounds) direct heat melter sells for $895. That's by far the best price I've seen. He also claims that their machine only puts out 1000 watts or so at any given time and is extremely well insulated and does not let heat out (thereby making the machine more efficient).

Thought you folks should know, especially the ones that were looking at spending $1000 or more.

I forgot what he said about the warranty but, it was a great one (five years maybe????).

If the purpose is to lower the melting point, with this particular wax, then, isn't it redundant? This is a 123 mp wax, which is pretty low already.

It was recommended that I add 1/4 teaspoon of Crisco and 1/4 teaspoon of Vybar to the above wax. What is the purpose of the Crisco? I know the purpose of the Vybar and know that it will decrease or do away with, the mottling (which doesn't bother me) but, I'm curious as to the purpose of the Crisco.

The second one I burned cured for more than two weeks. No throw. I have a third that I poured that I won't burn until about a month out from the pour date. But, at that point, even if it does throw. Who wants to wait a month for a candle to cure?

I used Eco Wicks in one, and CD's in another and still got ZERO hot throw. I moved these later (which I hadn't previously mentioned), into a small, 10x10 bedroom and still got no throw whatsoever. I stand by my statement that this was was hugely disapointing, in terms of its hot throw.

I would echo what Top said. Alot also depends on the type of container you are using, I would think. Some tend to use the "heat well" to their advantage in creating a quicker melt pool when you get past the top third or so. Some, straight sided tumbler types, don't.

The time varies for me depending on the kind of wick I use.

That's why I asked about the melt pool because, if you are using a wick large enough to get a full melt pool, even if it's after four hours, there's just no real way that you can get 150 hours out of an 8 ounce mason.

I love this scent. However, you will definately have to use 1.5 ounces per pound or more to achieve a GREAT scent throw.

Are you getting a full melt pool all the way around? If so, I can't imagine that burn time being accurate. Maybe recheck your numbers?