obsessed
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Posts posted by obsessed
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On 8/16/2017 at 11:07 PM, moonshine said:
Thanks everyone
I am not a double wicker- lol
I will try a few with a single wick and maybe try my parasoy blend in them being able to wick smaller than plain soy- but then again with these new lots of soy I have to wick down so maybe it will work ?♀️
the lids..... well I love them but.....think if the jar end up working out for one of my blends and end up loving them I will be getting the bronze lids from CS, I'm just not liking that these don't seal, at least they came with jars for a reasonable price so I won't be out too much
Hi Moonshine ... are you going to try parasoy because the glass is thin? Just trying to understand the difference. I am struggling wicking some glassware at the moment and was wondering the reason behind this. thanks x
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1 hour ago, njcurley said:
I can confirm what jcandleattic said, today I brought a candle to work to give to a friend. It is what I consider a "dud", it had a major wet spot and I HATE THEM! She is a major candle addict (I have converted her from Yankee to me) and is also a major OCD/picky person. She looked at the candle and asked me what was wrong with it, my response "look at the huge wet spot". Response: Whats a wet spot, I don't see anything wrong with this candle. She then insisted on paying my usual price for the candle.
Hahaha love it! thanks everybody! I won't stress then , I tohught maybe it was just in the curing period they appeared , but if not , as you guys say , DANG IT! LOL I just boughtsome beautiful glassware and its all clear ... something I dont usually bother with because of this reason. I wont fiddle around trying to keep my babies warm at night then if they are all going to go that way anyway.
Stuff 'em!
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Hi guys ... just wondering if there is ANYTHING I can do to help prevent these bloody wet spots?! I am using GW464 soy wax ... heating to 90c adding f/o around 80c and pouring . I tried pouring cooler , but my tops don't look as smooth. I use 8-9% f/o... it is winter where I live and I have a combustion fire going in the day . At night I put lids on and huddle them together ... but my hubby left the hall door open and it was freezing in the morning .... wet spots started
they are growing! LOL I have a bit of clar glass I wanted to make up for xmas , but they look so ugly
.Any advice would be greatly appreciated! thanks
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On 7/18/2017 at 3:08 AM, TallTayl said:
I totally get that.
The problem I often get with using bigger wicks to work on the jar is diminished or distorted scent throw.
Oh how I love all of the info on here!! I learn something new every time. I have been on a local Facebook candle site ( and I know how you all love those!! NOT! LOL) and am shocked at the difference in advice. I always feel on here , that the advice is from highly experienced , knowledgable people. There usually aren't conflicting messages , or recommendations so grossly deviating from manufacturers recommendations , that it makes you wonder just what is going on!! Thankyou again guys for teaching me something a. true b. new and c. useful! LOL PS. and the spelling and grammar soothes my soul heheheheee
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11 hours ago, TallTayl said:
Glad to read your throw is improved with a smaller wick.
It happened to me just this week with two different blends. When slightly underwicked the soy candle threw as strongly as a wax melt. I wicked up a size to see what would happen - if it would achieve a nice melt pool. As soon as it reached a melt pool that others on this board and Facebook desire, the throw was diminished to nothing. Zero.
TT when you underwicked , did you end up with hangup on the sides? I am testing some Libby Capstan jars ( like a large squat votive) and am happy with the burn , yet the hangup is really annoying me. If I go up in wick , it will be too much. Is it possible to get no hangup and small flame?! LOL I don't know how to shrink my photos to put on here!
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17 hours ago, TallTayl said:
Is this it?
Maximum Diameter 3 7/8 Inches Top Diameter 3 1/8 Inches Capacity 15 oz. Color Clear Dishwasher Safe Yes Made in America Yes Material Glass Shape Round Type Rocks Glasses Customer questions about this product
if so, that will build a lot of heat due to the shape and material. I would wick that one for the top, personally. I would start with a cd10 or cdn12 (CDN burn slightly cooler than cd in my experiments with soy). Then I'd adjust from there after I got through the first burn of the entire candle.
Yes , that the one! You are a gem ... thankyou so much for that. I haven't made one this shape before. I will get cracking!
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Hi TT ... I can't look it up as the company has closed and I got them last minute! They are about 9.5cm diameter at the widest I think ... 30cm circumference. I was thinking maybe a Cdn 22 -24?
just smashed one .... arrgghh ... now I have 23!
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I have just bought some beautiful Libbey 238 Rocks glasses and am struggling to decide where to start with wicks. I am using GW464 and CDN or HTP wicks .... the glass widens at the bottom , so I am not sure where to start at choosing a wick. Should I go for one that may fit the middle of the glass , or wick to accomodate the wider bottom? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
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Hi wthomas .. I have read all through this , as I have also been struggling with sooting 4630. What was you concensus on blending the 6006/4630? I am a little lost in the ratios , have you tested them yet? I loove your mottled candles , so pretty. Not sure if I can buy that here
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I was laughing out loud reading this! The sock and then the nutter who likes a full melt pool LOL Just had an image of his ideal job .... at McDonalds making the fries!
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On 5/28/2017 at 0:07 AM, TallTayl said:
My new cases of C3 have been very challenging to wick. My wax flakes seem soft and almost damp, as opposed to dry and crispy like the past few years.
I have been posting wick tests to demo.
http://www.craftserver.com/topic/109672-wax-and-wick-test-1-c3-soy-wax/#comment-1029518
TT I am very impressed with your wick tests! I am going to do some ... I have found that CDN's from different wholesalers all burn differently ...something I was not aware of. Does the cold weather affect the burn also? It seems that what was working is now really slow ... I'm on a facebook group here and a lot of people are telling everyone to wick up in winter. Is this true? thanks x
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23 hours ago, TallTayl said:
How new is the case of C3?
I bought it in April
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21 hours ago, TallTayl said:
I would test using 1/2 or even 1/3 of the wax. It will give you an idea of how that candle will behave further down. Tall containers are very challenging to wick, if they look good at the top, they may quickly look not so great further down the container.
I did not not see what wax, fragrance, colorants, etc you are using in this jar.
17 hours ago, Trappeur said:That jar (status) only needs 1 wick. In that size jar using 464 I use 1 (cd14) and some cd 12's. If you can get thecdns I would start out with either a cdn 10 or cdn 12. If you can do three testers side by side I would do the cdn 10, 12 and 14. But that is with not knowing what wax you use.....like I said I use 464.
Can you get the htp 83's? If you can try starting with that wick.....(still need to know what wax your using)
Trappeur
Sorry guys ... I made 1 x C3 with 8% Lemongrass/Persian Lime F/O ( double wicked with CDN14 - have previously tried 2x CDN10 and they never touched the sides!) AND also made a 464 with CDN24 single wick . This time I took your advice and heated both to 185f added oil at thAT temp or near , then poured at around 160f. The CDN24 was recommended for that jar by the wholesaler ... they both have an awesome cold throw and are lovely and smooth. Not sure how they will compare when burning. I have noticed my C3 wax has fizzy looking bubbles sometimes when it gets down the jar and it's hot. Is this normal? I don't remember it happening before. I really liked 464 and notice a lot of you favour it . i was a bit dubious to try it as I thought it would get funny tops ... but happy so far. WHen I find out how to reduce my photos to attach on here , I will post some! LOL
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On 2/12/2017 at 6:26 AM, Trappeur said:
Here are a few pictures of the mini round mason jar I'm trying so hard to wick.
Jar size: 1 3/4" at top of jar
2 3/4" at widest part of th3 jar
3 1/4" high
Wax: 464
Wicks: Cd 3 and cd 4
Problem: The cd3 is good and gets a good melt pool but the flame is very wimpy and looks like it's not going to stay lit....but it does.....it struggles throughout the burnings and as it got to the end it strengthened and the flame was good, but I wasn't satisfied through the entire burn. The heat on the jar of the cd 3 was perfect. Not cool and not mad hot...just perfect.
The cd 4 was just too strong a wick. Jar was just too hot. Melt pool too deep -almost 1/2".
I trimmed the wick on this cd 4 during a long power burn and this candle did absolutely beautiful and you could pickup no problem as long as I tended to the candle. But not trimmed and burned the way a customer would, it was way too hot. So I can't do this candle in a cd 4 for that purpose alone.
Both melt pools on both cd 3's and cd 4 I would say were the same though. 3/8" to almost 1/2". I like to keep my melt pool depths to 3/8.
Another problem with both wicks......NO THROWS what so ever! Now this is a first for me.
I used for fragrances: Chocolate from Flaming and RE mixed.....(I mix these 2 together and burn in a 16oz canning jar and great throw.)....Not here.
Hazelnut coffee from Flaming - No throw - but is a great seller again for me in a 16oz canning jar.
Lemon verbena from Flaming - No throw - but again I've been using for years and is a great thrower in other jars.
How is it possible to have no fragrance throw in the mini masons and yet be great throwers in other jars? This is a first for me. They all cured for 2 weeks also.
My conclusion I have come to is I need an inbetween size between the cd 3 and cd 4 and I think it would be great. But so now I have to do another completely different wick and I have no idea what to get or even what size as I don't use anything else.
I just made up 4 more jars last night and did something I don't normally do. Added more oil. I always do 1 pound of wax for 1 ounce oil. I did 1 pound of wax with 1.3 ounce of oil. And testing again with the cd3 and 4.
Here are the jars I'm testing:
This is the 2'nd day of a test burn - 4 hours.
The mini is on the left with a cd 4.
And the jar on the right is another new round mason (8oz) - cd 12
Day 3 - 4 hour burn
Jar on left is a cd 3 - jar on right is a cd 4
Look at the wimpy flame on the left
Day 4 - 7 hours (doing a power burn)
Left candle is a cd 3 - wimpy flame
Middle candle is a cd 4 (but I have trimmed the wick durning this burning) - doing great...
Right candle - cd 4 (wick not trimmed)
your candles look so pretty and I love your labels. Did you end up sorting out the wicks for these? I have some jam jars I have saved and I want to make some candle in them. Very similar shape ... will be interested in hearing how you went! Just something else I was collecting LOL
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Hi , I have been having trouble wicking an XL Metro jar 385g ( very close to USA Libbey Status jar 12.25oz) . I have tried HTP XL100 and double wicking with 2x CDN10. The HTP xl100 was too big ... the 2x CDN10 were way too small. The jar takes so much wax , it's expensive trying to get even close. Should I persevere single wicking , double or even triple wick? Am only able to buy HTP or CDN wicks. Any advice would greatly be appreciated. I have a friend who really wants me to make some for her! ( the internal top diameter is 83mm / 3.26" )
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OMG ... do you think crafty people have serious hoarding issues?! I've only been doing candles for about a year and one large rolling tub has now grown to two. They're in the bottom of my kitchen pantry as I have nowhere else to hide them ... so obvious when my hubby looks for snacks! LOL If only I could pare down my huge fabric stash ... and then mabye my paints ... there would be some room!
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38 minutes ago, TallTayl said:
Those were just not the right wicks for that wax.
I need to get those top wicks into tins and glass. Will try to get to tha today.
the wood wicks? they look great. I can only find 2 types of wicks here ... HTP and CDN. (wood wicks also available). USA has so much more choice .... my friend lived in Pittsburg for 3 years and when she came home ,she found it hard to adjust to the lack of variety in everything! LOL After reading so many wick blogs on here , I am worried about not being able to get my wicks just right . Do you know if CDN are the same as your CD wicks by any chance? I have seen them called CDN Stabilo and CDN Stabilo KST ..
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On 2/10/2017 at 8:26 AM, moonshine said:
I like that performa and RRD in tray 1- nice flames by looks of the picture But is that a mushroom I see on the RRD...curious because they do for me, it's hard on my phone to really see
this is so awesome- all the time your taking to do these tests for us! Thank you
amd tray 2....they all were sputtering out by hour 2?
hi ... did you figure out why your wicks in tray 2 were struggling after 2 hours? I love the idea of testing in a tray.
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On 3/9/2017 at 11:49 AM, Natasha2106 said:
Thank you for all your replies and assistance.
i am just testing htp 72, so will let you know how it goes. I love the igi 4630 wax as this is the best for scent throw. I will try a lower rate of fragrance and see if that makes a difference. That would certainly be great too, as the fragrance was very expensive, so if I can use less - BONUS!!Will keep you all posted with the 72 testing.
thanks again x
Hi Natasha ..how did you go with the HTP72's? I am having trouble with wicking large jars too. are you selling the ones using 4630? do people mind it being all paraffin? I have used it and love the scent throw too , but it does burn fast and hot. I blended it also ...60% 464 / 40% 4630. It came out a lovely creamy texture and so far the burn has been really smooth and no hangups. I just did EROMA's White Musk and it is just like the Body Shops' ... am really happy with it. Let me know how you get on with the double wicking. x https://www.eroma.com.au/learning/guides/wicks/ here is Eroma's wick guide using soy waxes incl. HTP72
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12 hours ago, obsessed said:
how is that so Flicker? If you added a fragrance above its flashpoint , how come it doesn't evaporate off? Please excuse my ignorance ,but there are thousands of different stories about adding fragrance! What is you advice on it? DO you recommend a set temp? thankyou
please dont bother replying... I re-read everything and I get it now! LOL Sorry to be a pest ... I was writing that really late at night. I will NOT ask anyomre questions about flashpoint fragrance adding!! I promise! LOL
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On 5/18/2017 at 1:51 AM, TallTayl said:
Flashpoint has zero to do with the temp you add to the molten wax. Flashpoint is the temperature at which the oil will combust if introduced to a spark or flame.
Do do yourself a big favor and add the fragrance to the wax at the right temp for the wax. Too cool and the fragrance will not fully mix into the wax potentially leaving pockets of unblended fragrance or weeping fragrance which can easily flare making for a very dangerous candle. Ever see the surface of a candle catch fire because of seeping fragrance? I have. Not a fun sight.
thanks again TT! you are my saviour on here LOL I get that about the flame .. as you can see, science is not my forte' in life ! Am loving this website so much ... it's so good tobe able to actually get a response from someone one has been there and done that. I have asked some of my candle wholesalers about their prdoucts and they dont have a clue. i bought some coconut wax and asked the lady what was it used for ... she said lots of people buy it to make nicer candles LOL!!! thanks again everyone on her for helping out the beginners like me
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9 hours ago, TallTayl said:
Yes, at least coconut 76 or even fractionated coconut.
Sorry TT to be such a pest , I have a jar of basic health food coconut oil , which I assume is the 76. ( I googled 76 and thats the reg melt point?) .. so what you're saying basically is to use one that either doesn't solidify (fractionated) or one with a low melt point? I bought some coconut wax , which I think is blended with soy. It is very soft . I am assuming the oil then would be a better alternative to the wax then. Is this correct?
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On 5/18/2017 at 2:10 AM, TallTayl said:
Adding liquid soy oil to smooth the appearance of soy wax makes sense. Soy wax is partially hydrogenated soy oil. Over time soy wax dries out a LOT. The dry texture looks frosty. Plus adding a liquid oil to the wax changes how the wax crystals (grains) form as the molten wax cools.
WOuld you class Coconut Oil as a liquid oil ... as it is liquid above a certain temp?
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On 5/18/2017 at 4:58 AM, Flicker said:
Thank you, thank you, thank you! When I worked at BC doing tech support I can't tell you how many times I was told a person was mixing an FO into the wax at 120 because that is what the FP was. FP is irrelevant when mixing wax and FO. It really only applies in candle making with gel, and there are other criteria there as well as being non polar but not because of fear of flash while mixing.
Folks need to understand the shipping component in relation to FP. Every carrier type is different as well. Air/Ground etc.
how is that so Flicker? If you added a fragrance above its flashpoint , how come it doesn't evaporate off? Please excuse my ignorance ,but there are thousands of different stories about adding fragrance! What is you advice on it? DO you recommend a set temp? thankyou
Stuff 'em!
they are growing! LOL I have a bit of clar glass I wanted to make up for xmas , but they look so ugly
Help!! Please critique my candle
in General Candle Making Discussions
Posted
that's frosting I think Britt. It happens with soy and is much more noticeable with colours. I don't think there's a lot you can do about it. I also am in Aust. and find this worse with the cold. I haven't yet found how to avoid it ... so I make mostly natural candles! LOL If I'm wrong , please someone else jump in! I love this website ... it's so friendly an informative.