YAMS

2 hours ago, bfroberts said:

I've personally wasted a lot of time and a lot of supplies doing the wrong things, and I've been where you are.  One hard lesson to learn is that more FO is not better.  If I were you, I would drop down to 1 oz per pound, use a known powerhouse performing FO, cure for several days, then see what you've got.  Figure out the wicking at 1 oz PP, and then if you must, test with incrementally higher FO load to see what happens.  I think you're gonna have problems start to finish if you try to use max FO load, especially out of the gate. 
I have not used your wax, but I have used a lot of 4630 and 6006.  Both, regardless what I've read, do benefit from a decent cure.   For 4627, I would cure for several days, even though they say you don't have to.  With the 4630 and the 6006, there IS a difference in the way the candle burns, and that can affect your throw and your wicking, and I can't imagine 4627 would differ all that much in this regard. 
I heat to 190ish, add dye, stir, add FO, stir.  My wax cools off ridiculously fast so I usually stir in my dye and FO while it's still on the heat source.  I pour about 180ish.

This comment bring me to two important questions that I have wanted to ask.  You say to start with superpower FOs.  I don't have a clue which FOs are superpower other than the two I mentioned above.  Is that somewhere here a list or a post that I can find which ones perform that great without having to spend so much money on testers?   Also, you may have made me realize that I am doing somethings different lately!!!!!!?    The last two pours i have been removing the wax from the heat source before adding the Dye and the FO.  Why???? Because I can never gage the exact amount of wax that I heat to fill the number of containers I need to fill.  If I add the Dye and the FO and I have too much in the heating container I basically have to dispose the wax with dye and FO or worse I may end up with too little for my containers.   I hope I am explaining correctly.   How do you work through this?  How do you weigh your wax when it's still solid to know you will have enough or not too much when it's melted????   This on my mind every time I do a pour but never posted the question.  Thanks for lighting my bulb my friend.  Sorry for so much writing.  Trying to explain it as well as I can.   Txs again.  ?

4 hours ago, Jcandleattic said:

I don't use this wax, but rule of thumb would be to start out with what the manufacture recommends for this wax, which should be provided by your supplier. 

Most single pour waxes you would heat to about 190 ish, then add your dye at this temp (if it's a block) to help it dissolve, and the FO anywhere from 175-180 ish. Honestly this is just a guess though, from me reading other's posts, since I don't use this wax. 

 

I have read your other posts where you are having problems with HT, and I know this doesn't sound logical, but sometimes using too high of a % of FO could cause your candle to not throw. Me personally, I would start out with the lowest % you could to get a decent throw. Not only does this help with your bottom line if you want to ever start selling, but it is also just GMP. Too much and your FO could not mix with the wax or seep out. This is especially true with the heavier fragrances, and that could then become a hazardous candle. Too much and it could bind up too much with the wax, which could be causing the issues with no HT. It's hard to say. I personally never use more than 6% in my candles. For me, if a scent will not throw at that % then it is not a good enough scent for me, and I move on. I know others use higher % and that's fine, it's what works for them, and you may find a higher % works for you as well, but when having issues, it's always best to adjust. That's why we test, 

Good luck! 

 

This is great information.  It does make sense I've read about too much FO but I had forgotten that.  I have been adding 9% to 11% with my Very Vanilla and Mcintosh Apple both from CS.  I used the same % with Oakmoss and Amber and Peppermint Eucalyptus and epic fail.  They don't smell at all or barely.  I will refer back to the instructions for 4627 again to make sure but the temperatures you mentioned are the ones I use.  Except that a couple of times it has spiked to 200 and I haven't removed it in time.  This information is great.  Impressed that you even took the type to read my other posts.  I love the support I've been getting here.   

Hi guys,

I have read different posts on using 4627.  Some of you use different temperatures for heating, mixing FOs and pouring for this wax.  What method do you get the best results with this wax?  I like to use max FO % possible.   How much do you heat it to? At what temperature do you add the FO? When do you add your dye? At what temperature do you pour?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks all 

6 hours ago, moonshine said:

Are you using the same exact method as the ones you did have good throw with?

:same amount of FO and cure time?

Did these FOs all come from the same supplier?

what type of wax are you using....I can only speak for soy as I am newer in parasoy but the soy will test your limits with throw, there are some that just don't work and I have found in my experience that many come from the the same supplier 

 

Yes.  Same method same amount of FO.  Maybe 3 days less of curing than the ones that worked.  Same company.    Other than the small change of curing time everything else is the same.  I can almost tell by the faint scent during the curing phase that it is not going to have good results .  Can 3 days make such a difference? I use IGI 4627.   The FOs I am talking about are FOs that get very good reviews for instance Blue Spruce and Peppermint Eucalyptus from CS which I have seen nothing but good reviews in HT.  Ugh!!!  Frustrating.  Makes me feel better that you've also gone through this.  Encourages  me to hang in here.  Thanks 

I am a little  sad today.  New to candles and my first tests (like 4 different FOs) were great.  All of a sudden all downhill.  The latest FOs I've tested have resulted in no HT.  I've read about the FOs in question and people seem to have great results with them.  So that tells me it's not the FO but something I am doing wrong.  The thing is I haven't changed anything I did before. It's getting expensive to test the same fragrances so many times specially when I do t sell my candles so I don't recover the expense. I don want to get discouraged because I am enjoying making candles but it's getting a little frustrating.  Any suggestions??? 

Is mushroom  always a sign or result of overwicking? 

On 10/10/2016 at 2:55 PM, Moonstar said:

Thank you for sharing. I found both your answer + explanation very helpful. I never would of thought measuring on the diagonal. If I may ask a question, is the proper

way to measure the diameter of a container from the outside rim or the actual inside opening - does that make sense ??? lol ! TYIA  

Good question and I agree great advice.  

On 10/10/2016 at 2:32 PM, Flicker said:

I think if you measure that jar on the diagonal you will find in reality it is closer to 4" from corner to corner. In IGI 4627 I have always found that zinc core wicks do well. If I were using that jar, I would space two 44-24-18 so that the wick tabs are almost touching in the bottom of the container and spaced so they are going corner to corner versus side to side. Anything that wide really will either need to be burned a very long time (not realistic) or use two wicks to properly burn for most folks. This method has been one I have found to work well really in all the single pour waxes over the past 20 years.

Thanks Flicker.  I will put that to the test he next time for sure.  Thanks 

Do you guys find that adding color dye (liquid or blocks) to your candles affects the performance? specially the HT?  

Geez, I am full of questions today...    Do you guys use on your candles the name that supplier uses for that specific fragrance or do you change it to your own names?    Not sure if using the same name is ethical/appropriate?  I am new to all this.   Thanks 

Do you all use additives to improve the HT and overall performance of the candles?  If so, which one and why?  Thanks guys

3 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

I use 6006, and 60z usually works in these jars.  If you have to double wick, I would use 36-24's. 

Perfect.  I will order some 36s.  Thanks 

1 minute ago, Moonstar said:

CSN OR CDN ? Never heard of CSN . Is adding CBA for HT ? 

Interesting ?

What is CBA???

45 minutes ago, GoldieMN said:

This is kind of off topic, but I am so afraid to use a glass container for selling candles that is not from a container company advertised as a candle container or as a container made for canning which to me means it is tempered for heat.  Do these containers have a label indicating they are for candles?  Please do not think I am criticizing your choice.  I would love to use different containers.  I found a source for the hobnail pint jars but such a chicken about using them for candles since they don't fit the above criteria.

Goldie

I have always used them and they perform great.  Never get hot, it is a thick glass.  I know that many people here use it.   The ones I get from DT have a Libby sticker but other times I have found them without the sticker and they look and work the same.  I am very comfortable using them but I understand you.  I have found some really nice containers and I haven't bought them because of the reason.  

I thought of continuing with this question on my previous post of double wicking but I figured I add it as a separate post.   So far wicking status jars, mason jars, jelly jars, etc have been going well.  My problem child continues to be my Dollar Tree square jars.  They measure 3 1/2".  Picture below.   I have attempted to wick with:  1 LX 20, 2 LX 14, (both under wicked), 1 60-44-18 zinc (under wicked), 2 60-44-18 (over wicked), 1 62-44-18 zinc (with this one is either over wicked or under wicked depending on FO and color).  I only use Comfort Blend 4627.  I may consider not using it anymore but I really like it plus it is very inexpensive, good quality and readily available to me.  Do any of you work with this container?  What works for you?    

3 hours ago, wthomas57 said:

Agreed. As I said... a bucket, or a small pale at the very least. 

That makes sense.  I will follow that going forward.   

I was wondering how everyone feels about this FO.   It has a beautiful scent but I get barely any HT.   I use 4627 Comfort Blend from CS.   Status jar with one 60-44-18 zinc wick.  Colored it blue/green (beautiful color) but barely smells.   Heated to 200 and poured at 185 as I always do with this wax.   Any thoughts?  Your experiences if you have used it?  Thanks 

20 hours ago, katmeltswax said:

The Flaming candle company has good quality oils

I received a email they have recently added 4 new scents North Pole ,Juniper Breeze, Hansel & Gretel's House & Alpine Cheer BBW type. Use coupon code HELLOOCTOBER16 for a 10% discount. I also think Candlewic has some new ones as well. Aztec introduction price $11 a lb for Yankee type "Autumn in the Park". I have way to many oils & just cannot pass up a bargain lol .I thought I would let you all know about these new fall  scents.

Kat,

Thanks for the information.   I am with you.  I have so many scents to try and yet I can't pass up a deal... Ugh!  Is an addiction with no available rehab program to effectively treat it... Lol.  

On 9/25/2016 at 3:20 PM, bfroberts said:

 

The cube jars that were in stock at my Dollar Tree were Libbey.  They had the Libbey sticker on the bottom.  There were also several other Libbey containers in stock, but the status jars in stock were varied.  Some status jars had no sticker on the bottom and some had the Made In Colombia sticker on the bottom.  My store had no Libbey status jars in stock and hasn't for a long time.  I have heard reports that some DT do have them.  IDK.

 

I have ordered from DT online several times.  What you get varies.  I have ordered and received Libbey's status jar.  I've ordered and received the Made In Colombia status and I've also ordered and received status jars with no labels.  I assume this means they have several suppliers for this jar, because it all jives with what I, and others, have seen in store.  I ordered 2 cases of jars at 4th of July, and what I received were two cases of the unlabeled jars.

 

I had one case of status (and I do not remember which brand - just that it wasn't the Libbey) that had bubbles in the base.  Not all of them, just a few and a few had flaws around the lip.  Nothing major, and nothing I would hesitate to sale, but the quality was lesser by a degree.  I guess you get what you get.

 

From time to time, DT will run a $4.95 shipping sale.  It usually coincides with a holiday.  The last sale was Labor Day weekend.  I usually take advantage of the sale to order cases of things we use at our campground, magic erasers mostly...lol...because they never have as many as I need at the store.  I do order the status jars from time to time.  I use wooden lids that I purchase elsewhere, so lack of a lid doesn't matter to me. 

FYI EVERYONE, DOLLAR TREE IS RUNNING A SHIPPING SALE OF $4.95.  THIS IS THE SALE YOU MENTIONED HERE.  I ORDERED STATUS JARS.... YAY!!!!!!!

FYI EVERYONE, DOLLAR TREE IS RUNNING A SHIPPING SALE OF $4.95.  THIS IS THE SALE YOU MENTIONED HERE.  I ORDERED STATUS JARS.... YAY!!!!!!!

16 hours ago, wthomas57 said:

Hey there YAMS..

 

I would strongly consider you do some more testing. I know you said you just do this for friends and family, but either way... you dont want to make dangerous candles. Double wicking with 60-44-18 is insane! Unless your using... like a bucket... for your container.    I double wick my big metal pale citronella candles with 62s simply because you want bigger hotter smokier wicks for outdoor citronella candles.  But using 2 60-44s in a regular jar is way too much! That jar is going to get super hot, your gonna have tons of soot and smoke. Perhaps not on all of them... but overall that is way too much wick. I use 6006 which requires more wicking than 4627 and still would never come close to double wicking with z60s. Those are my thoughts on it... Id definitely wick down to be honest. Maybe try like 32s or 44s?

 

also...

 

cranberry marmalade is awesome.

I very much dislike very vanilla (way to rich). actually makes me nauseous. Most people I have asked didn't care for it either. 

And FWIW... Macintosh Apple is a stape among fragrances. One of the easier fragrances to wick, performs great in almost anything.. strong though.

Hey WThomas, 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Thinking about it you are right.  They perform well so far but it makes sense that it is way too much wicking.   I will go down to 32s or 44s.  I ready to order some.   I recently made some Cintronellas for my backyard and ironically I used one z60.  Geez, that's when it called for two.  Lol.   

I agree with Very Vanilla, my friends either LOVE it or HATE it.   Macintosh Apple is the bomb!!!!  I am hooked on it.  

Again, thanks for passing the knowledge to newbies like me.   

6 hours ago, Belinda said:

I have a few from Lone Star but don't usually order much from them. Theirs do seem to be weak in my opinion. I do like butternut pumpkin, bergamot, caribbean escape, christmas hearth, (I like the one from CS too) cranberry kettle corn, cranberry peppermint, dickens christmas, they have a good leather, and there are a few more that I thought were good and strong. I'm basing the above on their strength because these aren't usually the type of scents I want to buy but I've used these from LS and they had a good throw to them. I"m a bakery type person myself and from what I can remember I didn't have good luck with the bakery scents they have that I've tried. 

Thanks Belinda.  I took notes of the FOs you mentioned to give them a try

On 10/1/2016 at 7:09 PM, Moonstar said:

Ive never ordered from Lodestar or Northstar but many from CS. I totally agree about CS - their Fo's just smell so high quality. Of course theres a few 

I've ordered that I didn't care for but that was a personal preference only. What type of scents do you gravitate to ? 

I tend to like the musky, woody scents but I do like to buy the fruity types because a lot of my family members like them.  I agree, if I haven't totally liked a scent from CS is because of my personal preference not because of CT or HT quality.  

So i guess the magic word here is Dawn.... I do the same but I don't use soap detergent. I have always tried with alcohol.  I will use Dawn going forward.   I do not sell my candles.  It is for my personal use and family and friends (gifting). Thanks guys

Very silly question but if there is one thing I hate to do is wipe out old remaining of wax in order to reuse my jars.  What do you find to be the easiest way?  As of now, I reheat them in the oven and use a paper napkin to clean the jar but then it takes forever to wipe it totally clean.   I know there are more important questions to ask but UGH!!! I hate doing this.   Thanks