tlc

Hello Laura and welcome to the board!

I use Ecosoya CBA and it is fairly easy to work with. Here is a link that has more info on this wax: http://www.ngiwax.com/ProductInformation/CB-AdvancedSoy.php . You will find that some fo's don't do well in this wax and some that work great, but that is true with other types of soy wax. I have found from the ones that I have tested (and I am no expert by a long shot) that they all have their "quirks". It is just a matter of what you are willing to deal with. Don't kid yourself though, you will "waste" money testing out different types until you find what works for you but that's part of the learning curve. This is real fun and very addicting. Good luck!

Can you post a picture? We would love to see it!

These are the pix of the second batch that I poured on Saturday. I made sure that the jars were warm (about 140 degrees plus or minus) this time. I didn't put a box over them to cool but I did put them in the oven. I used brown liquid dye and Banana Nut Bread fo. The cold throw is good but I will have to wait to test the hot throw.

http://www.atvbarn.com/atvbarn.htm

It seems like this wax shrinks a little more that the CBA wax that I have been using. The tops are as smooth as the CBA which I really like. I am not sure what to think about outward appearance of the wax in the jar. There are what appear to be cracks in the wax on the bottom of one of the jars. Not sure why. Maybe this will get better with experience.

Ok, i must have still been half asleep or just brain dead when i posted this, but, i am using the EZ soy, dont know where i came up with the other wax, sorry for the confusion. I will change my other post with the right wax.

I have not used this wax but someone who does will pick up on this thread and help. Good luck!

I get my wax from BCS, Hope thats what you were asking..lol

I went to their website and this is what they list for Ecosoya:

CB Advanced

Cb 135

PB

Here is the link: http://www.bittercreeksouth.com/waxes.htm

I have been using Ecosoy, and in some candles, i get a big hole around the wick. It doesnt happen with every candle i pour, but the ones it does do it in, the hole goes all the way to the bottom, but there is a film that covers it at the top. I am adding the same amount of fo in all candles, about 1 1/4 oz per pound of wax. Anyone have any suggestions that would help with this?

Is this CBA wax?

You're welcome for the tip - learned that here!

I just reviewed the thread and realized you're using the 93 in both jars. I'd do what Carrie suggests for wicks, try twisting them 2 or 3 times before putting them in the jar, and then burn all the way down. Both jars get hotter during the second (bottom) half of the burn, especially the square mason (mine do anyway). You might even want to pour 2 square masons, 1 with a 104 and 1 with a 105, just to see the difference in how they do all the way to the end.

If it was me, I'd also add some FO so that's getting tested at the same time - might as well have a finished candle when you're all done.

Today I added color and fo when I poured. I twisted the wicks on all jars but a little to much on a couple and the wicks came loose from the tabs (they were already stuck to the jars) after I poured. I used htp 105 in one and a 104 in the other so I guess I did good. Any idea how long I should cure them before I test? I am hoping with this pour that I don't get any cracks. Time will tell. Now I just need to wait, wait, wait and wait some more...

I never thought of twisting the wicks. Sounds like a pretty good idea. I will give it a try with the next pour. I will need to wick up on the sq mason for sure. It has a ton of hang up now and will never catch up. The 8 oz jj is burning good and clean now. No hang up, just a slight film on the glass. I am almost thinking of wicking down on that jar. Thanks for the tip!

Here is an update with better a pix.

http://www.atvbarn.com/atvbarn.htm

This is after the second burn.

I am going to check the second burn but you guys are probably right in thinking that I will need to wick up. I have 104's and 105's (htp) to wick up with if I need too. I started with the 93 because I have had the most experience with them. As far as the fo goes, I tossed it around but then decided to do it naked (not me but the wax, don't want to scare the neighbors ) to get a base line. Holly, I could send you a pound of wax to test if you want. Just let me know. Thanks for the tips peeps.

I was wondering what those who do high volumes do to avoid jump lines with their repour. I use a soy that I have to do a repour. I find that if I do not zap each container individually on top before I repour I will get jump lines and then I have to fix those. It is not a real quick zap either to warm them up -- have to do it gradually so I do not aggravate the soy too much. This is REALLY timecomsuming with just the amount of candles I make. I especially have this problem in the winter because my candles get real cold during the night in the shop -- can't leave heat on all night -- would cost a fortune. Is there a special less timeconsuming trick I do not know about? If I ever do get real busy, I can't imagine having to do this with A LOT of candles at one time. Thanks for any advise.

Hi Holly :smiley2: I don't know a thing about 2 pour wax but have you thought about using a heating pad from a waterbed to keep your candles warm at night? Not sure if that would work. Might be more hassle than it's worth but thought I would ask.

Wow, Holly! Your eyes are GOOOD! LOL

Yep she sure does. She had eagle eyes .

Thanks TLC for the update. I see the cracks. You are right, you may need to warm the jars a little more or have them cool a little slower. Also, I find (not with my soy, but with some other blends) that I can get cracks when I pour and then later turn the my candle room heat off for the night in the shop. It gets really cold in the shop. We leave the heater on in the main part of the shop and I leave a window open in my candle shop/room. We only leave it on 45 though. We have a loft so the heat can go up and travel down the stairs to my candle shop/room too.

I wonder how the frosting would be. They are white so it is hard to tell. Let us know how the throw is when you know. Thanks!

Hi Holly. :smiley2: I don't know how you test your candles but after the first 4 hr burn I did see some slight hang up. I am using the htp wicks and the hang up is on the opposite side of the curl of the wick. Maybe it will catch up with the next burn. I am going to pour some with fo and color (in heated jars) in the next day or two. I will keep updating this post as I go along. :smiley2:

Are the cracks in the wax or the glass?? I can't tell.

No. The glass is not cracked. I will try to get a better pix later today.

For those of you who are interested I poured these a couple of days ago. These aren't the best pix but might give you some of idea of what to expect.

If you look at the square mason, right under the "M" you will see what I would guess to be a crack for lack of a better description. The tall jj has the same effect close to the bottom of the jar and to the right of the word "Ball". I am now thinking that maybe the jars weren't warm enough and that may be from shock. The tops came out real smooth but I did notice a very, very faint crack from the wick extending to the side of the sq. mason. I wicked using htp 93, no fo or color. I have them testing right now and so far they look pretty good. I had posted a question earlier about cutting the slab and but found that the wax was pretty easy to cut especially because my hubby did it

One thing to keep in mind with the shipping rates that a company charges is, how big is the company? If they are a smaller company chances are they don't have enough volume to qualify for better rates with let's say UPS for example. Not your fault as the end user but it is still a fact of life as some of you are finding out with your own sales. I have been fighting with UPS to get a better rate so we can pass it along but we don't do enough volume. I thought that $12,000 would be enough to qualify but no. I have been trying to get FedEx to call me back for the last two months and so far I'm still waiting. Ok I'm over my little rant here . We rarely use USPS as an option because we use a PO Box for our mailing addy (due to mail theft) and it is a real pain to go to the PO and wait in line. I hate it. I would rather spend that time making money (working) than standing around waiting. I just wouldn't save enough to offset the time. However, we will use them for APO's for the peeps in the armed forces.

I read on some supplier's site to stick the wax in the freezer for a bit and then drop the box on the floor to shatter it. Don't know how much you have though.

At this point I have 5 11Lb slabs. Putting it in the freezer will keep me busy and out of trouble for a while Thanks!

Try making a garrot from wire and dowls. Then heat it over a flame and see if you can use it. That's what I used when I was still doing parrifin. Worked well for me. What a pain though. I'm glad those days are over for me.

Fire

I was kinda thinking along those lines. I think I am going to have my work cut out for me though.

Thanks for the tip

My new wax from Swan's came today (Accu-Soy) but how in the heck do I cut the stuff? I have been spoiled with the CBA being in flake form. I knew it would be in slab form but didn't expect it to be as large at it is. I will have to wrestle it around and get it on a table but then what? Anybody tried using a sawsall?

EDITED TO ADD: By the way. Swans has awesome customer service. I order my wax one day and it goes out that same day. I ordered a box today and it went out today. They really do have great customer service.

I just wanted to add that I ordered, late afternoon yesterday, 50lbs of Accu-Soy 10 CB wax to test and they still got it shipped yesterday and it will be delivered today. I think they have one up on GB. They did call me to tell me that they needed to adjust the shipping due to the order needing to be in two boxes (I ordered a bunch of small stuff too). He said that something in their shopping cart software didn't take into account the wax size which is pretty common and didn't alarm me at all. I just thought it was nice that they made the effort to call and ask if it was OK. Now wish me luck with the testing :smiley2:

Ok, I will find that thread and do some more homework. I am going to check out Swan's site too and see what I can come up with. Thanks again for the help!

I think the waxes must be a new or fairly new addition. I didn't realize they carried waxes before. Their prices are kind of high. For example, the votive wax is 1.67/lb if you get 25 lbs or more. This works out to be $100.20 for a 60 lb case, which you can get for about $60 (before shipping) from other suppliers. I know you'll be going personally to pick it up, but when I get shipping quotes from other suppliers, it works out to be about $88 a case including the shipping.

I guess I should have done a little more homework. Now my next question would be where did you find the votive wax for about $60.00 a case without shipping if you don't mind me being so bold to ask?

Good job. Those look really really nice. You have been very buzy!

Anyone know what type of soy wax Liberty Naturals carries?

The website says they carry soy container and votive soy wax with this description: Wax: A low melting point organic mixture or compound of high molecular weight, solid at room temperature and generally similiar in composition to fats and oils, except that it contains no blycerides.

Pretty general huh? Btw, thanks Suds for the link :smiley2:

It's www.libertynatural.com

Hey thanks Suds! Humm...The pic they have of their farm looks like it is located close to me.