bfroberts

My best guess would be CD 7 or 8.

Try wicking down a size or two.

8 hours ago, Terry said:

It's been a while since I've posted anything here - hope everyone is doing well!

Regarding Pro Blend 600:

I did a comparison burn  - in a status jar, a premier wick, 745 and the other with an eco 8, FO 6%, cured way over two weeks. The end result was the eco 8 sooted way too much at the end for my liking.  The Premier burned nice.  So i proceeded to make a couple other testers using the Premier 745 as a starting point, same fo %. The cure time is now over two months and I thought at this point the hot throw would have been great, but it was not that great at all.  Some of the scents I used were CS Snickerdoodle and CS White Birch - good throwers in straight paraffin wax. (I know that Pro Blend is a combo of PF and soy).

If I add a higher % of fo, I may run the risk of sooting.  Should I add a little paraffin wax?  I have 4786 and 4625 (pillar wax) on hand.  If I use a little bit of the 4625 to harden the wax should I go up in wick size?

Can anyone offer and advice?  Thanks....

I have never been able to coax a great throw from Premier wicks in any parasoy wax.  Even if the burn was good, the throw just isn't there for me.  I like both Eco and CD wicks with Problend 600.  If the Eco 8 produced soot, I would test Eco 6.  With CD's, I would start with CD 8 and go from there.

1 hour ago, Markyel said:

It worked yay!! Thank you i was so stumped and couldn't get any help through other platforms. 

 

You are awesome thanks for helping!!! wish you all the best in everything you do!!!

Glad you have it figured out!

I don't know how much slower they can get. They are already at snail's pace here in WV.  Sloth-pace maybe. 🦥

Sounds like you have a straight paraffin wax, meaning it doesn't contain any additives.  Without additives, paraffin wax will mottle.  

Just now, INEDINCRED88 said:

Thank you. Do you mostly avoid vanillin containing fragrance oils in paraffin? 

No, not at all. I don't have any problems with vanillin.

10 hours ago, INEDINCRED88 said:

That helps - Could you maybe give some examples on waxes and wicks you use? I’ve wasted hundreds of dollars in supplies making candles that are awful and I could really use some direction. 

I use several waxes depending on the client, but for various parasoy's I use Eco and CD mostly.  For my paraffins, I use mostly LX.

Generally speaking, I have no problems with vanilla scents or FO's that contain vanillin, other than the normal discoloration that comes from using the darker oils.  Discoloration when burning is usually due to wick debris or a wick that is too hot IME, and it can happen regardless of vanillin.  

2 hours ago, TallTayl said:

I learned the hard way to not try to compete with the big manufacturer for refills when I could stay in my own lane with original offerings. Customers for BBW and glade typically are not the same pool of customers that prefer my product offerings. 🤷🏻‍♀️

Great point! 

Years ago I tried refilling those using a variety of carrier oils as well as DPG, PG, room spray base and I don't remember what else.  Nothing worked.  I, too, abandoned the whole idea when I heard the dangers.

I gotta echo TT.  Canva is great.  

3 hours ago, Craig said:

Do you find Problend 600 to be picky with scents? I’m just shocked that I can get a better hot throw from my 464 with a lot scents at 8% than I can with the Problend 600. 

Not really any more so than other parasoy waxes I've used with similar proportions.  I do use pretty small wicks.  Too big and it will inhibit the throw.  I also cure all my candles a couple of weeks minimum.

I'd use CD or Eco.

1 hour ago, Craig said:

I know Problend 600 can be picky about the fragrances you use. I have found that I need to use between 9-10% fragrance to get what I would consider a good hot throw. For those of you that have a lot of experience with this wax, how much fragrance do you have to typically use? 

I use 6%-7% with excellent results.  

Cure time is an important consideration. If you haven’t cured at least 2 weeks I’d hold off making any wicking decisions until you’ve tested at a 2 week or longer cure time.

So many oils have been reformulated, and it's never for the better.  I'm sick of it.
Heck, I'm getting acceleration from oils I've had for a long time that didn't accelerate before.  I am obviously doing something differently or it's environmental, but it is maddening as hell to make a soap I've made many times before w/no issues and all of a sudden it's problematic.  I am not a professional soaper so I know I'm the problem, but I can totally sympathize with the frustration.  

My mind immediately goes to a watery scent but otherwise.....Blue Raspberry, Blue Skies, Blueberry anything, Bluebonnet, Blue Hawaiian, Blue Cotton Candy, Blue Spruce, etc.  I always dye my Clean Cotton candles blue, so that could work. Blue Sugar is one of my favorite candle scents, so I'd be tempted to go with that one.

23 hours ago, Forrest said:

Thanks, I'm a bit gun shy after my last batch of 4627. I had 8oz tins from a previous batch that had much better HT than my triple wicked candles from the new batch.

That sucks.  I don't do that much 4630 anymore, except one account, so I'm only using about one case every 2-3 months. Based on what I've seen, 4630 has been fine.  I always order from CS or Flaming.

I would. I put zero faith in wax reviews.  I've only ever had one issue with 4630 and in retrospect, I freaked out and made much more of it than it really was.  Since then I've gotten used to some inconsistency in hardness, but a decent cure usually works out the kinks.  

I have a version of this scent. I'm not sure how comparable it is to the one sold by MS, but if you are interested, PM me.

You'll have to experiment with your pour temp to find the optimal.  I'd go up or down 5 degrees until you find the temp that gives you the best aesthetics.  IIRC, 444 did better for me at a higher pour temp than the other soys waxes I've worked with, so I'd work up.  Others may have a different experience.  Also, I really don't think there is any need to heat your wax that high. Heat to 185, add FO, stir and pour at your desired pour temp.

All fragrance oils do not wick the same. If the candle is burning too hot, the candle maker needs to try a smaller wick, or any number of other variables that can influence wicking.  There is no such thing as one-size-fits-all in candle making.  

13 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Did they blame the customer?
 

I get so enraged when makers of unsafe candles blame the buyer, and scold that the candle should burn in front of them every second. As if most of us don’t light a candle in, say, a bathroom.  Don’t know about you, but I do not sit in that bathroom the entire time the candle is lit. That would be weird. 
 

ASTM clearly states that candles shall not be made in combustible containers. 
 

ASTM also clearly states that candles shall not have combustible materials in, on or around them. 
 

While some people may sputter that ASTM is “voluntary” it is the standard the insurance companies and court of law follow when fire incidents occur. Protect yourself by becoming familiar with the ASTM candle testing process. 

10,000 likes
 

1 hour ago, Neenie said:

BFroberts if the Eco's work well for you, that's great, maybe you've discovered a winning combination of wax/wick/ container that performs safely and smells wonderful for you😊; I hope that months and months of testing will finally give me a safe burning candle as well; but, I'll pass on those eco wicks for now.😉

CD, LX, HTP, Eco, paper core, zinc....there are many that work well in 6006.  With that wax, landing on the right size & a good cure is more crucial than any particular wick type. Good luck to you.