bfroberts

It sounds like you have received a lot of incomplete and inaccurate information.  

-A decent quality fragrance oil formulated for candles will NOT burn off when added at temps above 170. We routinely add FO at temps around 200 with no loss of scent at all. 
-Your wax needs to be heated to a temp of 185 or a little higher, especially when using additives. Otherwise your wax, additives and FO often will not fully incorporate, and that may well be part of your problem.

-You cannot determine the correct wick for a candle based on an unscented candle. Everything you add to wax (fragrance, dye, additives) can change your wicking needs. Wax without fragrance will not burn the same as wax with fragrance.  

-ALL fragrance oils will perform differently.  Every one needs to be tested separately to determine wicking and throw. There is no shortcut and no getting around testing each one.

-Soy wax needs to cure a minimum of 2 weeks. 

-You really need to choose 1 wax (they are ALL different) and learn how to use it.  Every wax is different and will perform differently. Each time you add anything to your wax or try a different wax, testing starts all over again.  There are no shortcuts. Candle making is not something that is learned quickly, and you should have a thorough understanding of your wax and how it performs in varying conditions, over time, etc. before you even consider selling product.

I'd heat the wax to 185-190° 

I'm sure, with more specific info, someone here can help you solve the problems you are having. In the meantime, you and your boss really need to step away from selling anything until you have full understanding of your product and process. 

Not surprised about NG.  Only surprised it took as long as it did. I've had a strong suspicion for a while now that Flaming had gone that route too, and the email confirms it. Crazy stuff.

4 hours ago, Lynnann81 said:

Sorry I use 464, that info probably would have been helpful! 

What percentage of FO do you use? 

I use 6%, maybe 7%. I've never seen any improvement using high FO loads. For me it just leads to problems, plus added expense.
I'm not that sure about wicking 464, because it's had so many inconsistencies in recent years.  Based on the last time I did use it, I'd say something in the neighborhood of CD 8 would be a decent place to start testing. Maybe someone with more recent experience with that wax will chime in. Good luck!

The size of your wick is dependent on the container. What container are you using?

We used to give 6oz candles as promo's.  If I recall, the total weight of the finished candle was only a little over 4oz.  I'm thinking 4.25oz, something like that, so 5oz wax per candle will be more than you need. Will vary slightly depending on the wax and FO.  12% FO is way more FO than you'll need also.  I'd probably go with the CS tins too.  Wick will depend on the wax you will be using.

Several things.
It's parasoy blend, and as such can have a certain finickiness with FO's just like soy.  

I used Eco's with it and liked the combo a lot, but because Eco's burn hot, being even slightly over-wicked can inhibit throw. Use the smallest wick that gets the job done.

It needs to cure. I'd wait 7-10 days before testing, and even then it isn't fully cured.

43 minutes ago, Angela0085 said:

Is it more efficient to measure in ounces ?

For all things candle related, you need to measure by weight. You can use ounces or grams. Grams would be the smaller unit, therefore the most accurate.  Fluid ounces, ml, etc are for measuring volume/mass, not weight. 

ml is a volume measurement, whereas ounce is a weight measurement.

I live in a very humid environment and all my soap has that wet feel. Tweaking the recipes didn't help but running a dehumidifier in the curing room sure does. I don't think I could sell soap without it.

I like C3. I've been the rounds with the GB waxes and their inconsistencies. I have not experienced any notable inconsistency in C3, and overall I think it offers great performance.  My hard lesson over the years is to skip the new "improved" container blends and learn the older waxes that aren't so ever-changing. Initially they may seem to be a little more work, but the payoff in consistency and performance has been worth it to me. Hopefully someone with more soy experience than I will chime in.  I'm a paraffin user that just offers a soy option. 

6 hours ago, lightmyfire said:

What wick series did you have the best results with in 130?  I find that CD's are like torches at any size in this wax.  Seems like HTP's burn cooler but the HT isn't as outstanding as with the CD's.   I switched to this from 6006 because it just got too "unpredictable" but now I'm having second thoughts.  

I like Eco the best in the 130 by a mile. Great burn & throw.

There is no fix. I have used both waxes extensively. The 130 has better adhesion on its own but it’s not 100%. 4630 has crappy adhesion at any percentage no matter what you do.

On 8/5/2022 at 4:41 AM, Lizzy said:

 

Is that Mottle Container Wax? If so what wax is it? TIA.

Candlewic

Congratulations and good luck!🍀

1 hour ago, Kira said:

I hate everyone is giving me pros and cons and what they perhaps might try. Not very informative. I'm looking for good wooden wicks that will stay lit in my 8oz candle. All the ones i purchased go out immediately. So if you are just trying out and reporting pro and cons im good. Tell me which ones you used that worked. Thata what i want to know  

Try a different size.  

I get the feather palm from Aztec sometimes.  It's a great wax. It's the same wax (igi) no matter where you buy it. I haven't seen even a hint of inconsistency in it, and I've been using it on and off for 4-5 yrs.  I make palm pillars, not melts.  You can get a great throw with it at 5-6%, but I do find that some scents (mostly some bakery & vanillas) give me little or no throw without a good cure, 2 weeks or so.

10 hours ago, Belinda said:

Thank you for your help!

Do you generally use the same size wick for salsa as you do mason jars?

I usually go one size up for the salsa. 

Here's a pic of a 51z in the 16oz Flint jar from Aztec (very similar to salsa, just a little bit wider) after a long burn.  The wick will need trimming but a very clean burn. I'm also gonna test 44-36 before I decide on these.

11 hours ago, Belinda said:

I think the small melt pool was making me think I needed to go larger but maybe not. It seemed there was wax hanging up on the sides so I got impatient. Do you think it would eventually catch up? I need to do more testing but needed a starting point. Thank you!

I use mottling wax so IDK really how well this translates to your waxes. I'd guess the differences would probably be within a size, if any.  

I like for mine (salsa and masons) to keep a little hangup until at least the half way point of the jar, or lower.  That seems to be the general sweet spot for a good, clean burn in any container that has shoulders.  Tumblers can usually go a size bigger because they don't hold in as much heat. 

5 hours ago, Belinda said:

I've gone back and forth with 4786 and 133 tart wax from Rustic which can also be used in containers. I wanted a harder wax because it's so hot here that I was afraid 4630 wouldn't hold up if I had to ship something or if I decided to do some craft shows outside. It can be warm here even in December sometimes.

I haven’t used either of those in ages and I don’t have any notes for them, so I’m gonna wing it.  Lol

The harder paraffins usually need a significantly smaller wick than the soft paraffins like 4630/4627. I’d start testing the masons with something in the 44 range, 44-24 probably. You shouldn’t have any problems single wicking the salsa. I’d probably test 51z initially. It’ll probably look like a small melt pool at the top but that’ll change.

34 minutes ago, Belinda said:

I know this is an old thread but I've been trying to make candle with paraffin and zincs. I have some 16 oz square mason jars and some 16 oz salsa jars which are a little bigger around. Would you double wick the salsa jars or just one, either a 51 or 60? Just trying to get a starting point. I see that LS sells their candle kits with 51 zincs for 8 oz jelly jars and both of my jars are larger than those.

What paraffin are you using?

I sell only mason jar candles, and I test in a 1300 sq ft space.  If it fills the space, I consider it a success.  I don't tinker with percentages. I use 6% FO for everything, and if a FO doesn't throw, it gets ditched.  I feel like you just kinda have to work things out to your own satisfaction.

2 hours ago, Brit88 said:

It was what CandleScience suggested for the diameter, and it worked really well the first time around. I can try a smaller wick.

Unless they’ve revised their recommendations, I found their suggestions for 464 to be way too hot for the newer 464. But the way waxes change so often now, I can’t hardly keep up. 🤷‍♀️

CD18 is a really big wick for a jar of that size. You might have better luck with something several sizes smaller.  Too much wick can inhibit throw.