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Cetacea

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Posts posted by Cetacea

  1. I've tried to pour hot, pour cooler, pour cool. In my case, it seems like the cooler I poor the more wet spots I have. What temp is best for you? Could be the difference in climates?

    Climate is a big part of it..

    I pour around 155 degrees and still have wet spots. But like I said, with J223 its just the nature of the wax.

  2. 8% of 12 oz is what you want to know right?

    8% X 100 = .08

    .08 X 12 = .96 round up to 1oz.

    If you want to figure out the amount of % of a number simply convert that % to a decimal and multiply it times the number.

    If you want to figure out how much of a % IS a number then you divide the larger into the smaller: Example:

    4 is what % of 20?

    4 / 20 = .2

    .2 X 100 = 20%

  3. 1 lb of solid wax still weighs 1 lb when its melted.

    The difference is the volume--the amount of space melted wax takes up in the pour pot. The volume of 1 lb of melted wax is approximately 20 fluid oz.

    Fluid oz denotes volume

    Oz denotes weight

    Example:

    200 lbs of bricks weighs the same as 200 lbs of feathers, BUT the volume is quite different. 200 lbs of bricks take up about 1/2 pallet, however 200 lbs of feathers will probably fill a small warehouse. Do you see the difference?

    While its good to know the volume of melted wax, the weight is still the same. You base your measurements of FO on weight not volume.

    HTH.

  4. No you are not doing anything wrong.

    If you pour past the shoulder of the container J223 will crack or create a sinkhole. If you pour too hot it will do the same thing.

    Wet spots? There is no cure with J223, just live with them. You can minimize by pouring cooler but in reality it doesn't help much. Besides, customers have no idea what a wet spot is (other than the one nobody wants to sleep on--LMFAO).

  5. Great site Robin...

    I wonder if that is the same stuff they used to sell for marbled Easter eggs. There was this really cool oil dip for those, made some beautiful eggs and haven't been able to find it for years.

    I ordered 2 color palettes...what the heck, if it turns out to be junk, I'll let you all know. Won't be the first time I've wasted money....and won't be the last either..LMAO.

  6. Yes you can use it for tealights. Container candles are very tricky as beeswax is not a container wax by itself. You can add up to 40% paraffin or soy and still call it a beeswax candle (as long as the beeswax is 51% or greater).

    You don't need any additives with beeswax.

    Square braid works best although with tealights you can try flat braid. Remember when looking at a wicking chart that it is based on paraffin. So immediately go up 2 sizes for straight beeswax. And depending on how filtered the wax is will determine how far up you will have to wick.

    Since no two hives are exactly the same, no two beeswaxes will be. Make sure that if you are going to do this that you use only 1 supplier...otherwise you will be testing forever.

    HTH.

  7. ditch the screws. I had the same problem with them and just got rid of them. Pull your wick through and pack the mold sealer on top to seal it. Make sure the sealer is really sealed around the wick.

    Or buy wicking pins..they work the best IMO.

    On the same note has anyone tried the magnetic things Pourette is selling? I wonder if they will work as well?

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