Cetacea

Stearine will increase your melt point. Use 1-3 Tbl/lb of wax.

All the directions out there say to heat at high temps.

Dose the sand stick at such a low temp? You need a thick coat of sand of about 1/2".

Yes it does. I've never been one to blindly follow directions... .

Sorry but no they aren't. They require very high temps to pour, around 250*F-300*F, which is very dangerous.

Actually they are easy to make. You don't need to heat your wax that high to make them either. I heat mine to normal temps ~180 and get a beautiful sand candle every time.

Ok, I'm confused. Do you mean that there is sand on the bottom and sides like a container with the wax poured inside it? Those are sand candles.

If you mean candles made with different colors of stuff that LOOKS like sand, that is granulated candle wax.

Sand candles are easy to make. Put some sand in a bucket, get it damp, push a bowl or something else to make an indentation and then SLOWLY pour warm wax into that indentation....preferably over the back of a spoon so as not to drill a hole in the sand.

Granulated wax candles are easier. Pick out the colors you like and layer it around a secured wick.

HTH

Wax Remover. Candlewic and a variety of other places sell it.

You can also try swishing a little bit of red label rubbing alcohol in the bottom to remove any leftover oils.

The easiest is to weigh your JJ, tare your scale then pour wax into the JJ and weigh it. Make sure that if you do this, you take into consideration the weight of your FO.

The reason you have so much leftover wax is that your JJ does NOT hold 8 oz of wax. It probably holds about 6oz. When you measure with water you need to multiply by .8 as wax is less dense than water.

Remember that you get about 20 fluid oz (NOT WEIGHT--VOLUME) for 1lb of weighted wax.

HTH.

you have to multiply the water weight by .8 to get an approximation of the amount of wax. The simpilest way is to just fill the container with melted wax.

hth

The 10lb blocks are straight paraffin. They hold about 3% of FO give or take.

link to additive info

hth

what is your FO %?? If the color turned out fantastic then you should be concerned about your FO %.

In the future to get the right color, put a couple of drops of wax onto a white sheet of paper to test your color. You will get an idea of the strength of the color and tone that way. HTH

I know I need to get better quality wax, but I am getting the paraffin cheap and wanted to try doing my own additives.

Just curious--why? If what I've just read through 8 pages of bible verses, defenses for not testing...etc. WHY? You obviously like the way your candles are selling...so why bother trying to *play* with additives?

And to answer your ORIGINAL question, YES. If you leave the top off your containers your candles WILL lose scent over time. How much scent depends on a variety of conditions.

depends on the type of wicking you are buying...if its primed on the spools or not. I'd ask your supplier if you can get it primed next time. Until then, the easiest way to prime it is to drag it through a high temp wax (paraffin works the best). Dragging is easy, simply heat your priming wax to recommended temp, then slowly pull your wicking through it. If you want you can drag it through a pan of cool water to help it cool. The key is to keep it straight while you pull it, rather than dip it. It takes time, so I would advise that you set up to do all you wicking at once, not as you need it. HTH

fill it with water and multiply by .8

If you get your sample within 6 months consider yourself lucky. Colorsine is a great idea but unless you've got one heck of a good scale forget it, its a pain in the butt. Also, it only works for straight paraffin with NO additives. If you add anything but the colorsine it will not work. I have some blue around here that I tried out, tested it for a couple of months and still couldn't get the same results that they do. And the instructions they send might as well be in Chinese! LMAO.

Good luck if you try it.

Always test it yourself first, then send it out to people. The reasoning is simple, other people don't know what you know, hence have no idea what to look for in your candles. Lest anyone should forget, most people haven't a clue how a candle is supposed to burn because they've been predisposed/hoodwinked by the mass producers for so long.

You test it first, then sent it to your sister.

HTH

try your local library. There is a book Carved Candles I think is the title. Its very informative and its available for free from most libraries. HTH.

Some suppliers will send you samples if you call them. I know Candlewic does. HTH.

Keep going up on the Square braid wick sizes....2/0 isn't much, try a #1, #2, #3...etc until you get the right burn. HTH

I was wondering if any of you beeswax candlemakers ever have this sae problem. Heres the deal.

If I use one wick, it leaves lots of hangup. The melt pool does not go all the way to the edge. BUT when I wick up one, the melt pool is fine but now the jar seems to get too hot. I really do not think it is hot to the point of breakage, but definately hotter than my regular candles. What are your opinons?

Maybe I should add more paraffin to the blend?

I would. I do beeswax/J223 blend and it took quite a bit to determine the exact % of beeswax. Also, since you are using zincs (I do too), try to find out if there is a "middle" size. Sometimes there is but its not that well known.

HTH

Candlewic used to give out a book that had a lot of ideas. You might try there or the library. I found some older books once that had good ideas.

HTH

you might want to invest in Candlewic's Mold Cleaner for your molds. As for your Presto Pot, if you don't want to wash the inside, go down to Wally World and pick up a bottle of 90% rubbing alcohol. After you wipe out all your wax, let it cool a bit then wipe out the inside with the rubbing alcohol.

HTH

I've done both and found that packages of 2 sell better than 3, 6, or 12, at least in my area. I shrinkwrapped the 2 together to give you an idea.

I'm testing clamshells this weekend though and hope they go, because I love the semi non-existant packaging dilemma with them. Just stick a label on and you're good to go!

HTH

As Top said, the easiest is to wait until the candle is completely cool before repouring. Then hit the tops with a heat gun.

I've only ordered FO's from ICS; and was pleased with all of them.

HTH

The easiest way to even out the tops is to place a cookie sheet over boiling water (your double boiler--if you use one), then carefully place the hurricane top down onto the sheet and lightly press or swirl to even them out.

If you don't use a double boiler you can use your presto pot if its empty of wax. I'd put down a paper towel or two to soak up the excess wax.

If you want you can use a level to make sure that the tops are even, but I have found that if you swirl the hurricane it levels out automatically.

To keep embeds from floating, pour in stages or layers. Don't let the tops of the previous layer completely cool before pouring the next though or you might have lines. The top of the lower layer should be set but not firm.

HTH

This candle has no color to it at all. Only 2 of the 3 I originally bought had anythrow at all. I really didnt think it was such a big deal. When i did use them, I always had blew the flame out and the wax is NEVER hot, just lukewarm. Anyway, I have had A LOT of request for these.

At least they were undyed. Its not just the dye and even though the hot throw might not be good as a candle, it can still contain an unsafe % of FO/EO. Remember that just because it is an EO doesn't mean that it is safe in all concentrations, or that all EO's are safe to use on your skin.

Wax temperature is a concern not just for the immediate burning precaution but also because of the vapor that can still ignite even by a blown out wick. All it will take is 1 ember on the wick and the vapor from the wax can ignite. Or say that the FO/EO has a flash point slightly above the melting temperature of the wax. Now you've got FO/EO vapor which can ignite from an ember as well, even though the wax is lukewarm. In tipping the candle to get the wax on the skin the vapor hits the ember and BAM! instant torched hands/arms..etc.

There are many factors that make this practice extremely dangerous. You might as well advise people to pour gasoline on their hands and then light a match. The mechanics are the same. You have a flammable vapor and a possible ignition source.

NOW: Soy wax in and of itself makes a WONDERFUL lotion, either as an additive or an actual base. It doesn't NEED to be heated in order for it to work. It goes on smooth and creamy and has some fantastic properties for your skin. BUT the instant that it is used as a candle should be the instant that it REMAINS a candle.....regardless of what marketing ploys/big name products are out there.

As Debscents said, all it will take is one person to flambe their hand and you are out of business. Its too risky.