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Soja

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Posts posted by Soja

  1. The ONLY wick I use is bulk LX wick. The bigger ones get LX28 as I go down in size, the wick goes down, 24,22,,, Etc. If my Motherinlaw lights one of my palms in the evening, after supper, I might have to trim it once during the rest of the night. I read in the old board, from the palm makers that LX worked so I tried it and I agree. I also use a wick pin so the wick is not pulled toward the side during drying. I get it at Candlescience because Peak does not have bulk LX, just pre-tabbed.

    Thank you all for your kind comments.

    Soja

  2. To further test our theory, I poured into another tin mold with different capacity. It turned out the same as the other tin mold. :undecided

    Conclusion:

    In any tin mold I tried, I could not get the palm to take any other pattern but this one in the pic. Different shapes of mold and different temps/wrapped-not wrapped/pre-heated, not pre-heated... All gave the same pattern.

    Alum. molds are a different story. They pattern all the way up and down with slight differences I'll attribute to different mold shapes.

    Now I'm gonna try different Alum. molds... More later.

    Soja

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  3. ALLRIGHT....

    Latest update to the update to the update...:D

    This is a pic of one I just poured. 165 degrees! No pre heating the mold! In a 68.6 degree basement!

    The only difference is the top didn't do much feathering.

    Mei-Mei, SheilaW, I'm now sure it's the shape/material of the mold.

    Stella1952, 165 degrees. I poured the others at 210/220

    What Do Ya Think Folks??????

    Soja

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  4. Update:

    This pic is the latest.

    I get the silver by using diluted black dye. The feathering makes it look silver.

    I re-poured the Dusty Pink hotter and wrapped the mold in insulation. Did not matter. It seems that the mold/wax combo just generates this kind of pattern. This is further confirmed by the small round dusty pink. I wrapped/poured just like the big pillar and the pattern came out completely different. The layered is just a color combo my Wife wanted to see. It's very light magenta, which is translucent and powdery green thats opaque. Thats in 'regular' wax.

    SheilaW... Very beautiful examples. Please let me know more about the mixing combo's.

    Stella1952... No, I have not tried cooler. That will be next.

    LOVE these learning discussions! :)

    Soja

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  5. Here is the latest, I re-melted and poured hotter. I put the mold into a styrafoam cooler before I poured and covered it for a whole day! The feather effect is similar to the other one. Feather on the bottom and the very top.

    I've allready poured another test. I wrapped the same mold in foam insulation, heat gunned it and poured hotter, about 220.

    If wrapping doesn't cure it, I am done with ideas. Wrapping is the last idea you people gave me. Is it the tin mold? Cause I poured one in an Aluminum mold, round, and just left it. I did wrap it and it turned out great.

    Ideas please...:undecided

    Soja

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  6. I was conscripted to make 10 palm wax candles in this shape for my Daughters wedding. The problem is the feather look is only on the bottom, or the top as it's poured. I think it wasn't hot enough or kept hot. I put a styrafoam cooler over the top of the mold after I poured it like I did with the others that look good.

    Poured at 200.

    Can anyone help Please???

    Soja

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  7. Here is my pic of my first attempt at layering Palm Wax. You might be able to see the leakage at the top-right corner of the hex candle. There was space in the mold when I poured the second and it shows better in person but I think pouring a lighter color (Yellow) ontop of a darker color (Green) tended to 'disguise' the leakage. I poured at 200 degrees as per instructions from the wax place and the joint line came out just right in my opinion. On the second pour I heat gunned the mold to a point that almost melted the first layer. Too hot to touch. Don't know if that helped or not.

    The yellow triangle is just left over yellow.

    SheliaW... Thanks for the pics. It seems to me that the rustic took away from the palm look. Great colors though. I'd like a closer look if possible.

    Any other Palm Wax adventures from anyone?????

    Thanks for looking.

    Soja

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  8. Thanks for the positive comments. The candle is burning right now and I need to wick up. I have LX 21 I think in there, I'll jump up to the next size I have and try again. (24 mabey?)

    My 84 year old Mother in law has to inspect every candle I make since she used to make candles during the war when her Hubby was in France. (I didn't know they had wax then...) :laugh2:

    Anyway... She gives the palm wax a big smile.

    Soja

  9. My latest rustic, F.O. Sea Breeze. My W.W. Linda told me these kind were her favorite so these are for her.

    A question for the rustic lovers, how do you cool the mold after the first pour? You can see on the one candle, the rustic quit working and some mottel even started! How do you cool the mold without cooling the wax so much that it pulls away from the mold and you get 'Leakage'.?

    Thanks for looking

    Soja

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  10. I have been in love with the effects of the Astorlite G/PQ, etc. ever since I saw pics on the old board. I am ready to buy some so I have been skipping around looking for tips/instructions/etc. for it's use. I understand palm wax does the same thing. I need a place to start however... Someone that uses it all the time and knows the tricks & tips, what not to do, etc.

    I sure would appreciate some feedback before I dive into the wrong purchase since I know nothing. (I make 'regular' candles fine.)

    Waiting for some kind, helpful, generious forum member to assist.:o :o (Please.....)

    Thank you lots.

    Soja

  11. 2 Pics today. One of some marbles I'm trying. Needs a little more heat gun I think.

    The other of my favorite subject; large mis-shapen chunks and another chunkie just to use up some chunks sitting in a bag!

    Think I'm ready for palm wax... Who wants to talk to me about it??

    Soja

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    post-1543-139458394308_thumb.jpg

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