KFTS

I haven't since a sample never came. :undecided

looks deeeeelish! yum

Hungarian Lilac from RE- its in the Chermark Line.

Most realistic lilac you can buy.

Yep, I second that one.

I just got one of those soap shavers from Kangaroo and love it. It shaves off a thin layer of soap and makes your bars really smooth. I do this after they dry for a few weeks. I plan on using the scraps for little samples.

Is it the beveler? That was all I could find on the site.

same problem here. I mix it with paraffin. The last batch I made with straight C3 was just awful. They would not burn right like they used to when I had first tried it straight.

Haven't tried theirs. I like the lotion from Millcreek, and the Aloe shower gel from BCN

thanks everyone, that helps.

Another newbie here...

The only times my soap had a mottled look was when I poured at a thicker trace. When I actually time it right and pour sooner I don't get that look.

As far as the rough edges...I don't know. Some one will come along soon.

ah-ha! yeah, it was almost custardy when I put into the mold, a little too long with the immersion blender I guess. thank you

You can use FCO (Fractionated Coconut Oil) & FO, works great and FCO is cheeper than cyclo. FCO is a dry oil, not oily or greasy, goes on real smooth and drys to a soft & silky feeling. Also FCO is great because it has a very long shelf life.

is the FCO sprayable or do you have to use roll-on type application?

I think the brown was from the milk. The recipe (from Creekside soaps--came with the mold) said to add it last after you had mixed everything but it turned brown anyway. THe scent was oakmoss sage from MMS and the recipe had a lot of olive oil in it so I figured it wasn't going to be white, but the mottling has me curious how that happened. I'm used to only my candles doing that!

I have the tall type 3 lb loaf mold. I cut the next day and the cutting surfaces are rough. Did I cut too soon or is this normal? (this is ony my fourth batch of soap). Any way to smooth them out? It's the large surface area that is rough, not the ends. Also, I didn't color and it discolored a beige color and has mottling. I didn't know soap could mottle. I think I could win an ugliest soap ever contest

no, shouldn't affect wicking at all. Never has for me.

I would normally go for the canteloupe color but I can't seem to sell anything orange. Maybe make a couple, one canteloupe color and one a pale green and show a few friends?

I may initially test that soon but always retest after at least a week or two. I've had some change on me and ended up having to wick up.

I could not find the 70/30 blend on the website. I would love to try this wax.

http://www.greenleafcandlesupply.com/natural_waxes.htm

Just by Nature wins for me:D

true some scents just won't throw in C3 no matter what, some throw right away. Most take a week to cure for me. If they're new, set them aside and try em again next week.

To answer your question on votives, you could make them out of container wax if you were to wick a votive jar and pour into the jar and leave it that way (basically a mini container). Otherwise, you need votive wax because it will release from the mold and stay firm.

Haven't done a lot of pillars, can't help you there.

I tend to buy from companies that test in soy, at least my odds are better the fragrance will work. companies like just by nature, greenleaf, Millcreek, A scent shop, fragrance oil heaven, snowtop, just to name a few.

Just FYI, in this category of scents, The Scent Works Dragon's Blood is fan-freaking-tastic On the Nag champa, I use JBN.

If I missed a different post with results I apologize, but wondering which wax you decided to go with?

I get mine at Riekes glass, I believe Taylored concepts carries them also without the big minimum purchase Riekes has

that looks yummo! Even the whipped topping part is C3?

Pourette is in the NW but I haven't ordered from them so don't know about their service

also try to ship on Mondays so your stuff isn't sitting around on days off.