cary Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) Hello,I'm doing the first test burn, and have a question. How long do I do the first burn? I got a full melt pool in 1.5 hrs. melt pool is 1/2 in. deep low HT but I only added 1/2oz of FO to 10oz wax. soy container blend, and 44-24-18C wick. no draft by candle. any suggestions? Or is it going well? How many more test should I do on this one candle? Maybe I will got sniff some coffe and check the trow again, lol!Thanks, Cary Edited November 21, 2011 by cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jillsthings Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Rule of thumb is 1 hr per 1 inch of the diameter of jar. Just from what I know, which isn't much, it sounds like it is over wicked. I know nothing about those wicks to help you, though. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I believe (if I figured it correctly on the handy-dandy online conversion link Stella gave us) that you're only at less than 5% on FO. You may not get much HT. What FO? & what's the inside diameter of your jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cary Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) Inside dia. is 1 n 7/16, and the heigth 1 1/2th FO is cucumber melon. I poured 3 candles from a batch of 10oz wax and .5 oz FO I got 2-2oz and 1-8oz tins.(actually I think the 8oz tin was really a 6oz.) I burned the 2oz tin for 2 hr's. and had full MP in 1 1/2hrs depth of pool was what I thought 1/2'' but I think it was really only 1/4'' after I blew the candle out and let it harden, again it continued to have the frosting on top, not sure why. this is the very first candles I made and have previous post on them. I'm wondering is I should just melt them down and start over. Edited November 22, 2011 by cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Cary, you need to burn the candle in increments as Jill described. Same amount of time for each test burn. Allow the candle to completely cool between test burns. Trim the wick before each burn. Frequently, a FMP on any soy candle during the first test burn makes me worry about overwicking because the temperature will rise considerably as the candle burns down into the container.. however this is not ALWAYS the case. If you have a pic of the candle, that would be great. Depending on the wax and FO, 5% may give a very pleasing HT - it just depends. The best way to clear your nose in addition to snorting coffee is to go outside for 10-15 minutes, then reenter the room where the candle is (do this safely! Don't want you to return to flames!). The fragrance should be more apparent to you. How long did you cure your candle before testing? Some FOs will throw well within 48 hours, but for best results, let the candle cure for 5-7 days before testing to give the scent a chance to develop in the wax.As for how many times you have to burn it, you test a candle all the way to the end. The wick should self-extinguish at about 1/2" of wax remaining in the container. If it does not, extinguish it then & we'll try to help you figure out why the wick didn't self-extinguish. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cary Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 Ok here are the pic's of FMP after 1 n 1/2 hrs, and after the burn. I let the candles cure for 3 days. I got frosting from inital pour and again after first burn still have 2 candles unburned. Inside dia. is 1 an 7/16th" height is 1 an 1/2" I'm going to let the other 2 cure longer before burning. I'm thinking the soy container blend i got from moonglow will need some aditive to help with the frosting. :undecided :smiley2: and someday i will figure out how to add pic's lmbo!:rolleyes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I'm not sure that the frosting you're concerned with is actual "frosting". I think you are describing "rough tops" instead. Most people complain about frosting is on the sides of the candle in glass containers. Rough tops are the nature of soy. It's not a bad thing, even tho you maybe bothered about it, most people aren't. There are additives you could add to help with it, but you may have to sacrifice HT doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Rough tops are the nature of soy.If you mean that polymorphism is a property of soy (and many other) vegetable waxes, I agree. But if you mean that this appearance is something one has to accept, I completely disagree. My soy candles do NOT have tops that look like that.Adding USA (distilled monoglyceride) has not sacrificed HT in my candles, but after only the first batch of candles, I sure would not suggest using an additive because I think the melt/FO/pour temps and/or cooling method are the main cause of what I am seeing in the photos. Tempering would also help. Stirring continuously after adding FO is another technique that helps not only to thoropughly blend the FO into the wax, but to keep the temperature even while stirring it down to the pour temp. There is a LOT of material in the threads about frosting and how to reduce it. Cary may be using a soy wax that contains no soy-based additives, in which case, more technique is needed to mitigate the polymorphic properties of soy wax, or simply switch to El Millennium, which appears to contain some additives.not sure that the frosting you're concerned with is actual "frosting"Rough tops are caused by the same polymorphic properties as frosting and respond to the same solutions, in my experience. There are several undesirable crystal phases besides the ferny looking frosting, or the white powdery type. There is cauliflowering, which looks like scrambled brains, a ring-type formation, streaks, lumpy texture that looks like cold mashed potatoes, etc. These are different crystal phases that grow or diminish at certain temperatures or in the presence of certain FOs & dyes.Types of Lipid Crystals alpha crystals: small beta prime crystals: stable and fine intermediate crystals beta crystals: course In crystals that are polymorphic, the chemical formula is the same. They form different crystals depending upon the temperatures and rate of cooling.http://food.oregonstate.edu/learn/fat.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cary Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) The soy container blend wax I used was supplied by EL to MoonGlow. I sent an email to EL and asked about additives they said the wax shouldnt need it. I did get 3 different types of wax in the kit the millenium the soy blend and the votive sot blend, and the container soy blend. Even after the first burn you can see in the pic that it continued to frost. Stella what additive would you reccomend using. (Vybar)? I seen somewhere its not reccomended for soy. I would be greatful to know as I don't want to not use the soy container blend and continue getting these results, I'm still not sure of all the abbrevation's, what is USA? I did stir it alot but will take you suggestion with the next batch. I've really learn alot from you all and I'm very thankful to have found this forum, it's the best! Thanks in advance! Edited November 22, 2011 by cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) The soy container blend wax I used was supplied by EL to MoonGlow. I sent an email to EL and asked about additives they said the wax shouldnt need it. I did get 3 different types of wax in the kit the millenium the soy blend and the votive sot blend, and the container soy blend. Even after the first burn you can see in the pic that it continued to frost. Stella what additive would you reccomend using. (Vybar)? I seen somewhere its not reccomended for soy. I would be greatful to know as I don't want to not use the soy container blend and continue getting these results, I'm still not sure of all the abbrevation's, what is USA? I did stir it alot but will take you suggestion with the next batch. I've really learn alot from you all and I'm very thankful to have found this forum, it's the best! Thanks in advance!USA:Universal Soy Additivehttp://www.thecandlemakersstore.com/product/ADUSOYA/Universal-Soy-Wax-Additive.htmlMaybe experimenting with the temps first would be a good starting point. Edited November 22, 2011 by Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cary Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) Thank you, I will. Edited November 22, 2011 by cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) If you used the Millenium that has the additives already in it. "Millennium blend (a combination of soy and other natural ingredients, no paraffin or petroleum)" That would be comparable to the GB464. I agree with experimenting with different pouring temps.DId you see the EL troubleshooting guide?http://www.enchanted-lites.com/5a1.htm Edited November 22, 2011 by IwantItgreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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