periwinkle Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 I think I know the answer, but I just want to make sure. I started testing my first candle last week, and we already discussed the fact that it is overwicked. Does being overwicked cause the candle to lose its HT? I burned it last night (it was the 5th burn) and I couldn't smell it unless I had my nose right above the jar. I even left the room for a while, and still nothing when I came back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 When a candle is overwicked, as it burns down into the container, the heat increases. At some point the higher temp may begin burning off the FO. The other possibility is the dreaded candle nose... : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Yep to what Stella said. An overwicked candle will have a nice wide and deep melt pool and the heat volatilizes the FO to produce a great HT. Unfortunately, towards the end of the candle there isn't much FO left and it loses it's HT. Once you try a smaller wick this should be less of a problem.As far as candle nose, easily tested by going outside or somewhere away from candle for 10 minutes or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periwinkle Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Thank you. I was fairly certain the loss of HT was from it being overwicked. Just wanted to make sure since I still have so much to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I'm still trying to retrain my line of thinking when it comes to less is more...Stella, I've been testing pass few weeks with the C3 and CDNs and Premier wicks. I tried the CDN16 and then the 18 because I thought the hang up left over the first few burns meant it wasn't burning hot enough-and the ht isn't where I thought it should be so i wicked up. FunFlames explained that to get the oxygen needed to burn the fuel that it will draw up I should try wicking down (yes, you suggested that too, but umm, didn't listen :embarasse) and that may improve the ht. So I will be trying that this week with the CDN12 and 14 in the 16oz canning jar. When I use CBA with LX, I get a great even burn with good ht, but C3 does NOT burn the same way as CBA nor does LX burn the same in C3- so I need to stop comparing the 2 and thinking that what works for 1 will for the other.*dead horse*But, I have finally got the pour temp down and amount of CO I want to use and having fun getting to know this wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) I hear ya, lmc. It's hard to imagine that soy waxes can perform so differently from one another, but they do. It's hard not to have expectations based on prior experiences, so don't feel like the Lone Ranger. Containers play such an important role in all this. The taller ones are more problematic to wick than the shorter ones with equal diameter. But hey - testing keeps us off the streets and in the lab where we can't do much harm and it is fun, despite the frustration. Keep us updated on how your adventures with C3 are going, ok? Would love to see pics! Edited November 20, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I switched my canning jars to one that is still 16oz but is slightly shorter and wider than the Ball or Kerr jars but it is not wm (but wouldn't you know it-they've been discontinued, only have 8 cases left )...as soon as I can figure out how to put pictures on (so computer illiterate) I will post some-I'll have to ask my son LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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