morgenstern Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Hello, All!I finally used up the last of my case of Ecosoya pillar blend that I got for a song off craigslist. After using it for so long, I totally knew how it behaved and exactly how it should be handled. Over the summer I picked up some Naturewax pillar blend at a garage sale (or at least thats what I was told. it's definitely soy and definitely pillar friendly. but it's also off-white, almost ivory in color) and last week made my first batch of candles.I quickly figured out that it doesn't act at all like the Ecosoya I was so used to. Votives either split in half or crack badly around the wick pin. The throw is still pretty good but it just seems off.For those familiar with this wax, at which temps do you do your 1st and 2nd pours. Also, are there any non-parrafin additives that you find makes it easier to work with?Thanks in advance for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 NatureWax P1 is a one-pour wax. Here're some highlights from the handling sheet:Step One: Melting of Wax – The wax should be heated to a temperature of 160 to 200°FStep Two: Adding of other ingredients – Other additives or ingredients may be added at any time to help improvethe performance of the wax.Step Three: Adding Candle Scent and Dye – The Fragrances and Dyes can be added to the wax after the wax iscompletely liquid. Make sure to stir the wax completely to ensure that the fragrances and dyes are completelymixed in.Step Four: Preparing the Wax for Pouring - After wax has been completely melted reduce the heat on the wax sothat the wax cools to a temperature of 150 to 170°F. This will reduce cracking and discoloration of the wax afterit has cooled.Step Five: Pouring Candles – Make sure that the mold is at room or slightly warmer before pouring the wax intothe mold. The wax should be poured in the mold while the wax is 150 to 170°F to reduce cracking and speed upthe cure time of the wax.Note: The addition of 5 to 10 % Triple pressed Stearic Acid will improve the performance of the WaxDemold the votives while still warm. Do not put them in the refrigerator or allow to get completely room temperature, for best results. HTH : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I heat PB to 180 and I do not use additives but do blend a little other soy in with it1st pour I do at 1552nd pour after center has started to congeal I pour at 140I use wick pins and never had a problem... until yesterday- when I removed them from the molds (warm as Stella suggests) and gently tap the pin to pull it out- the bottom of the votive breaks....I am not doing anything different that I am aware of so maybe something in the wax itself has changed??? I dont make alot of votives but this case is brand new, but you said yours is from over the summer- not sure what could be causing this but I just poured another batch to see if it happens again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 This isn't PB (Ecosoya PB) we are discussing, Moonshine - it's NatureWax P1. Different wax. I like the HT and appearance better but it's meaner with which to work than Ecosoya PB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgenstern Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Thank you both for the quick reply! Will definitely try again and remove from the molds when they are still warm. I'm using #3/0 square braid wick and that seems to be burning pretty evenly. What size do you go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I use CD or CDN 5-7, depending. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 This isn't PB (Ecosoya PB) we are discussing, Moonshine - it's NatureWax P1. Different wax. I like the HT and appearance better but it's meaner with which to work than Ecosoya PB.ooops- missed that part- saw ecosoya pb in the beginning and thought she bought the same at a garage sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgenstern Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Well I added 5% stearic acid and the wax was definitely easier to work with! I did a test burn last night and all seemed well. However, I just got home from work and noticed that the partially burned candle is now terribly mottled I know that this is likely because of the stearic acid but I was wondering if there is maybe something i can do to prevent this. What temperature should the SA be added? Am I doomed to goopy but non-mottled candles? I miss my Ecosoya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtt Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I love that wax. I heat the wax to 190 and then I use the heat gun to heat up my metal pourer. Once the wax gets a film in the votive cups move then closer together until they are dry. Then lift the pin to see if they will come out, take pin out and put your wick in. I never had to do a repour. Wax that it comes in the box is an off white to almost cream color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 partially burned candle is now terribly mottled I don't know what you mean by "mottled." Are you seeing frosting or what? A photo would help...At what temp did you add your dye (type & amount), FO (amount) & stearic acid (how many oz. per pound of wax)? The stearic acid should be added with the wax when melting. The wax should be heated to 185°-190°F, add warmed FO and pour at 165°F. Stir while melting every few minutes and continuously after adding FO until you pour. The molds should be warmed slightly - not hot, but warm enough to handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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