Ugly Palm Pillar Bottoms

[jeanie353]

Geezeeee....I've got some ugly palm pillar bottoms going on here. I've leveled them on a pancake making square pan I found in the cabinet but some are not very pretty when done. I've looked around for 2-3/4" warning labels to cover the imperfections but can only find 2-1/2". I've got a few that have some tiny voids or imperfections close to the edge. If I level any further they are going to be 5" instead of 6" candles. Well, alright that was a stretch but just sayin.... So I'm calling out for the advice of any palm pillar makers if this is the nature of the beast and let it go or not so much?

TIA

Jeanne

[Stella1952]

A photo would help...

[jeanie353]

A photo would help...

Straight and to the point there Stella...lol. It never even crossed my mind but I'll go down in a bit to take a few pics and see if I can figure out how to upload them on here.

Edited August 23, 2011 by jeanie353

[jeanie353]

These 2 are the worst of the bunch. Edited August 23, 2011 by jeanie353

[Georgia]

Personally, I don't think they are too ugly...and it may just be the nature of the beast (or you could sell it as that).

I print labels on full sheets and cut them out myself. I have a scrapbooking template that cuts 2-1/2 or 2-3/4.

[jeanie353]

Personally, I don't think they are too ugly...and it may just be the nature of the beast (or you could sell it as that).

I print labels on full sheets and cut them out myself. I have a scrapbooking template that cuts 2-1/2 or 2-3/4.

Georgia...Thank you so much for your opinion and the label info. This is my 1st 50 lbs working with palm so I wasn't sure what was up with the bottoms of the pillars. I did do a 2nd pour on some of the indents and relief holes but filling in any farther in the areas like those showing on the pics caused the wax to run over the side of the pillar. I got sick of re-melting them and decided to put the question up here for opinion or suggestion. I should be able to find the scrapbooking template at Michael's or JoAnn Fabrics now that I know how to make/get the larger warning labels.

[Stella1952]

I think they look decent enough. Although I think bottoms should be neat, that is NOT the part people will see when they light your candle! But I don't put a label over a blemish ever - if people remove the label (and they will) and see the blemish, they will think you were trying to conceal something, which you were! I think you may be being a little too self-critical... The key, for me, to a well-finished bottom is to be QUICK about running the candle over the heated surface. Too long and the bottom will melt too much. I remove any excess lumpiness prior to finishing the bottom so that the entire bottom will smooth off quickly. I quickly set the candle on a level hard surface so that any drips will be leveled as well. HTH

[jeanie353]

I think they look decent enough. Although I think bottoms should be neat, that is NOT the part people will see when they light your candle! But I don't put a label over a blemish ever - if people remove the label (and they will) and see the blemish, they will think you were trying to conceal something, which you were! I think you may be being a little too self-critical... The key, for me, to a well-finished bottom is to be QUICK about running the candle over the heated surface. Too long and the bottom will melt too much. I remove any excess lumpiness prior to finishing the bottom so that the entire bottom will smooth off quickly. I quickly set the candle on a level hard surface so that any drips will be leveled as well. HTH

I agree Stella....First, I did/do not want imperfections on my finished products. However, I could not get a perfect palm pillar bottom so I thought maybe this is normal for palm and I just need a label to cover the imperfections. I did also find running them across the griddle QUICK did work the best but on the ones where they were off in level more to one side or the other I'd put a tiny bit more pressure on that side as I slid them across. I also found putting a white contractor towel (the kind they pull out of the box to wipe their hands) has very little design in the towel and worked really good. It soaked up any liquid on the griddle yet gave me just enough liquid in the towel to slide the candle and fill in some of those little dips and voids. I would cut off any excess bumps and stuff with my Exacto (sp?) knife before I leveled then and then did set them down on the countertop right off the griddle to keep that bottom flat until they cooled completely. Counter clean up was a breeze with my plastic wax scraper and any thin residue came off with Awesome spray cleaner from the Dollar Store.

I do tend to be self critical on my products and probably into the perfectionist area but I like the properties of palm so much I am going to get another 50 lbs and will most likely make these a part of my line. I do wick them to burn as luminaries rather than self consume and these were a breeze to wick unlike my containers that took 2 years of testing.

[Desertrose]

I really don't think they look too bad. Strange though because it looks like there are ever so tiny air spaces on the very bottom there. Are you sure you're "wrecking" the bottoms thoroughly? I do a heck of a lot of poking around with a skewer on my final layer (usually do layered palm pillars)

If you do find you have to fill in any holes and get some spill down the bottom of your candle if you gently heat gun it it should tidy it up nicely.

The hardest thing I find with the bottoms is getting the darn things level.

[jeanie353]

I really don't think they look too bad. Strange though because it looks like there are ever so tiny air spaces on the very bottom there. Are you sure you're "wrecking" the bottoms thoroughly? I do a heck of a lot of poking around with a skewer on my final layer (usually do layered palm pillars)

If you do find you have to fill in any holes and get some spill down the bottom of your candle if you gently heat gun it it should tidy it up nicely.

The hardest thing I find with the bottoms is getting the darn things level.

Yep, those are air spaces at the bottom by the edges. I am wrecking the bottoms about 1/2 of the way across. I wait about 4-5 hours before I begin so wax don't slush up through the holes and poke as far as the wax will let me. Usually I can still get almost or most of the way through at the 5 hour mark on 3" x 6" pillars.

Do you think I should wreck farther across like almost to the edge? I've test burned one of each batch so far with no flare ups but I am so new at palm pillars if you think I should be wrecking farther out, I will surely do it.

Leveling is quite the challenge sometimes. I have a little level I use each time I bring them off the griddle. It helped a lot when I began using a piece of contractor towels. It made for much less wax on the griddle so nothing drips down the pillar side when I pick it up.

I will be remelting the pillars in the pics + a couple more but have 8 that look good enough to send out to my testers to be sure I'm not getting any air pockets. I do worry tho' that my testers may miss a short lived flare up which is why I wondered if I should wreck farther out.

[Desertrose]

You poke them 4-5 hours after you've poured them? Am I understanding that correctly? They would surely be set by then?

I do the relief poking (wrecking, whatever you want to call it ) just as soon as the wax forms a decent crust on it. Probably within 30-45 minutes of pouring the candle. (Just guessing here)

The consistency at this point inside the candle is very much like an ice slushy. It's messy but if you're careful wax won't spurt out.

I poke around the whole area of the candle and get as close to the edge as I can, which is usually considerably harder than the middle where the slushy bit is.

That's just what I do. Maybe others do it differently?

[Stella1952]

That's very similar to what I do, Tracy, except I use a sharp, thin knife and completely cut a disc out of the bottom, exposing the molton wax inside, push the "disc" pieces back into the liquid wax in the middle, then I poke and stir to "wreck" the hardening structure of the interior so that the wax will fill the forming cavities. I do this several times (usually 3-4, depending on the height & diameter of the pillar) until there is no more molten wax. Each time the "disc" is smaller and smaller... . If one waits until the pillar has cooled, the wax will not penetrate and fill the voids properly. Palm was solidifies very quickly - it's either liquid or solid - no in-between... The older posts have been archived, so the photos I posted of the method I use are lost, but here's a more recent one where Soy327 was making a pillar that has photos of what "wrecking" looks like... http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?89167-Stella-I-m-gonna-try-a-pillar/page2&highlight=wrecking

After a "wrecked" pillar has set up completely, there will be a dished out part in the middle... I clean that up if necessary, stick in my wick, then finish the pillar by running it over a hot surface or if the deression is really deep, I do a second pour, then finish on the hot surface. I'll try to dredge up the old photos of what it looks like when the finishing is complete...

Edited August 30, 2011 by Stella1952

[spark-me-up]

I've tried so much stuff to get the bottoms looking good & in the end I have found my heat gun is my best friend!!!

As long as they are level, the gun seems to "resurface" the wax to a presentable state.

Took me a few goes to get it right, cause if you heat the wax too much it just "bubbles & pocks" & still looks horrible.

Anyway, this seems to be the easiest solution for me. Amazing how many "ugly butts" there are out there on shelves though eh?

Some people don't seem to give a toss... nice that you do =)

[jeanie353]

You poke them 4-5 hours after you've poured them? Am I understanding that correctly? They would surely be set by then?

I do the relief poking (wrecking, whatever you want to call it ) just as soon as the wax forms a decent crust on it. Probably within 30-45 minutes of pouring the candle. (Just guessing here)

The consistency at this point inside the candle is very much like an ice slushy. It's messy but if you're careful wax won't spurt out.

I poke around the whole area of the candle and get as close to the edge as I can, which is usually considerably harder than the middle where the slushy bit is.

That's just what I do. Maybe others do it differently?

I poke around and wreck the slight crust that forms until it gets to where I can feel it has formed on the bottom (top) of the mold. Then I leave it sit for about 5 hours on a 3x6" and come back and poke holes similar to a paraffin pillar but just a whole lot more area. I have a big circular hole after I'm done around the wick pin to way down in the pillar to almost the bottom (top) of the mold.

At 5 hours it is really easy to poke yet. It is solid most of the time but not rock hard solid. There is a difference between the bottom (top) where it has solidified first and I cannot poke through it up to the top (bottom) where it is no longer liquid but not rock hard. While I'm poking and eventually getting a big hole around the wick pin there are lots of little crumbly pieces of palm that come out and are all over the top (bottom) of the candle in the mold. This is how I am saying it is solid but not rock hard solid.

Of the bunch I've poured, I may get 1 or 2 where it has some liquid left at this 5 hour time. Which in itself is odd because they are all lined up on the same over rack, covered with the same type towels but it happens.

When I poke at that 5 hour mark, I often...actually almost always will hear air escape as soon as that hole is poked as well as sometimes the next or the next.

I pick up the pieces from poking all around, turn it over the melting pot to let all the pieces and residue laying on the top (bottom) fall off and out, heat the wax and fill the void or hole. When I fill it, it pours in and goes down in there real nice. I re-cover them and leave until the next day when I unmold them.

Next time I make some I will take pictures of the poking that I have to show this crumbly residue and how easy it is to poke around in the solidified pillar.

This wax my first 50 lbs of palm pillar that I bought off the classies. It was from CS and it was palm feather. Now I'm wondering when I get my next 50 lbs which won't be from CS since they no longer carry it if I will have the same crumbling as I did with the previous 50 lbs or if the wax was maybe old? I don't know but I do know I could easily poke a formed solid palm pillar at the 5 hourish mark. Now that I think about it, several times when I had the pillar over the top of the melting pot to get rid of the crumbles, the candle slid out of the mold. At the time I was excited because I got to take a peek at how it had formed to that point. Now I'm hearing maybe it should not have done that.

[Stella1952]

The reason that it seems easy to poke a hole at 5 hours is because the wax makes such large crystals and they have not fully hardened yet. That takes several days to a week. Palm wax IS "crumbly" by nature. It crushes into dust easily, doesn't matter what formula of palm wax it is. When I demold palm wax pillars, I carefully set them aside on their tops to harden and I do not touch them again for a week. This prevents damaging the soft edges and allows them to harden off.

poke holes similar to a paraffin pillar

Palm wax is nothing like paraffin and bears little similarity to soy even. The big difference is that there is virtually NO semi-molten state for palm wax. It is either very runny liquid or hard. Both paraffin and soy (to a lesser extent) have a semi-liquid, soft, (even semi-elastic with paraffin) state between liquid and solid. This allows it to slowly run into holes and settle. Palm wax hardens quickly, so when it is poured into little holes in a room-temp pillar, it will harden within about an inch of the pour hole and that's that. The hole is not filled beyond that. This is why mitigation of the air traps inside palm wax should be completed while the candle is still molten inside.

the candle slid out of the mold. At the time I was excited because I got to take a peek at how it had formed to that point. Now I'm hearing maybe it should not have done that.

Except for causing the candle to cool more quickly or taking a chance on scoring the sides, there is no real harm in this. I nearly always peek at some point... It is best not to remove the candle from the mold too quickly because this WILL have an impact on the surface of the candle. In the link I supplied above, on the first page, I posted a photo of a set I had made. I varied the pour temp to get different effects from the wax. If I removed the pillar from the mold too soon, the surface would be more dull... I like a highly polished look to certain areas of my pillars, so even though the large crystals have formed, I choose to let the candle remain in the mold until almost completely cooled for best surface quality. If one is pouring a one-color candle, this may not be as noticeable. The crystal formation will change somewhat if the candle is removed too soon, so for best results, leave it in the mold until it's almost completely cooled (barely warm). HTH

[jeanie353]

The reason that it seems easy to poke a hole at 5 hours is because the wax makes such large crystals and they have not fully hardened yet. That takes several days to a week. Palm wax IS "crumbly" by nature. It crushes into dust easily, doesn't matter what formula of palm wax it is. When I demold palm wax pillars, I carefully set them aside on their tops to harden and I do not touch them again for a week. This prevents damaging the soft edges and allows them to harden off.

So now I know the palm I had was alright and the crumbly nature was completely normal. From the sound of the reply post you mentioned that palm goes from liquid to hard with nothing in between and sounded as if that was inferring it could not be poked at that 5 hour time frame after pouring.

Palm wax is nothing like paraffin and bears little similarity to soy even. The big difference is that there is virtually NO semi-molten state for palm wax. It is either very runny liquid or hard. Both paraffin and soy (to a lesser extent) have a semi-liquid, soft, (even semi-elastic with paraffin) state between liquid and solid. This allows it to slowly run into holes and settle. Palm wax hardens quickly, so when it is poured into little holes in a room-temp pillar, it will harden within about an inch of the pour hole and that's that. The hole is not filled beyond that. This is why mitigation of the air traps inside palm wax should be completed while the candle is still molten inside.

I totally understand is nothing like paraffin or soy. I only mentioned the relief hole poking similar to paraffin so you could get an idea what I was doing. When I poked, the initial hole was the size I would poke in a paraffin candle and from there I went along continuing to poke until I had a large open area.

Except for causing the candle to cool more quickly or taking a chance on scoring the sides, there is no real harm in this. I nearly always peek at some point... It is best not to remove the candle from the mold too quickly because this WILL have an impact on the surface of the candle. In the link I supplied above, on the first page, I posted a photo of a set I had made. I varied the pour temp to get different effects from the wax. If I removed the pillar from the mold too soon, the surface would be more dull... I like a highly polished look to certain areas of my pillars, so even though the large crystals have formed, I choose to let the candle remain in the mold until almost completely cooled for best surface quality. If one is pouring a one-color candle, this may not be as noticeable. The crystal formation will change somewhat if the candle is removed too soon, so for best results, leave it in the mold until it's almost completely cooled (barely warm). HTH

I do/did not take them out of their molds until the next day. When one would accidentally partially slip out as I explained during the removed of the dust/particle type residue I did peek at it but realized when typing the post that maybe my palm should not be: a) either that solid at 5 hours or too solid on the outside but should have had liquid on the inside yet...actually anything but a material easily poked through. Other than handling them for bottom leveling and taking the two pics for this post they were put untouched into a china cabinet I keep my finished products in...in the area I work. I did burn one from each batch early to look for air pockets but the other ones won't be tested until later this week or weekend. I will be doing some and my testers will get the rest. Waiting the extra week + before testing the same batch pillars but after they have had a chance to harden was my line of thinking as well there could be a difference since I did read they get harder as they sit. I haven't noticed the pattern changing in any of them since they came out of the molds tho'. However, I was very pleased with the different patterns they did give me after completely removing from the molds after 24 hours. Before I burned those that I did, I hand polished them with a soft cloth just because I had to see how much sheen I could actually get on them. It was quite a difference from how they were out of the mold.

The cranberry colored ones have a completely different pattern than the pumpkin color, the sage or the gold. They even have that shimmer affect. So cool. I believe I poured them all at the same temp. I know I let them all cool the same amount of time so why the fairly large variance with the one color I don't know but I love it. Maybe the deeper the color the more pattern? They are a deep cranberry color. The others patterned very nice as well just not shimmery with high peaking patterns.

So then, thank you Stella for the reply. Since it wasn't mentioned, I am assuming the way I did do the relief was thorough enough to remove any human possibly found air pockets.

Edited August 30, 2011 by jeanie353

[Stella1952]

I hand polished them with a soft cloth just because I had to see how much sheen I could actually get on them. It was quite a difference from how they were out of the mold.

Palm wax will buff to a very high gloss, just like Turtle wax (carnauba wax). I wait a week to buff mine because the wax is soft before that and will take a better shine once it hardens. Sometimes buffing too soon will remove more material than desired. Be careful NOT to buff sparklies - they will crush & powder and just become white... I have killed some lovely sparkles along the way...

I am not aware that the color of dye makes a difference in the patterning. The appearance happens for two reasons: some colors are "showier" in palm than others. Deep colors, like your cranberry, are particularly nice. And, each pillar is a slightly different temp than the others, each cools a little differently at a slightly different rate. How the candle cools and the temp at which it was poured make all the difference in the patterning. The crystals seem to "gather" color - I don't know if this is an illusion because of the crystal pattern structure or something that happens during crystallization. I have had some that looked almost 2 toned because of the way the crystals formed. I LOVE this aspect of palm wax!!

Since it wasn't mentioned, I am assuming the way I did do the relief was thorough enough to remove any human possibly found air pockets.

I really don't know because I do not have a good handle on what exactly you did... "wrecking" is HARD to explain, isn't it?!! I simply shared the method I use and the illustration that Linda posted in the thread I referenced to help clarify...

The best way to see if your "wrecking" is working is to sacrifice a pillar by cutting it in quarters from top to bottom. If there are any air cavities, you will usually discover them like this. If the pillar is perfect with no air pockets, you can feel reassured that your method is working. If you do find air pockets, then you know you need to do something different to mitigate the air trapping. You can always melt down the pillar or make one out of plain wax so you won't feel as badly about sacrificing a beauty!!

I've been asked before why I choose sacrificing over burning to see about air pockets... When the candle is burning and reaches an air cavity, the melt pool will drain into it. Unless you happen to be watching, you may not see the flare of the wick from the suddenly emptied pool. Now one might think, well, if nothing bad happened, why should that matter? It matters because you cannot truly predict the size of the air pockets, nor the height of the wick flare. This also affects the way the candle burns and makes it more prone to blowouts from the sudden burst of heat. A fellow member had one catch on fire because of this. A sudden flare can cause safety issues, especially in the hands of a customer who may not be paying much attention to their candle. What I shoot for is NO air pockets and the only way I can proof my relief method is to cut the candle open longways in quarters and examine it. If I don't find any, I smile, and dump the messed up pillar back into the melting pot. Even though I have been makig palm wax pillars for many years, I still sacrifice one here and there just to make sure I'm not losing my touch or becoming careless.

the initial hole was the size I would poke in a paraffin candle and from there I went along continuing to poke until I had a large open area

I did this at first - kind of "break on the dotted line" sort of thing until I got "spurted" on one too many times and I noticed my favorite wicked knife laying nearby. That's when I started simply cutting the circle, or disc, of hardened wax on the top (bottom) of the pillar, carefully breaking it into a few smaller pieces and then sinking them as I stirred as deeply as I could into the liquid center of the candle. Less spew means less finishing work and cleaning of eyeglasses (or, in my case, eyelashes).

I haven't noticed the pattern changing in any of them since they came out of the molds tho'.

The pattern change only occurs when the pillar is removed prematurely from the mold and is still quite hot or liquid inside. The pattern WILL change as the candle is burned down, however.

Other than handling them for bottom leveling and taking the two pics for this post

I have ruined my share of pillars... I do no finishing work whatsoever until the candles have cured (upside down) and hardened for 5-7 days. On the rare occasions that I take pics of newborn palm pillars, they are sitting in place on the shelf where they are curing - terrible backdrop, but a work in progress sort of thing... No criticism intended, just tips from a person who has screwed up a lot of stuff along the way.

From the sound of the reply post you mentioned that palm goes from liquid to hard with nothing in between and sounded as if that was inferring it could not be poked at that 5 hour time frame after pouring.

Sure you CAN poke but the wax will not fill in the hole unless the center is liquid. As for 5 hours, that depends on the size of the candle and how quickly it is cooling. In my candle room, at 5 hours with 3" x 6" pillars, the center has usually hardened too much to be poking around in there. Once the "slush" stage happens, there is no liquid to flow into the holes and there will be holes left by the relief work done to relieve the holes LOL. I hope that made sense...

Good luck and have fun! I love working with palm wax more than any other wax because it is so interesting!!

[jeanie353]

Yep, I found it very hard to explain my wrecking, the residue, clumps and chunks.

I will cut one of the ones I was going to remelt open to see what is in there. I may even cut one of the others that have no little air pockets on the bottom as a comparison.

I've watched one too many flare ups on the container palm I've made (and put aside for a later time to retry) that I'm not comfortable letting a pillar go out for sale until I'm as positive as one can reasonably be that it won't flare. As you said, it only takes a few seconds and the turn of a head to miss it. It could cause a fire or not alert me that I had unknown air pockets. I will send some out to my testers because it will take me quite some time to test them all myself but I will admit I am a bit uneasy they will miss a flare up and think I mentioned that in a previous post.

I'd love to know the exact temp the cranberry pillars hit the molds at because if I could duplicate that I'd do it in a heartbeat...whatever it took. Possibly the dark color as you said was enough but the pattern is much different than the others as well.

I have time on my hands while I wait until next week to order a new case of container wax to make the fall scents so if I ever get off this darn computer and back to work I'll cut one or two open and post the pics whether they have air trapped or not... just for informational purposes.

[Stella1952]

I soooo understand what you mean about wanting to replicate your cranberry candle!! One of the first palm pillars we made (with a REAL mold and not a juice can LOL) was a Patchouli Raspberry beauty in starburst wax. We LOVED that candle unconditionally!!!

It was OMG beautiful and OMG wonderful HT. We burned it down but when we reupped on wax (we had only ordered a very small sample size), the candles would not come out right... The "starburst" designation was not made then... we dubbed it "fireworks." We wrote our supplier asking if there was something different, some mistake with the CASE we had bought based on our previous sample... we poured at every temp between slush (don't ask - it was UGLY...you can glop HP soap into a mold and it'll be all good, but NOT palm wax!) and 209° - NO FIREWORKS!!! Much wailing , gnashing of teeth and tearing of hair occurred... Did I mention excessive profanity?

The supplier claimed it was the same. Uh huh. Well, about 10 cases of palm wax later (from everywhere and anywhere we could buy it) and a buttload of pillars, we realized that we'd been punked by our original supplier (or they were dunces and passed the punk on to us)... we sampled starburst but were sold a case of feathering wax.

You can jump, jiggle, shake and dance, but if it's feather, the fireworks go in yo' pants!!

Times have changed since then... praise the lord and pour the starburst.

Moral of the story is: Take GREAT, COPIOUS, EXCESSIVE, OCD notes about EVERYTHING you do from start to finish so that if you need to replicate your results, you will have something to go on, despite what anyone else tells you! LOLOL

I've watched one too many flare ups on the container palm I've made

I wreck those, too, then take a heat gun to the tops. Others use the TOPsy Turvey container method (popularized and possibly invented by none other than CS's TopofMurrayHill) where you wait for the top to solidify to a certain point, then turn the whole thing upside down so the air bubbles rise to the surface (which is now the bottom) where they won't hurt anything, allegedly. CandyBee (and others probably) uses this method and says it works great. Me, I still wreck. But so long as the air pockets are mitigated or positioned to where they can do no harm, it's all GOOD, right? Give it a try and see what YOU think!!:yay: Edited August 31, 2011 by Stella1952

[jeanie353]

Edited August 31, 2011 by jeanie353

[jeanie353]

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ok...I could not figure out how to type on my attachment....I take such horrible pics and the candle is not narrower at the bottom. It is much darker but I hear ya...gotta love cranberry. Now after seeing yours, I think I like the starburst better. I have no fireworks Does it wick the same as feather?

I am hoping beyond hope that The Candlemaker's Store palm works like CS did. CSN 14 so far has been perfect on these. Or...if the wax is better I will pay shipping to get it elsewhere. I get my container wax imported all the way to WI from PA just because it is so worth it.

I did do the upside down thing with the container palm I did. I did not have CSN wicks at the time but CDN did flare a bit. Not bad but enough that I was not comfortable with it quite yet. Most likely little pockets and not the wick so when I do go back to those over winter when things slow back down, I will try one with each wick to see if there is a difference. First time my daughter walked through seeing a candle cooling upside down she said....just when she thought she had seen it all opening the refrig to see more wax stuff than food. I have more kitchen utensils used for wax and B&B than cooking these days too.

Edited August 31, 2011 by jeanie353

[Stella1952]

Jeannie, your pillar is BEAUTIFUL!! A perfect example of a feathering palm wax pillar. The darker color is so showy in that pattern!!

Folks have posted some photos of mixed fathering & starburst palm wax pillars that are just outta sight!! That's the beauty of palm wax - it's very hard to make an uggababy candle with it!!

[jeanie353]

Jeannie, your pillar is BEAUTIFUL!! A perfect example of a feathering palm wax pillar. The darker color is so showy in that pattern!!

Folks have posted some photos of mixed fathering & starburst palm wax pillars that are just outta sight!! That's the beauty of palm wax - it's very hard to make an uggababy candle with it!!

Oh, something new to play with. I am going to get a sample of starburst in a month or so to give it a try in the pattern vs feather and also to see if it wicks as nicely as feather palm did. Then I'll just have to try mixing them and see what happens. The fun never ends in this hobby/business does it?

Edited August 31, 2011 by jeanie353