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Heat Gun and GW 464


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When needed (rarely), I could fix the tops of CB-Advanced with a heat gun and they'd look great. If I try the same thing with GW464 I end up with a top uglier that I started with, cracks elevations and huge amounts of frosting. I am sure that I have read that people touch up 464 with a heat gun but it doesn't work for me, any ideas as to why?

I heat the top using the low setting and use it until the entire surface is melted, not to any great depth but it's all melted. Then allow to cool. Do I need to melt deeper, if so about how much?

Thanks

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any ideas as to why

Yes. Those two waxes have very different formulas. CBA is a more stable wax and more resistant to the temperature changes that cause polymorphism in soy waxes. Best defense is learn how to pour 464 so that you don't need to use the heat gun.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger - C3 doesn't much like heat guns either. No matter how lightly or how deeply I use a heat gun on it, the top will never be as pretty as when it's poured correctly. Sometimes, if the flaw I am trying to correct is very minor, I can get away with it, but most of the time, I end up wishing I had left well enough alone. If a top is really screwed up, I remelt the candle in the oven and let it cool there.

Tip: don't cut the wick until you are satisfied with the top in case it needs to be remelted.

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I've found the trick is to make sure I heat my glass too, which makes it a bit of a pain in the butt for holding, but makes for even tops. I also make sure the melt pool is a good 1/4" at least. I get perfect tops that way if I need to do some touch up.. but its not a quick process so I try my best to avoid it lol

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