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Panthenol in a serum


caryfh

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I would like to incorporate DL-panthenol into a serum recipe I have, but cannot figure out how to go about this since it is an anhydrous formulation, and panthenol is soluble in water. Ugh.

The formulation uses...

Cyclomethicone

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Tocopherols

Ascorbic Acid

Silica

The ascorbic acid also said it was water soluble, but that it does best in anhydrous formulations, so somehow that is working in this situation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The ascorbic acid also said it was water soluble, but that it does best in anhydrous formulations, so somehow that is working in this situation.

Where did you read that it works best in anhydrous? there is an anhydrous FORM, is that what you mean? but this means there's no water in the ascorbic, not that it dissolves in anhydrous situations.

It's soluble in water, ethanol, and glycerin, and insoluble in oil.

This article http://complex31.com/articles/JCD-T2-Asc-Immi.PDF talks about using "microfine particles" of ascorbic acid in an anhydrous formula. I didn't finish reading it, but I'm guessing that it's moisture from the skin that somehow dissolves the particles and allows them to interact with skin.

Edited by CareBear
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