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OMG! I messed up!!!


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I have been using Adv. Soy and Excel and pouring at 130 degrees. I guess those types of soy waxes are forgiving. I get nice smooth tops but I haven't lite them yet. Oh btw I'm in my testing phase. LOL! So I read how GW 415 gives a really great Hot Throw and thought I'd try it out. Well its is pure soy so its not as forgiving I found out. I poured at 120 degrees. Oppsee! The tops were so bumpy. They looked like Grubby candles. I put them in the oven to melt their tops. Made them worse! So my next batch I poured at 100 degrees as recommended. Lets hope those come out better or I'm going back to the other brands. Lol! Anyway is there any advice that anyone has about what I'm doing or not doing? Thanks!

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Hi to a fellow Georgian and welcome to the board! You will find a lot of nice people and a wealth of knowledge here.

I started with the Advanced, then tried the 444, 415 and have settled on the 464. I'm fairly new as well and still trying to create a consistent, safe candle. The CB Adv is hard to screw up but it doesn't have much of a hot throw. Haven't tried the Excel, although according to testers on the board, it does have a better HT than the Advanced. But, still less than other waxes. Do a search in the Vegetable Wax forum for Excel. You should find quite a few threads on testing results.

I never conquered 415, always got the mashed potato tops. And, my HT was so-so. Which is why I switched to 464. Was doing really good testing that until I got my first bad batch. The wax would not harden no matter what I did. After doing a lot of research here, ended up buying some USA (Universal Soy Additive) from The Candlemakers Store. It increases the hardness, helps with wet spots and is supposed to improve scent throw. Just remember, if you use additives you will probably need to adjust your wicking. So, keep really good notes.

For the 464, I've found the cooler I can pour, the smoother the tops. And, I'll get very little frosting with the darker colors. Other tips are warming the jars, covering with a box or towel while cooling, putting the jars on a wire rack, or putting them in a warm oven. You will just have to find the best trick that works for you and your workspace. Environmental conditions can be as big a factor on candles just as much as fo, colorant, wick, and additives. You will be doing a lot of testing and you will need a lot of patience!! :cheesy2: Soy can be finicky and temperamental. And searching this board will help tremendously. Someone has usually had the same problem at one time or another.

Good luck and welcome to your new obsession!! :yay:

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Welcome to the board. Everyone has their own way of doing things. I have always steered clear of the CB advanced and excel due to the poor throw.

Have used both 415 and 464 and now use a custom blend of 464 and a soft container palm. For the most part I get great hot and cold throw, smooth tops and no wet spots. I pour between 180 - 190 with no issues at all.

I did like the 415, but being as impatient as I am I could not stand waiting for the damn wax to go slushy so the 464 / palm combo totally suits me.

It will also come down to the oil / wick / jar combination you are using as well. I have a shelf of oils that just do not work for me in my blend of wax at all, most from Natures Garden. Having said that, they get used in melts as they do throw very well in that medium.

Good luck with it and most of all have loads of fun creating your products.

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Well I have been poring now with the 415 at 100 degrees. I agree i have no patience to wait that long but I'm not sure if I can return unused wax to the supplier? anyone Know? I'll probably just call them. lol! Anyway out of about 30 candles only one came out smooth. I used a heat gun on all the other tops to make them smooth. Anyway I pretty much hate 415 so I'm going to try 464 and CB 135. Heard they are good. Lets hope cause I'm running out of money! LOL! I'm having a small get together of friends to let them smell the 60 fragrances I have made so I can narrow it down to about 27 or so. BTW I'm using LX-26 and ECO-14 wicks. I have 10oz apothecary jars with a 3.5-4in jar diameter. Anyway I;m having fun and hope to make a little money as a bonus.:yay: Thanks for the help and info so far. Keep it coming friends!!!

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Well I have been poring now with the 415 at 100 degrees. I agree i have no patience to wait that long but I'm not sure if I can return unused wax to the supplier? anyone Know? I'll probably just call them. lol! Anyway out of about 30 candles only one came out smooth. I used a heat gun on all the other tops to make them smooth. Anyway I pretty much hate 415 so I'm going to try 464 and CB 135. Heard they are good. Lets hope cause I'm running out of money! LOL! I'm having a small get together of friends to let them smell the 60 fragrances I have made so I can narrow it down to about 27 or so. BTW I'm using LX-26 and ECO-14 wicks. I have 10oz apothecary jars with a 3.5-4in jar diameter. Anyway I;m having fun and hope to make a little money as a bonus.:yay: Thanks for the help and info so far. Keep it coming friends!!!

Let your 415 cool more, 100 degrees is still too hot. See if your tops are better at 90 or even less.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Make a rustic candle, and the bumpy top adds to it. I can see where the customers are used to soy being bumpy. In fact, when I was smoothing it out, I had people ask if it was true soy. I am in Texas. I guess there are others that are making a rustic looking candle too. I got tired of worrying about it.

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