Soylicious Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 (edited) OK, I did it~!!! I poured my first GG containers today and they came out beautiful! I did have a couple of problems though and I'm sure I can get them figured out with some words of wisdom from any of you who have more experience than I... Ok, I tried wrecking the tops, but I'm not sure even how to do that.. I did see some air bubbles trapped under the surface, and took a skewer and poked a couple of holes into the air bubble... Other than that, I'm not sure what I'm doing.... So, how do you properly "Wreck" a top for GG? Stella, I have read that you posted a thread on how to do that but I couldn't find it, do you possibly have a link? I'm not sure I even did it right... Also, during the "wrecking process I did, I used a heat gun to remelt the tops to fill in the holes I poked and it left a difference in the crystal pattern for the first 1/4" of the candle.. I have attached a couple of pics so you can tell me all what you think All in all, I'm pretty happy with the outcome, they are very beautiful! Oh and I used 1oz FO pp and 1 dye chip pp... 3" container and I wicked it with a CSN 12. Fragrance was "Twilight Woods" from CS... Yummy... I pre-heated the containers with my heatgun as the house I'm renting a room in doesn't have a working oven... lol... OK, trying to figure out how to attach a picture..... I did it before but I can't seem to remember..hmmmm!!! Edited May 29, 2010 by Soylicious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soylicious Posted May 29, 2010 Author Share Posted May 29, 2010 (edited) OK, Figured it out~ Let me know what you all think OH and I poured at a temp of 195 and cooled on a cookie sheet that I set on top of a cutting board. Then I covered them with a small box until they were pretty formed on the outside edges mostly... It's way faster paced getting ready to pour than Soy wax (yawn).. LOL No downtime from adding FO and Dye to the pouring stage.. gotta git' er done!!! Edited May 29, 2010 by Soylicious to add information :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snewbie Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 (edited) The pattern difference is caused by using the heat gun. Ditch it with palm wax.Poke 1-3 holes with a thin metal skewer close to the wick nearly all the way to the bottom when the wax has formed a significant crust, but before it is much more than half cooled. This is my general palm wax method. I am just a newbie, but Ive been eating and breathing palm wax for 4 months now. 2 pours and you are done usually once you get the timing down.That glassglow is awesome. I gotta try and get some. Edited May 29, 2010 by snewbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snewbie Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 I forgot to say that you still want to use the heat gun to warm your glass first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 I always use a heat gun to level my tops on my glass glow candles and I know several others here also do the same. You can either heat gun the top or do a repour to level your candle tops. Either method works well and should not effect the crystal pattern.I notice the pattern difference begins about 1/2 or so from the top of the candle. This would be more likely the result from the top cooling too fast. You can try covering the candles with a box as they cool. You want to strive for even cooling with the top and bottom of your candles.Also, you could also try putting your candles on a rack to cool. This allows the air to flow around the jar and helps with even cooling.You will have to experiment a little to find what works best for you in your work area. Everyone has their own method so there is no right or wrong way to do it. Just what works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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