well, I did it...and a couple of questions

[TFCbrooke]

I poured my first soy candles today.

I used MillCreek Soy Wax 125 and Christmas Speldor FO (also from MC).

I weighed out 8oz of wax and 0.5oz of FO.

Melted wax to 180. Let cool to 175 and added FO. Let cool to 100 and poured. (those were the directions that MC sent)

I used the 4oz jelly jars from CandleScience. Empty they weighed 4oz. I did the tare button on my scale and poured in the wax, which filled to the bottom of the grooves on the jar weighed out to be 2oz.

I used three different wicks to test. ECO 10, ECO 12, and CSN 12.

I had leftover wax so I poured it into a clamshell. I know it's container and not votive wax, but what the hay! LOL

So far they appear to be setting up nicely.

For my questions...

(1) How long do I need to let them "cure" before I test burn?

(2) How on earth do y'all weigh out your FOs? I tried pouring it into this little dish thing but I ended up getting more FO on me than I did in the dish the first time.

(3) For burn test...the jar is 2.75 inches diameter so I burn for like 2 hours 45 minutes the first time? Should it be liquid all over the top or just an inch out from the center (the wick)? I've been reading on here but am still confused because I've read so many different things!

(4) Would I actually call this a 2oz candle? not 4oz? I purchased one from someone and it was the same exact jar and he called it a 4oz candle.

THANKS!!

Pics tomorrow...I have to find some batteries.

Edited December 9, 2009 by TFCbrooke

[elfcat]

As far as cure time, each wax is different so hopefully someone who uses it will chime in.

I use the little solo cups to weigh and measure my FO. They work great. Just don't leave them filled with FO and make sure you throw the cup away right afterward. The cup melts from the FO. Many times I've accidently left the cup on the counter after making candles and come back a few hours later to find the cup melted to the counter top and that's with just a few drops!

I always call my jars and tins the size they are, not the amount of wax they hold.

[Stella1952]

(1) How long do I need to let them "cure" before I test burn?

I wait at least 48 hours before burning to allow the wax to harden a little and to allow the FO to permeate the wax thoroughly. Some FOs can take a couple of weeks to "come into their own" with the wax I use (NatureWax C3). Most of the time, I just set testers aside (preferably where I cannot see them!) for about a week before burning.

(2) How on earth do y'all weigh out your FOs? I tried pouring it into this little dish thing but I ended up getting more FO on me than I did in the dish the first time.

I put my pour pot on the scale, tare, then add the FO. I tare again and add the wax. When you have never done this before, it feels awkward, I know, but it won't always feel so strange. There are squirt tops you can buy to make this easier, but it really is just a matter of becoming used to pouring from bottles. When testing, pouring half of a 1 oz. tester IS a PITA. When I test, I work in even pounds (1 ounce per pound). So I make 3 candles with an ounce or so left over for a little tart or tealight, etc.

(3) For burn test...the jar is 2.75 inches diameter so I burn for like 2 hours 45 minutes the first time? Should it be liquid all over the top or just an inch out from the center (the wick)? I've been reading on here but am still confused because I've read so many different things!

Yes. 2 hours 45 minutes is correct, although if you decided to push it to an even 3 hours each time, I don't think you would be struck by lightening. Just be sure to burn for the same amount of time for every test burn. Your candle may not achieve FMP (full melt pool) on the first burn - some candles don't until the third burn. That's not the end-all & be-all of testing. Container candles become hotter during the last half of the burn when the flame is further down in the jar and heats up more, so don't freak out if it doesn't have a FMP the first or second burn - by the 3rd burn, you can expect the FMP to happen and any hangup from previous burns will "catch up" as the candle burns down into the container. Keep the wick centered and be sure to test out of drafts. If the MP starts to burn off-center, turn the candle a little or adjust the wick centering by pushing at the base of the wick under the flame.

(4) Would I actually call this a 2oz candle? not 4oz? I purchased one from someone and it was the same exact jar and he called it a 4oz candle.

I find it surprising that the candle only held 2 oz of wax and not 3 oz... But anyway... I pour 5 oz of wax into an 8 oz wide mouth canning jar. The NET WEIGHT of the CONTENTS is 5 oz, but the container is still an 8 oz widemouth canning jar. On my product literature, I call them 8 oz widemouth canning jars 'cause that's what they are! Candle labels must state the NET WEIGHT of the CONTENTS of the product by law. How you list them on your website or in literature is totally up to you, but to prevent confusion when customers are trying to get an idea of the size of the product, use whatever size the container is sold by, then if you wish, you can state that your 4 oz jelly jars contain 2 oz of scented wax in the description. HTH

Edited December 9, 2009 by Stella1952

[topofmurrayhill]

(1) How long do I need to let them "cure" before I test burn?

You'd want to wait some days to test the scent throw. It depends on stuff like the wax and the FO and your patience. However, you could start testing wicks after just a day or two if you want to get going, but you should eventually test in a fully cured candle.

(2) How on earth do y'all weigh out your FOs? I tried pouring it into this little dish thing but I ended up getting more FO on me than I did in the dish the first time.

You can use squeeze tops like these for better control: http://stores.ebay.com/CANDLECHEM-COMPANY_Dispensing-Caps_W0QQ_fsubZ11166473QQ

(3) For burn test...the jar is 2.75 inches diameter so I burn for like 2 hours 45 minutes the first time? Should it be liquid all over the top or just an inch out from the center (the wick)? I've been reading on here but am still confused because I've read so many different things!

It's not meant to be that precise on the basis of diameter. 3 to 4 hour burn sessions for basic testing is appropriate for virtually all the containers people use. For a small container like that one you might want to find a wick that does the job with 3 hour burns, whereas with a larger single-wicked container you'd need to burn longer.

If the wax melts clean out to the edge near the top of the container, the candle is very aggressively wicked. An overwicked candle can have a limited burn time before it starts to smoke, may get too hot as it burns down, may blacken as it burns down, and the wick may need to be trimmed like a religion. It may also torch up too much if you light it without trimming the wick.

If the melt pool gets nowhere near the edge and flame looks small, it may tunnel down the center or the wick may drown out as it burns.

If it's somewhere in between and you're not sure, then you're close enough to keep testing. You may have to burn several times or a good ways down to decide the wick is a reject. If it seems to be doing OK you have to burn it all the way down to declare it a winner. Hangup on the glass isn't a big deal unless there's a lot of it when the candle is fully burned.

(4) Would I actually call this a 2oz candle? not 4oz? I purchased one from someone and it was the same exact jar and he called it a 4oz candle.

Candles are sold on the basis of net weight, so it's not a 4 oz candle. It may be a 4 oz jelly jar, but that's a misleading way to sell it. I think you should double-check the weight though. Some scales don't register properly if you add weight too gradually. Just to be sure, weigh one of your finished candles and compare it to an empty jar.