Newbie With ?????

[sanjon1998]

Hello everyone, I recently purchased a soy container candle from someone (about 5 months ago) and I feel in LOVE. I decided to try to do it myself. I was told to use GB 464 wax and HTP (I think) wicks and coconut oil to hold the scent... Is this good?? I ordered some wax from Ebay and the candles Turned out frosty looking and they burned forming a hole right in the center and some where ashy looking on top. I had all kinds of problems, I can't remember what kind of wax it was but not the 464, it was a disaster.

I am looking for smooth tops, straight across burning, and wonderful scent. If I can just get a heads up as far as what kind of wax and wicks I would really appreciate it. I really believe I can do this and I really want to. Thanks In Advance

[nursenancy]

I am looking for smooth tops, straight across burning, and wonderful scent

Aren't we all? LOL

Seriously though - those attributes that you mentioned are what all chandlers strive for and it's not as easy as it seems. Especially with soy.

I have been making soy candes for years and still learn something new every day.

My suggestion to you would be to buy a kit from a reputable supplier (such as Peaks - top notch) and go from there.

Also it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the search function on the board. Tons of info to be found under the Veggie candle section.

HTH

Nancy

PS - welcome to the board!

[soy327]

Hi, welcome to the board, I would try the ecosoya advance from Peak Candle Supply, unless you have a supplier closer to where you live and they carry it. Get a CD wick sample pack, and you probably have your fragrance and color already. The problem is I think you will have to order it by the 10lb bag, but It's only about $15.00. Good luck with whatever you decide and let us know how it's going. You can post all your questions here and somebody will help.

Linda

P.s. start with only obout 1/2 tablespoon per pound of the coconut oil, the same thing happened to me when I experimented in the 415.

[Stella1952]

I STILL like NatureWax C3. It is pretty reliable, particularly when one uses a few additives, nice texture & surface, great hot & cold throw.

EVERYONE has their opinions as to what's the "best" - you will have to test to see what works for you. Soy wax is NOT an easy wax with which to work, so be prepared to take lots of notes and do a LOT of testing.

My best suggestion is to read, read, read through the threads in the veggie wax forum. There is so much information there for anyone willing to take the time to read. Good luck & have fun!

[kimmeroo]

It's funny..I started out with C3 about 7 yrs. ago or so...it frosted really bad so I switched to 415..it also frosted and I never got nice tops without heating w/heatgun..I tried Advanced..loved it...but scent throw only on certain scents...tried 464...alot like 415..imho...went back to C3 and this is where I will stay..unless something drastic happens..lol!

I don't use any additives..I heat my C3 to 200* in a presto pot...turn off the pot let wax set for a day..then I turn back on to 200* and in a pourpot add color(if using)and fo(scent)and stir,stir,stir.I hardly ever have to heat the tops.I also make sure the containers are on a towel so they will cool slower.

That may sound too good to be true..but it works for me.I also use tumblers for my jars and HTP wicks(tumblers) , and CD wicks(8oz.sq.mason,22oz

Clinder jar that I dbl. wick).

The tops don't always stay nice once burned..but as far as I am concerned...who cares.Beforei made candles I never did.

Kim

[Catlover]

I'm also a newbie, having only been testing waxes, wicks & fo's for about a year, but I've finally settled on the 464 wax with CD wicks. Nothing's absolute perfection, but that's part of the hand-poured charm! I have cube containers, which have been challenging to wick to get most of the hang out of the corners without creating an inferno at the end.

I don't use any dyes, so that eliminates the frosting problem, but with the 464/CD combo, the tops are smooth to gently rolling (I sound like a realtor), the mushrooming wicks are minimal, and without using any additives, I'm getting good throw with almost all the fo's I've tried. (I get all of mine from Candle Science.)

Have fun!

Terri

[sanjon1998]

Thank you (everyone) for responding so quick. I figured it out.....EDUCATE MYSELF AND TEST MY PRODUCT so I guess I can't just jump into this thing like I thought huh? LOL Anyway, I will continue to read the posts daily and I'm gonna try candlescience.com ( I guess) and just go from there. I belive I can do this it's just gonna take some time and patience. THANKS GUYS!!!!

Edited October 28, 2009 by sanjon1998

[Stella1952]

I don't use any dyes, so that eliminates the frosting problem

Nope, not true. You may not SEE the frosting as readily, but there are other crystal phases other than frosting. Dyes CAN promote frosting, but so does FO, EO and manufacturing the candles at the wrong temps or storing them at fluctuating temps.

I belive I can do this it's just gonna take some time and patience.

Good attitude!! While we all argue back and forth about the relative merits of our favorite waxes, additives, techniques, FOs, etc., we were all new to this at one time and none of us makes flawless, perfect candles every single time! Soy wax is like cats - you never "master" it, but you learn to cooperate and coexist. It ALWAYS has lessons to teach us, especially when we get to feelin' too smug!!

Don't be afraid - just do your homework and take the plunge. If things don't go perfectly, you can always come and ask for suggestions here.

[soy327]

Kimmeroo,

I'm not sure I understand about heating the wax to 200 and shutting it off and leaving until the next day. Does this do something I don't know?:confused: 6" of snow here in Colorado:mad:

Linda

[Catlover]

Stella, as I said, I'm a newbie too....so can you give me a quick explanation of frosting if it doesn't refer to the way the color is affected? I don't think we ever stop learning new things! Thanks~

[Stella1952]

I'm not sure I understand about heating the wax to 200 and shutting it off and leaving until the next day. Does this do something

This is one way of tempering the wax. Helps improve the texture and prevent frosting.

a quick explanation of frosting if it doesn't refer to the way the color is affected?

Soy wax is basically soybean oil that has been hardened by hydrogenation into a solid fat. Many vegetable fats are "polymorphic." This means that they can harden into more than one crystal pattern (or phase) depending on temperature & other factors (certain FOs & dyes have an impact). A good discussion of this can be found at the NGI (manufacturer of EcoSoya products) website:

http://www.ngiwax.com/resources/whitepages/soywaxpolymorphism.html

Frosting doesn't affect the burn characteristics, but it is cosmetically unappealing. It not only changes the color of the wax, it changes the texture of it also.

A picture's worth 1,000 words:

Frosting beginning on newly poured candle

From the side a day or so later...

Edited October 29, 2009 by Stella1952

[soy327]

Stella,

Is the tempering something that most candle makers practice and does it work? With any wax? I've never heard of this before what an education I'm getting here.:rolleyes2 What about using powdered dyes, will this take care of the frosting problem?

Is that candle (in the picture)one of yours? When I see that on the side of a jar I take a heat gun to it but it usually is little bubles that come to the surface.

Linda

Edited October 29, 2009 by soy327

[Stella1952]

Is the tempering something that most candle makers practice and does it work?

I have no idea what most chandlers practice. Some practice piano and others practice voodoo, I think! If you search the forums for more information on "tempering," there is a LOT in the threads. I temper NatureWax C3 and it makes my candles mo' better for all the reasons already stated ad infinitum. I can't speak for others nor any other kind of wax.

Is that candle (in the picture)one of yours? When I see that on the side of a jar I take a heat gun to it but it usually is little bubles that come to the surface.

Yep, the candle in the photo was one of mine - I took that one and burned it!! Sure smelled good even if it was turnin' ugly! I do not use a heatgun on frosting - it often exacerbates the problem. I definitely don't heatgun the glass container! *faint* If frosting as bad as the one in the photo develops on one of my candles, I remove it from my sales stock. Some folks don't. Some folks even LIKE frosting. To each his/her own. I think it looks like fungus and I would not be proud to sell candles that look like that, so I try my best not to make 'em that way.