joanncat18 Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Hi all. I am new to candle making and this forum. I got a kit from peak for votives and that was fun so I bought 4 sheet metal molds for pillars, but I am having some issues. My first pillar candles weren't horrible but have some flaws. The ones I did yesterday have specks of the dye chips on top. It seemed like everything was mixed well. When I put one of the scented oils into the wax, it looked like an "oil and water" effect and that the scented oil wasn't mixing well with the wax. I don't know what the problem was. Also what is the best way to clean the metal molds? I have been baking them in the oven on a baking sheet with paper towels on it for about 8 min, but it still seems like there is residue in my pots and on the molds. It wont all come off. The other thing I noticed is that my mold sealer is so sticky that it leaves a nasty residue on the mold bottom. It's pretty gross to remove too. Is there a less messy kind of sealer. I got the basic mold sealer from peak. Or maybe a way to clean it off better. Another problem I have is it seems hard to level the bottoms of the candles...I get how to do it but they still don't seem very level. I made a star pillar and it's fairly level but still rocks side to side slightly like the bottom is not very level. Maybe there is an easier way. I have been using a cake pan on top of a pot of boiling water. Can you use a heat gun to level at all? I don't know if this would work to level before taking it out of the mold. I'd appreciate any tips. Thanks. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Welcome to the board and the hobby We need some basic info to answer. What kind of wax were you using for the pillars? What kind of dye chips? (Some are pigment and don't actually dissolve, they just have to be stirred thoroughly enough to stay suspended until the wax cools) What temp did you mix the dye and FO in at? If neither mixed in well it sounds like the wax wasn't hot enough. Some FO's are harder to mix and may need extra stirring, taking care not to whip air into the wax though. Preheating the oil helps sometimes too.Cleaning molds - I gave up on cleaning them thoroughly a long time ago. I give em a zap with the heat gun and a swipe with a paper towel. Same for pour pots. That minute amount of residue really makes no difference IMO.I like Peaks mold sealer better than any other I've used, unless their formula has changed in the last couple years. Are you trying to remove it while it's hot? Room temp is easiest. It just peels right off. If some bits are left behind, just rub it with the main wad and it usually pulls it off.Leveling is a PITA, no matter how you do it as far as I'm concerned...LOL. The easiest way I found is pour and cool the molds on a very level surface and eliminate as much unevenness as possible to start with. Usually I only have a tiny nipple in the middle and a very thin ridge around the outside that needs trimmed. Holding the knife at an angle and scraping works better for me than cutting into the wax. You're less likely to cut deep. Use a light touch and remove thin layers at a time. With straight sided molds, you can slide the candle out just to the lowest edge and use a knife to gently scrape and excess that hangs over. I've tried a lot of different methods for leveling by melting the wax and didn't have luck with any of them. Others will pop in with their own ways, maybe they can help you more.Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joanncat18 Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 Well thanks for your opionions so far. I was using IGI 4625 pillar blend of wax, regular color dye chips (redi glo) from peak- not pigment. The FO was pink sugar from peak. The wax was around 190 I think when I added them. I wanted to pour hot this time to see if I would get less surface blemishes on the top of the candle. I mixed 2 pots of the wax with different FO and dye and both of them flecked on the top. Well both used the same red dye chip, but one was a lot less for pink and the rest went into the other pot for warm apple pie. The end result doesn't actually look that bad, but I don't want it to happen each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Sealing mold my favorite way is metal tape you can get it at any hardware store.Now dyes if you are having that much problem you might want to melt you dye chips first then add a little melted wax to the dyes and then reincorporate in to you wax batch.Some FO like Stella said take a while to mix well also make sure you are not using to much. Use a digital scale to get exactly how much you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sassyQ Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 On sealing molds, I use "a man's fix-all" duct tape. It is wonderful. I use two short pieces, criss-crossed, making sure it is long enough to cover all of the rubber pin and wick. I use liquid dyes so do not have a fleck problem. I agree on weighing the FO and checking the temperature, and definitely warming if it is cold where you are. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joanncat18 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 Thanks all. I will order liquid dye the next time and maybe try duct tape for sealing. Another question...when selecting wics for container candles, if you have an irregular shaped container, such as a heart or star, should you use 2 wics or is one ok? Do you still select the wic based on diameter of the candle if it's a short fat container? Thanks. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joanncat18 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 So I am glad this site exists because I am learning a lot searching through the threads. I realized that I shouldn't be worrying about different shaped containers until I master one...one at a time. So the process of testing is it just pick your container type and then try different waxes with different wics and then test each and every FO in it like this? I am trying to figure out an efficient process for testing. I think I will start with IGI 4636 (j50)...I have heard good things about it on here as far as a good container candle. Unless that info is outdated. If anyone has another suggestion let me know. I will start pouring jelly jars simply because of expense...I like the apothecary jars better, but maybe later I will do that. So 4636 in a jelly jar...any suggestions of where to start wick testing? And is 1/2 oz per lb or 1 oz per lb recommended? I hear you only NEED 1/2 oz and 1 oz for very strong candles. FO of course. I have been looking for a supplier near me but the closest is like 5 hours away in Seattle. So I think I will have to pay shipping. I like in Washington State. Any suggestions on who might have the lowest shipping rates for wax and jars? I really appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 It sounds like you have a really good start going if you run in to problem just ask we try to help.I do not use that wax so I can not help you wick wise.Candle Soylutions moved up you way you might want to check them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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