Debbie73 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I have 2 jars I am having a hard time wicking. One jar is a 3 1/4 oz wisper jar that is 2" by 2". The other is a 4 1/2 oz. vibe jar that is 2 1/4" by 3". I am using glass glow from candle science. I am using 5% FO, is this too much to be using for this small of jar? I have cd wick sizes in 4,5,6,7 & 8. Thanking you in advance! Debbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootie04 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Which wicks have you tried and what were the results?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Which wicks have you tried and what were the results??I have used the cd 4 and 5 with I think too much hang up. I skipped to the cd 7 and am trying it. I also cut back the FO to 3%. I have never made anything this small. I have these same jars in the next size up using 2 cd 6 wicks, with 5% FO. They burn great! Now trying to learn to wick smaller jars with one wick. I'm sorry that I did not give enough info earlier!! Debbie :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootie04 Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Have you tried the CSN (I think that is what they are..) that CS has for the Palm waxes?? I have not played with the Palm yet so maybe someone will chime in and help ya.tootie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Have you tried the CSN (I think that is what they are..) that CS has for the Palm waxes?? I have not played with the Palm yet so maybe someone will chime in and help ya.tootieI made one yesterday using the cd 7. While I was making candles today, thought I would go ahead and burn it. ( I know I should have waited!) I burned it for about 2 1/2 hrs and there was a tiny mushroom, not bad at all, but went ahead and trimmed it and re-lit. I burned it for a total of 6 hours. It is leaving a little bit of a shell and I will see if it will eventually burn off, if not I will try a cd 8. It is burning really well, the flame is good with a very small melt pool. I've never burned a small jar, so I don't know how deep of a melt pool it can get. All in all I was very happy with it. It does have a little bit of discoloration, not too bad. I don't know if it was the long burn or if too much FO. I did use 3%. It also had a wonderful HT. I used Blue Skies from Aroma Haven. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know! Debbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 For best results, you should burn the candle about 1 hour per inch of diameter, extinguish & allow the wax to completely cool, trim the wick and relight, etc. Once you get the wicking dialed in, THEN do a power burn to make sure the container doesn't heat up too much when continuously burned from start to finish (or longer than the recommended burn time).It is pretty common for a palm wax candle to NOT achieve a FMP on the first burn, but it will catch up on subsequent burns. Palm wax can be more difficult to get a clean burn on small jars because it burns down, then out. I'm looking at a 2 3/8" W x 2 1/2 H square container I made with glass glow (1 oz. FO pp) and wicked with a CDN 10 that had a good burn - a little hangup in the corners was all that was left. The same size wick cleans the sides of a similar-sized hex jar we use. The shape of the container does affect how cleanly the candle burns. I would rather have a wee bit of hangup in the corners of square or hex shaped containers than overheat the glass trying to burn off every speck of wax.I suspect you will have to wick up for a more complete burn. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hi, Stella! Thank you very much for your valuable input!! I already carry the larger size jar just like this little bitty one and wanted to give customers an option on sizes. Like I said I never have burned a candle this small even when I would buy candles, so I had no idea what to expect. I was so excited when I saw how it was burning, that I thought I would just let it go and see what would happen. This one had such a tiny melt pool to it and the jar was barely warm, but then it has that thin shell on it, so there was some insulation to keep it from getting hot. I'm sure I will probably be going up another wick size. Stella, I know you make palm wax candles, do you have some that discolor after you burn them for a while? I did not have this problem with dark colors for winter, but for spring and summer I would like to make some light colored candles. After my marathon burn with my small candle, I am already seeing it a tiny bit. Just wondering! Also, Stella, I want to thank you for the suggestion of the silicone for attaching the wicks. It now has gotten to every time I am test burning I have wicks detaching from the bottom of the jar. Just wanted to thank you again. :yay::yay:Debbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Stella, I know you make palm wax candles, do you have some that discolor after you burn them for a while? This is a phenom I have read about and seen occasionally in other candles, but I can honestly say I have never had a candle discolor - palm or soy. I make dark colors as well as light and uncolored... I have never had a problem with any of the FOs I use causing discoloration although obviously there are some out there which do contribute to this phenomenon. What I would suggest is that if a FO is causing discoloration in your candles, try the same fragrance from a different supplier.Having said all that, palm wax color does seem to change sometimes when burned because the crystal formation is altered by the heat of burning - sometimes it appears slightly lighter, but if the crystal pattern is lost, can appear darker. This is not a darkening or lightening of the basic color, but a change in the color's appearance because of the changed crystalization pattern. Because this is an optical illusion caused by the difference in the way the light is refracted through the wax crystals, there's nothing that can be done about it. Here's an example... palm wax can make very lovely, shiny black candles if poured cool (no crystals). If the same wax is poured hot (many crystals), it will appear to be frosty dark grey instead of black. Same stuff, but the way the crystals refract the light creates the "frostier" appearance. As a highly crystallized candle is burned, it may cool more quickly and lose some of the pattern, making the affected part of the candle appear darker.HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 Stella, Thank you! How did you get so smart? I can only hope that one day I will know at least half of what you know about palm wax. Debbie :cheesy2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caramel Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Pardon my ignorance, but what constitutes a power burn? I tried looking this up and came up with nothing. Thanks and sorry for hijacking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootie04 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 A powerburn is when you light the candle and let it burn for a LONG time....like most customers will do.tootie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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