Abbreviations and INCI information for Soaping/B&B

[Sara]

Notes from archive on abbreviations:

A - Acceleration

CP - Cold Process, Cold Processed. Soapmaking method where the soap mixture is mixed and poured at room temperature (more or less).

CPHP - Crock Pot Hot Soap. Soapmaking method where the soap mixture is cooked in a crock pot.

CPOP - Cold Process, Oven Process. Soapmaking method where the soap mixture is poured into moulds, which are then placed into the oven and "baked" at very low temperature.

CSDBHP - An HP method where the soap mixture is cooked in a Closed System Double Boiler.

CSHP - An HP method where the soap mixture is cooked in a Closed System (for instance, a pressure cooker).

D - Discoloration

DH - Rather than Dear Husband, it's Direct Heat. Yet another of the many HP methods, where the soap mixture is cooked in a pot placed directly on the stove.

DOS - Dreaded Orange Spots. Under certain conditions, yellow/orange spots appear on the surface of natural handmade soaps, and the soap develops a "stuffy" smell, which usually covers the original scent.

DPG - Dipropylene Glycol ...a mild lubricant generally used to dilute fragrant oils.

DW, DWCP - Discounted Water Cold Process - an "advanced" soapmaking method, suitable for those who are already familiar with Cold Process soap making.

EO, EOs - Essential Oil(s). Conventionally, essential oils are natural essences.

FO, FOs - Fragrance Oil(s). Conventionally, fragrance (or fragrant) oils are synthetic essences.

GM (soap) - Goat's Milk soap.

HP - Hot Process, Hot Processed. Soapmaking method where the soap is made as in CP, then cooked using one of the many HP methods.

IPM - Isopropyl myristate, another solvent, like DPG, with slightly different properties.

KOH - The chemical name of potassium hydroxide, which is the alkali used to make liquid soap.

M&P - Melt & Pour, also called glycerin blocks or glycerine base. This is a special commercial base (which is not natural) that can be remoulded with the addition of fragrance and colour.

MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet - An information sheet written and provided by the manufacturer of a material, containing information on the properties of the material, with particular attention to possible health hazards.

This is because Material Safety Data Sheets are designed to be used as part of the workplace safety procedures, to protect workers who handle chemical or cosmetic materials from undesired side effects.

MWHP - Micro Wave Hot Soap. Soapmaking method where the soap mixture is cooked in a microwave oven.

NaOH - Actually, this is the chemical name of sodium hydroxide, aka caustic soda, aka lye.

OHP - Oven Hot Process

Rebatch, rebatching - A soapmaking method where a natural soap base is melted and remoulded after adding extra nutrients, essential or fragrance oils, colours etc. Handmade rebatching is also (improperly) called "remilling".

Remilling, remilled soap - An industrial soapmaking method where the soap base is ground, remilled and extruded (that is, "moulded") using a mechanical process. Industrial remilling usually implies the addition of synthetic materials, such as, for instance, lubricants to allow the soap mass to "flow" through the machinery.

SLSa - sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (bubbling surfactant)

NaOH - sodium hydroxide ("lye" when mixed w/ water), AKA caustic soda.

KOH - potassium hydroxide (cream/liquid soaps)

Ingredient Acronyms

CM, CMP: Coconut milk, coconut milk powder.

CCO: Coconut Oil

OO: Olive oil

PKO: Palm Kernal Oil

VCO: Virgin coconut oil

FCO: fractionated coconut oil

EVOO: extra virgin olive oil

RBO: Rice Bran Oil

SAO: Sweet almond oil

AKO: apricot kernel oil

PKO: palm kernel

[Meridith]

This is info I posted on the old CT board that I thought was very useful.I have to post this a few times b/c its too big. Wink

Alfalfa Oil : Medicago sativa

Reported to reduce the erythema caused by sunburn. Rich in carotenes and lutein.

Almond Butter : Hydrogenated Almond Oil

The natural oil contains essential fatty acids, but also contains unsaponifiables as natural waxes or paraffins. This butter makes an ideal massage or carrier oil and adds moisturizing properties to soaps, creams and lotions. In cosmetic preparations, the feel and behavior of Almond Butter is somewhat similar to that of shea butter.

Amaranth Oil : amaranthus candatus

Supports healthy skin growth by high amounts of polyunsaturated fatty acids, tocopherols, and beta carotene. Improves resistance of skin, retards effects of skin ageing, and has fast resorption.

Apricot Kernel Oil : Prunus armeniaca

A skin conditioning agent that is emollient, non-greasy and ideal for dry, tired and mature skins.

Argane Oil : Argania spinosa

Rich in natural sterols, this oil from Morocco is used by the local women to keep their skin soft, smooth and protected.

Artemisia Oil : Artemisia sphaerocephala

This oil comes from a family that includes Mugwort, Chinese Wormwood, Davana and Absinthe. The Artemisia family shares the common feature of being beneficial to the skin, especially to keep it clear of infection and improve wound healing.

Avocado Butter : Persea gratissima

Reported to contain a complex blend of vitamins A and E and other active materials which increases skin elasticity and encourages healthy skin.

Avocado Oil : Persea gratissima

A light, fast penetrating oil that was reported to be absorbed faster by the skin than corn, soybean, almond and olive oils.

Babassu Oil : Orbignya oleifera

Originating from the Brazilian rainforest, this oil is reported to be non-comedogenic. It leaves the skin with a soft, lustrous smoothness.

Baobab Oil : Adansonia digitata

An African tree steeped in mystery, legend and religious significance. The fruit provides an exquisite oil that is a rich and substantive moisturiser.

Beeswax : Beeswax

Beeswax makes for a harder bar of soap and is also used in creams, lotions, lip balms and candle making. Beeswax contains a high percentage of unsaponifiables and is often used in formulations containing honey to harden what would otherwise be a too soft soap. Limit the use of beeswax in cold process soapmaking to about an ounce per pound of oils.

Blackcurrant Seed Oil : Ribes nigrum

A rich source of GLA and a superb moisturiser which can be used in place of evening primrose or borage seed oils.

Borage (Starflower) Oil : Borago officinalis

Another rich plant source of GLA. Excellent moisturiser in skin care.

Brazil Nut Oil : Bertholletia excelsa

An oil rich in proteins and vitamins E and A, this precious gift from the South American rainforest comes from the fruit (nut) of a tree that can grow for a thousand years. Brazil nuts, or para nuts, produce an oil that is a rich emollient and a moisturiser not too dissimilar to sesame oil.

Calendula Oil: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet almond) Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract This oil is made by infusing Calendula Petals in a good carrier oil like Olive or Sweet Almond. It is a light yellow colored oil. It is historically known for healing wounds, dry and damaged skin and for Eczema and soothing skin eruptions. Is very mild and a great addition for baby soaps, lotions and creams. Good for all skin types. Note that Calendula may be infused in different oils in which case the "Sweet Almond" will be replaced with the oil used.

Candelilla Wax : Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax

It takes approximately 25% less candelilla than beeswax to achieve effective use in products like lotion bars and lip balms. Therefore, it can also be considered an economical "vegetable" alternative to beeswax. Candelilla was has excellent glide with the color of natural beeswax, a light golden yellow.

Camellia Oil : Camellia sinensis

A traditional oil used in the Far East and particularly in Japan for the protection and moisturisation of the skin and hair.

[Meridith]

Canola Oil : Canola Oil

Canola is usual the oils that is used in place of Olive Oil in soap formulas. Like Olive Oil based soaps it take a bit of time to trace. It does not give the same good values to the soap as Olive Oil does, but is not as expensive.

Use can be up to 50% of the oils in a soap formula.

Carrot Oil : Daucus carota sativa

A source of beta-carotene and provitamin A. Natural colour and skin nutrient. Often used in suncare products.

Cashew Nut Oil : Anacardium occidentale

An oil rich in proteins, this lubricious material can be used wherever a skin nourishing effect is needed.

Castor Oil : Ricinus communis

A very glossy oil on the skin. Used in lipsticks, lip balms and lip salves. Also used in transparent soaps and hair grooming products.

Chaulmoogra Oil : Taraktogenos kurzii

An oil native to Burma and China, it is an Indian remedy for problem skins, particularly for dry,

desquamative skin conditions and sores.

Cherry Pit Oil : Prunus avium

An oil with an interesting profile of fatty acids. It moisturises and protects the skin to leave it soft and smooth.

Chia Oil : Salvia hispanica

A rich luxuriant oil with a wonderful ancient Aztec storyline. It contains an abundance of linolenic acid which helps to explain its substantive feel on the skin.

Cocoa Butter : Theobroma cacao

A traditional African remedy for dry skin, suitable for the most delicate of skin types.

Coconut Oil : Cocos nucifera

A traditional and trusted moisturising and protective oil from the tropics. One of the most respected oils found in the British Pharmacopoeia.

Coffee Oil : Coffea arabica

An unusual and exciting proposition for an emollient. This oil has connotations of being reviving and stimulating.

Emu Oil : Emu Oil

Emu Oil is a deep penetrating oil that is known to draw into the skin anything that is used along with it. It is best to use this only with Essential Oils and herbs as it will help these work much better. The pure oil is said to help sore muscles, aching joints, pain and inflammation. So when combined with certain Essential Oils, can be a good pain reliever. Is not clogging to the skin and is very nourishing. Helps rejuvenate skin cells and reduces scarring. Some say it is good for helping Eczema. Good for all skin types.

Can used at 25% of a soap, but because of the expense that this oil can be for some, the use of about 1 oz. to 2 oz. per lb. of oils in a soap formula will impart the values of this oil. Can be added to lotion, cream, body butters, ointments, etc. at about 1/2 oz. to 1 oz. for each 16 oz. to 20 oz. of a formula.

Evening Primrose Oil : Oenothera biennis

A favourite source of GLA, this modern seed oil is a well known and much loved moisturiser and skin nutrient.

Flax Seed Oil : Linum Usitatissmum (Linseed) Seed Oil

Flax seed is rich in essential fatty acids which directly takes part in the regulation of skin permeability, presents worthwhile restructuring and moisturizing skin properties for cosmetics. It is high in vitamin E and stimulates cellular regeneration and it is

useful for preventing scarring and stretch marks.

Gold of Pleasure Oil : Camelina sativa

Probably introduced into this country by the Romans, this oil has an amazing lubricity which makes it ideal for those products where spreadability is required.

Grape Seed Oil : Vitis vinifera

A slightly green, low odour oil which is ideal as a carrier for essential oils in massage oils and other delicate colour/fragrance products.

[Meridith]

Hazelnut Oil : Corylus americana

A recent paper showed that hazelnut oil has phospholipids which give greater and longer-lasting moisturising potential to cosmetic emulsions.

Hemp Oil : Cannabis sativa

A virtually canabinoid-free oil that rivals linseed for its richness and high arachidonic acid content. A perfect choice for skin protection.

Hyptis Oil : Hyptis suaveolens

A high concentration of omega-6 lipids makes hyptis oil an ideal choice in products for dry, flaky skin.

Illipe Butter : Shorea stenoptera

An exotic material from the rainforests of Borneo. This rich butter is packed with natural fatty acids, triglycerides and phytosterols to protect and moisturize the skin by complementing its natural lipid layer. A wonderful alternative to cocoa butter which, chemically, it closely resembles.

Jojoba Oil : Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Jojoba Oil is really not an oil, but a liquid wax. This oil has been used for many years in skin care products because of the healing power that is has. It is said to be closely related to human sebum and this makes is very compatible with our skin. It is said to help is fighting Acne and Pimples and is wonderful for dry and damaged skin.

Kiwi Seed Oil : Actinidia chinensis

An oil rich in vitamin E, the kiwi, or chinese gooseberry, grown in New Zealand, is a significant source of skin nutrition and protection.

Kokum Butter Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

Kokum Butter exhibits excellent emollient properties and high oxidative stability. Like other butters, it melts at skin temperature and is ideal for lip sticks and balms.

Kpangnan: Pentadesma butyracea (African Butter Tree) Fruit

Kpangnan is a natural fatty extract from the kernels of the African butter tree from West Africa. Kpangnan, also known as "golden shea butter," is produced using traditional methods and has not been refined. It is a raw, natural product in its purest form. Kpangnan can be used like shea butter as a fatting agent in cosmetic products, topical ointments, creams and lotions. It has smooth texture as is applicable to facial, hand, and body care products. In general, Kpangnan can be used in most oil based products or in the oil phase of cosmetic and toiletry formations. Here are some suggested uses for Kpangnan: Lip Balms, Lipsticks, Hand and Body Lotions and Creams, Facial Moisturizers, Bath Oils, Soaps, Rubs and Ointments, and Body Butters.

Kukui Nut Oil : Aleurites moluccana

To the Hawaiians this tree is a symbol and a legend. The oil is a panacea for delicate, sensitive or dry skin and is pure and gentle enough to use on a baby's delicate skin.

Lard : Lard

Lard makes a wonderful hard white bar and was used as the main or only fat before vegetable oils were used in soapmaking. It makes a wonderful addition to the liquid vegetable oils that have a tendency to make a softer soap. Can be used as 100% of a soap formula.

Macadamia Nut Oil : Macadamia ternifolia

An oil from the 'King of Nuts', this Hawaiian emollient is reported to have properties akin to those of sebum.

Mango Seed Oil : Mangifera indica

This oil from India is a greatly respected emollient that is often used as a cocoa butter replacement.

Manketti Nut Oil : Ricinodendron rautanenii (proposed)

The Manketti Nut or Mongogo Nut is a source of a precious edible oil from Namibia that is rich in phytosterols and natural proteins. It is a highly prized emollient that will pamper the skin to leave it

lusciously protected.

Marula Oil : clerocarya birrea(proposed)

An oil from the fruit of a tree much revered by the indigenous people of Southern Africa, who extract the oil themselves for cracked, dry or damaged skin. It is a prized cosmetic oil for both skin and hair, being similar to olive oil in composition.

[Meridith]

Meadowfoam Seed Oil : Limnanthes alba

An oil that is stable, non-greasy and rapidly absorbed.

This oil is ideal for those products where a soft, smooth, silky feel is required whether it be on skin or hair.

Monoi : Cocos nucifera (and) Gardenia tahitensis

The tropical paradise of Tahiti captured in one gloriously fragranced oil which overpowers the senses with its rich floral bouquet. The pure delight of gardenia flowers infused in skin-loving coconut oil.

Neem Oil : Melia azadirachta

A very aromatic oil, neem (also known as margosa or nimba) is one of India's most respected treatments for problem skin.

Ngali Nut Oil : Canarium spp. (proposed)

A precious oil is extracted from this exotic tree (which also provides a valuable resin) for use as a local remedy for dry skin.

Olive Oil : Olea europaea

An oil that is mentioned in the Bible and was known to the ancient Greeks and Phoenicians, who introduced it into Spain. This oil is legendary for its safe, gentle care and treatment of the skin.

Orchid Oil : Vanilla planifolia

A light, delicate oil that is perfect for providing a light moisturisation to those products where the after-skin feel should be a whisper.

Oyster Nut Oil : Telphairia pedata

A novel oil that offers skin conditioning and protection against the loss of precious skin hydration.

Palm Kernel Oil or Flakes : Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil

The other lathering oil. Can be used up to 50% of a soap formula. But works great at 20% to 30% of a soap formula.

Palm Oil : Hydrogenated Palm Oil

This oil is used as a hard base oil instead of Lard or Tallow for making a totally Vegie soap. It also can be drying to some skin types. Use at 50% of the oils in a formula if you like or less.

Passionflower Oil : Passiflora edulis

A light, gentle oil with connotations of being soothing and relaxing. It leaves a natural soft feel to the skin without being over-occlusive.

Peach Kernel Oil : Prunus persica

A skin conditioning agent that is emollient, non-greasy and ideal for dry, tired and mature skins. Can be used as an equivalent to apricot kernel oil.

Peanut Oil : Arachis hypogaea

A traditional oil for use in sunscreen preparations and after-sun oils. It is substantive and protective to the harshest of external conditions.

Perilla Oil : Perilla ocymoides

Known by the Chinese name of Zi Su or in English as the beefsteak plant or Perilla, this material shows antiseptic activity and has been shown to be effective against Propionibacterium acnes (responsible for acne).

Pine Nut Oil : Pinus pinea

A mediterranean delicacy, the edible seeds are known as 'pignons' or 'pinocchi' and they yield a novel moisturising oil.

Pistachio Nut Oil : Pistacia vera

An oil that is substantive and protective to the harshest of external conditions. Compares favourably with peanut oil.

Poppy Seed Oil : Papaver orientale

Containing virtually no opiates, this must be the sister to hemp oil and could be used in any products where an interesting moisturiser is required with an emotive story line in the pack copy.

Pumpkin Seed Oil : Cucurbita pepo

The oil from pumpkin seeds has been used across the world as a treatment for sores, ulcers and other skin problems. Its high sterol and vitamin E content makes it ideal for this purpose.

[Meridith]

Rice Bran Oil : Oryza sativa

A moisturising oil, rich in gamma oryzanol.

Rose Hips Oil : Rosa canina

The rose of Mosqueta oil, which was once described as the 'Fountain of Youth'. This oil is remarkable for its benefits to damaged and distressed skin.

St. John's Wort Oil : Hypericum perforatum

An orange-red oil that takes its colour from the hypericin it contains. This oil is part of most herbalists' repertoire for damaged skin, bruises and other skin problems. Especially useful for sensitive skin products.

Safflower Oil : Carthamus tinctorius

Safflower oil is mentioned in ancient Egyptian texts and was used to heal old wounds. It has an exceptionally high linoleic acid content and is an excellent choice for the replenishment of moisture in

skin creams and lotions.

Seabuckthorn Oil : Hippophae rhamnoides

Obtained from the maceration and extraction of the fruit into olive or sunflower oil, this is an old and traditional remedy handed down by generations of battling Mongols for the treatment of bruised and

battered skin. Ideal for inclusion in "sports" ranges.

Sesame Oil : Sesamum indicum

Also known as gingilli oil, this oil has been known since earliest antiquity, from ancient Egypt to the Indian continent, as a soothing, gentle emollient. It is an extremely good substitute for olive oil and has excellent longevity in massage preparations.

Shea Butter : Butyrospermum parkii

This rich, buttery oil from central Africa is used for the protection and care of skin cracked and dehydrated by the elements. Beurre de karite is an elegant addition to products crafted for the smoothing and replenishment of dry skins.

Shikonin Seed Oil : Lithospermum erythrorhizone

Known by the Chinese name Zi Cao or in English as Gromwell, this material shows clinical anti-inflammatory activity and is used in traditional Chinese medicine for the treatment of burns, sores, eczema and scalds. It has also been shown to increase the growth of epithelial cells.

Shortening : Hydrogenated Soybean Oil

Vegetable shortening is made of hydrogenated soybean oil and is an inexpensive way to add hardness to soap, is mild and has a stable lather. Added with other vegetable oils, it makes a hard bar of soap, but can be brittle when cut into bars.

Sisymbrium Irio Oil : Sisymbrium irio

This seed oil was much loved by the Romans and is still used today by the beautiful women of Asia for improvement of the complexion. It can be used with great benefit in skin care preparations.

Soybean Oil : Glycine soja

This plant has been known and used by the Chinese for more than 4,000 years, though today most of the oil comes from the USA. This oil is a cost-effective base on which to prepare hair and body products where good honest moisturisation is required at a budget

price.

Sunflower Oil : Helianthus annuus

A simple yet cost-effective emollient oil, well tried and tested for generations in a wide variety of emulsions formulated for face and body products.

Sweet Almond Oil : Prunus amygdalus dulcis

Much loved for generations, listed in the British Pharmacopoeia and an excellent choice for even the most simple of moisturisers or massage oils. Almond oil should be in every formulator's palette.

[Meridith]

Tallow (Beef) : Tallow

Like Lard it was used as a main or only base in soapmaking before vegetable oil was introduced into soapmaking. Makes a wonderful hard white bar and is a good base to add to liquid vegetable oils. 100% of the soap formula or whatever percentage you wish.

Walnut Oil : Juglans regia

Probably a native of Persia, this nut provides an emollient oil which has been used for its efficacy on dry and damaged skin. In mythology, while man ate acorns the Gods ate walnuts.

Watermelon Seed Oil : Citrullus vulgaris

Known since the time of the ancient Egyptians, this seed oil has been used for the care of the skin, to maintain its beauty and aid in its repair.

Wheatgerm Oil : Triticum vulgare

Contains one of the highest levels of natural vitamin E and is a valuable additive to any skin care product where care and protection of the skin is important.

Wild Borage Oil : Trichodesma zeylanicum

This oil is not totally unrelated to our borage (Borago officinalis) since it is from the same family. It originates from Tanzania, where it is used for its emollient and soothing properties. It may also be found in Pakistan, where it is used for similar purposes.

[netje]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

I have been very confused by a lot of posts lately (due to abbreviations) and now I can come out of the clouds.