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4045 burn issues...still

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These are the mottles that I was referring to in my last post. The ones that are making me crazy! (http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52549)

They all bulge, require hugging, and all have high flames at the initial lighting. Even if they have been trimmed to nubs prior. I have to put them out within the first 5-10 min and trim regardless. Then they burn fine for 4-5 hours. I'm not ok with bulging or hugging, and I certainly do not want to have to trim, light, put out, trim, and light again. 3% stearic, 1 oz. FO all PP. Is there anything that I can add or do to them that will decrease the sagging? And why on earth are non of the wicks working? I tried LX's with these too, but they did the same thing. I don't have any 27 ply and I think 24 ply is too small? And #2/0 is not even worth trying right?

I wouldn't choose any of these wicks for this combo. But if I had to I think I would go with the #2. The FO is Indo Teak from GL, and I think that a #2 is outrageous since I wick down for it in my jars. I'm feeling lost, any help is greatly appreciated please!!!

ETA & attach more photos: Is there anyway to make mottles burn the way my other candles do, or is that a vybar thing?







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I can't help you because I am just staring on pillars. I just wanted to say I LOVE that green striped one. How did you get the stripes in it like that?

Thanks! I found only lime green and black come out pretty. All the other colors sucked, so I quit playing with em. I followed these instructions more or less: http://www.candletech.com/ideas/rainbowpillar.htm

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You might want to try something like a cd 18 and see if you like it better.

I still need to shorten them up to keep flame height down but my wax doesn't tend to bulge as much. Also I'm using 1343 but it's very similar to 4045. 1343 definitley has a tendency to bulge like your 4045 is doing.

One other thing that I can think of that you might want to try is to pre-wax (Prime) your 30 ply.

Some ideas on that can be found here:http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1997

Here is a rustic candle that I power burned with a CD 20. You can see where some soot collected on the inside edge, but I never had to touch it regarding bulging or hugging. It was scented with amaretto nog. (fwiw) I've often gotten basically the same results with a CD 18, sometimes a little bulging but not a whole lot.


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I see. Well maybe a CD wick will give some better results...:smiley2: I've often wondered what would happen if I cut some IGI 1260 into the 1343, in regards to reducing bulging since the 1260 has a higher melt point. It might be worth a try. I'd really like to using a smaller wick than the CD18 and 20's just to reduce flame height if nothing else, but every time I tried a 16 or lower I got bulging pretty much the same as in your pics above. I tried many of the LX series (Like 28 all the way down to 20) also, and just never did get the results I wanted.

As far as I know the 1260 is a fully refined straight wax, but it may have some hardeners in it that could possibly effect the mottle. I don't know.

I've got wax in my pots right now but I may just experiment with the idea later this week. It would be nice if the 1260 would reduce the bulging and not hurt the mottle.. :) and allow me to wick smaller.

While I'm wishing I might as well wish for the whole package...lol.

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I like the way your rustic is burning. That's pretty much what I would like to achieve. I was wondering too, if maybe mixing it with another wax, but I don't think I understand the whole picture with that. All I have to try with is some leftover 1343 and since that wax bulges, I don't know what the benefit would be?

ETA: Just remembered I have a little 1260 laying around here too, hmmm....

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Probably none. I bought the 1260 (just one slab to play around with hurricanes) from Aztec over in Knoxville. It was around $14 and with shipping it cost me 20 dollars and some change. The 1260 definitley cost me more pp even if I ordered a case of it than the 1343 does.

Here's the link and description of it:


I gather that it has no additives such as vybar or UA or oils, but I don't know what if anything was used to give it the higher melt temp. It must be something because it seems to be harder than 1343.

eta: It just might be that whatever is in it to make it a higher melt point temp may also adversely affect mottling. Like maybe micro 180 or something other along those lines.

IGI's website and 1260: it's at the bottom of the list and the pdf file doesn't really say anything about what makes it a higher melt point, but that doesn't neccessarily mean that much to me..lol..because I'm not real sure about what I'm reading there anyway..:grin2:


However, here's a pretty cool article from IGI about mottling that you might find to be educational (you may be familiar with all this stuff already) or at least a fun read. Just click on mottling technical paper http://www.igiwax.com/resource/Papers_Articles

Anyway, I'll be watching your thread for other's ideas and to see what you come up with. If I experiment with the 1260 and I probably will unless you beat me to it (and find out it's a no go)...I'll let you know what if anything I find out.

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I got mine from Peaks, but it says the MP is 163


Hopefully someone that knows will chime in later. I'm not really sure what characteristics to look for to create a custom blend.

Thanks for the technical paper link. I never understood what the IGI site says either lol!

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I saw Top on here earlier, I'm hoping he chimes in too. Maybe he doesn't like me :cry2:

He probably doesn't know ya well enough to dislike ya...that didn't sound right did it..LOL..:grin2: , also considering the hour (5:10am est), he might not have felt like typing anymore... Or may not have had time before going to work..many possibilities.

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