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Cargill naturewax what temps are good?


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Hi! we are just starting out and we bought cargill nature wax and have been testing different temps to pour at. It seems that what ever temps we pour at we are getting air bubbles around the wick also some of them get big holes that crack and cave in, used a heat gun to smooth out tops so far they seem to burn well but there is no hot throw although the candle actually smells pretty strong when not lit. We stirred thoroughly and added 1 oz per pound, what is up with this? We have heated to 175 and poured at 105, 125, and 140. When we poured at 105 and 125 we got some frosting and holes on top, when we poured at 140 no frosting but still air bubbles and holes. Should we increase the temp even higher? I very much appreciate any suggestions and help. :confused: :confused: :confused: jessi

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Ditto...I use C-3 heat to 170-175, pour between 130-140 (I like it closer to 130) but I do Heat my jars. Depending on the weather I get some of that dang circular cracking on the surface that C-3 loves to do. I'm considering trying a bit of the Universal additive to see if it resolves that problem. No more "bubbles" since I started heating jars and pouring SLOW. HTH:shocked2:

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KrazyKandle,

You get those circular cracks too? They drive me nuts and I don't know how to eliminate them with the exception of doing re-pours and that definitely blows the single pour theory. I've tried everything imagineable and I still get them. Please pm me "if" you find a solution? I wouldn't want to miss it if you posted it. I would be indebited to you for life:yay: :yay: :yay: Thanks a bunch

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I use C 3 and have since they came out with it. I pour at 150 if and when I get cracks or bubbles around the wick I just zap with my heat gun. As far as scent throw this wax really needs a lot longer cure time than any other soy wax I've used. Some scents can take 2 - 3 weeks curing b/f I get the scent throw I'm looking for. Also found CD wicks seems to work the best for me with this wax. HTH

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Hi Cindy,

I pour at between 145* and 148* and my tops are smooth as silk but I end up with "the crack"...... I tried pouring cooler and then warmer and nothing I do will eliminate the problem for me so I'll have to live with it. I've never had one customer complain or even ask why it's in there so maybe I shouldn't let it bother me the way it does but IT DOES!!:angry2: :angry2:

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Are you talking about the circular shrinkage crack? We have that sometimes, but the cooler we pour, the less we see that sudden sinkhole shrinkage. A heat gun does diminish it, but if the top is otherwise perfect except for that slight, circular crack, I think I'd leave the top alone. After it has cured and hardened a few days, you can frequently rub it out with your finger.

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Toni, I heat the wax to 170°-180°, then allow it to cool down to 145°-150°. I transfer it to the pour pot and add fragrance and dye. I keep a thermometer in the pour pot because I am stirring gently, but constantly, to get the temp down evenly and still mix the dye and FO well. I try to pour between 130° and 120°, the lower, the better. My partner hasn't the patience to wait for the wax to cool down while stirring, so I usually have to repair tops on hers! The wax will be cloudy, but smooth and silky looking, not slushy like a Frosty. It helps to give the pouring pot a few thumps to consolidate and release air bubbles. I thump the containers a few times as they are setting up. If the wax is too liquid to move the container, I thump the table all around the container.

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Hi Toni, Another thing I've found with this wax is to be carefull how far I fill the jar. If I pour to far up the neck of the jar my sink holes and cracks seem to get worse. So try to stay just below the neck of your jar when pouring. I zap with heat gun and if I still have "the crack" (lol) I just make sure there is no hidden air pocket under "the crack". Other wise I'm with you if it's there it's there no one has complained about it so I don't worry to much if it's there. HTH

Hi Cindy,

I pour at between 145* and 148* and my tops are smooth as silk but I end up with "the crack"...... I tried pouring cooler and then warmer and nothing I do will eliminate the problem for me so I'll have to live with it. I've never had one customer complain or even ask why it's in there so maybe I shouldn't let it bother me the way it does but IT DOES!!:angry2: :angry2:

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Hey Stella and Cindy,

Thanks for the tips. I'll have to see if they help me out any?

Stella,

I've never tried to pour C3 at such a low temp. before? Hmmmm, that's interesting. Are your tops nice and smooth? And I was surprised to see you add the dye and FO so low too?

Cindy,

When I pour, I have always gone a little above the neck of the jar to give the customer that tad "extra" but yet with the 8oz tins that I use for my wickless, I pour just up to the line that's around the container and those darn things crack too. I've noticed some oils are worse than others too.

Candlemaking is a never ending test.. Thanks again gals:wink2: :wink2:

I think I'll try pouring at a much lower temp. and see what happens.

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Hey everyone thank you for all the input I am going to make a bunch tonite, I'll try warming the jars and pouring very slowly and thumping the table after I pour to release air bubbles im going to try several different temps and I will let everyone know what happens. again thanks

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Alright so we didn't have as much time as planned but we did pour at 150 and 155 there was still some air bubbles but not as bad just zapped the tops with the heat gun they are beautiful :rolleyes2 . I havent burned them yet so I do not know about the hot throw yet but no frost and so far no cracks:yay: . Once again thank you, I just wanted to let you all know you are a godsend!!! Thanx Jess

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