southern.scents Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Okay, i decided to try HP soap today. I used rooto lye. My ingredient included 16 oz lard, 8.5 oz olive oil, 10 oz soy wax, fragrance to 4.4 ounces of lye mixed in 5 ounces of milk and 5 ounces of water. It turned out a tan color and has this bad smell. what did i do wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenn A Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Hi,Does it smell like ammonia?If so,it is the milk.Most of the time it will go away as it cures.When I soap with milk(s),I do cp.I freeze my milk flat in a baggie.I get all my my oils melted and ready to go,add my frozen milk to the lye.As soon as the lye is dissolved I add it to the oils.I do not insuate my molds.I have gotten the best resuts with this method.This wasn't my idea,I **think** it was Cyndi from Muller's Farm.HTH, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van_yulay Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Hello, I did the same thing the first time I made milk soap. That brown to dark tan is burnt milk. The lye is too hot. The lye gets up to 300 degrees. If you add milk that is half frozen it comes out great. It is suppose to be a cream to light color for milk soap. If you burnt it real bad, it will not smell good when cured, but still will clean wonderfully. Try again, because you will succeed and when you do, the out come will be wonderful!! Happy Soaping!! Ö¿Ö Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angel91805 Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Wow...soy wax isn't even listed on SoapCalc! It is listed on MMS's lye calculator..but 4.4 oz of lye is going to give you a 7.5-ish superfat. What kind of milk was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Wow...soy wax isn't even listed on SoapCalc!Soy wax is listed on SoapCalc as hydrogenated soy oil.Sometimes you can get the sap value of a specific product from the manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southern.scents Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Thanks for all of your help. I will try again in a few days. How long should the soap cure? I've already cut mine since it is just a tester. The soap smells horrible and looks even worse but leaves the pleasant georgia peach fragrance behind when you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtasyPunq Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Umm, color me stupid but do you guys mean actual soy wax- like the kind used to make candles? I think you mean soy shortening -like the crisco type stuff but I just want to make sure? I though that was hydrogenated soy oil. If you do mean actual soy wax what kind of a bar of soap does it make? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Umm, color me stupid but do you guys mean actual soy wax- like the kind used to make candles? I think you mean soy shortening -like the crisco type stuff but I just want to make sure? I though that was hydrogenated soy oil. If you do mean actual soy wax what kind of a bar of soap does it make?They're all variations on the same thing. Straight "soy wax" is flaked vegetable shortening from companies like Golden Brands. They sell it mostly as a food product but some of it goes to candlemakers. The Crisco shortening from the store is a special recipe of hydrogenated soy and cottonseed with additives.While I don't have experience with it yet, I know you can use any of these things in a soap recipe. Thing is, the characteristics will vary prom product to product so I guess you just have to estimate the sap value and see what kind of soap it makes.Some companies like Nature's Gifts sell products that are still mostly shortening but are specially formulated for candlemaking purposes. They provide sap values for the different "waxes" on their website so I guess you can use those too. I don't think there would be any problem with trying CB-Pure Soy or CB-135 in a soap recipe.As for what kind of soap it makes I'll leave that to the experienced people. I understand it produces a harder bar compared to unhydrogenated oils, kind of like you shifted the qualities a little in the direction of stearic acid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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