SoapDiva Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 So, this is #3, the first two soaped wonderfully, textbook even.This one, did not:Castor 4.53Coconut 9.08PK 13.62Shea 9.08Grapeseed 9.08Lye 6.48Water 16.07I brought it to trace, took out a spoon of liquid to set aside for a swirl (the FO is Dutch Chocolate and Coconut, I know it will go dark, so I was going to do an unscented swirl).I discovered what "seizing" means. I stopped blending, otherwise risking SB destruction and squashed the soap into the mold. I spread the reserved stuff on top.The mix started to get hot right away and I think what is called "gelling". I was tempted to take the SB and blend right in the mold, reason being is when I was slopping the mix into the mold I noticed some creamy spots that were not going solid. I'm concerned that it did not get mixed properly.Will this set up right do you think? I have it all tucked away now, doing its thang.Thanks for your wisdom! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoapDiva Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 Ok, I peeked because its like an accident.....it looks like the FO is puddling on top??How do I know if this batch is a bust or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecandlespastore Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I have heard that coconut FO can seize, and I know the chocolate soap I made awhile ago had oils floating on the surface for a few days. I just left it molded and it reabsorbed. I dont know about this batch though. What were your temps starting out? Could have overheated.....I guess we will have to wait and see. Sounds like a candidate for a rebatch right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoapDiva Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 Hmmm, must be the coconut, my supplier told me that the Dutch Chocolate soaps wonderfully. I've only ever used the coconut in a lotion stick.The FO seems to have soaked back in, in the worst spots, there is a bit on the top on the side.I will keep it molded for a few days and see what happens.At least this is a learning experience. I may learn how to rebatch sooner than I wanted to!ETA: My temps were around the 100 mark when I soaped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinInOR Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I'd say it's the FO. The going immediately into gel sounds like a picky FO - I've had a few do that before. I tend to stop SBing before I add fragrance - I just stir as I add FO slowly. The lye looks fine at 6% discount, and you didn't "discount" water too much. MMS calculator says its max water is 17 oz - could be your supplier meant it soaped well at full water. It's amazing what one more ounce of water can do.Don't you just hate learning experiences.... sigh.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I see some rebatching in your future. If that should happen again, don't try to get it in the mold if it's really solid. Continue to cook it (HP, crockpot or oven, I've even done it on the stove top over very low heat). After a bit, it will start to loosen up and go through the normal HP process. You can even add sugar after the fact, at the rate of 1 TBS pp of oils. This helps to keep it more fluid. I've even added more water after the fact to compensate for the water discount I took and the soap turned out just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carriegsxr6 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 another thing new soap makers are forgetting to do is let their oils and lye water cool to room temp before mixing them together. Just out of curiosity, what temp were your oils and lye water before you mixed them together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CareBear Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 another thing new soap makers are forgetting to do is let their oils and lye water cool to room temp before mixing them together. Just out of curiosity, what temp were your oils and lye water before you mixed them together?Unfortunately it's not just new soap makers :embarasse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca_IA Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I'm by far a new soaper and I rarely allow my lye/water mixture or oils to cool all the way to room temp. It's been awhile since I took the temp of either before mixing together, but I bet it's never lower than 90-95 degrees (farenheit).I would never suggest you go below 90 degrees for a regular normal CP batch, unless you know what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoapDiva Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 Ok, so now I'm confused. I thought it was standard practice to work with the lye and oils at about 100 degrees. Give or take 10?If I can leave them at room temp then what is the point in going by temps at all?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carriegsxr6 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I always cool mine down to room temp and have no problems. Once I add the lye to the oils, the temp rises back up. If my oils and lye are too hot to begin with, then the batch over heats.Lots of people also premix their lye and water and store at room temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinInOR Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 ...If I can leave them at room temp then what is the point in going by temps at all??Many people don't take temperatures at all.Keeping everything around 100F just takes one set of problems out of the equation when you're first starting out (usually). Too hot and it can trace too fast, too cool and you can have problems with not mixing things as well as you can.Some people just melt their hard oils, dump in their liquid oils, then use their lye water right away when it's hot (that's called room temp cold process).Others just melt hard oils, wait until their lye doesn't feel really hot to the touch. (That's me, I probably soap in the 110-120F range)Eventually you find a way that works for you. I actually have the least problems if my lye is really cool, even if my oils are on the high side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CareBear Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I have run into problems with a fast trace on some recipes if my oils are Room Temp sometimes. I prefer the oils to be a little warm (100 is a good guess) and the lye sol'n RT. You will find what works for you (and your recipes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoapDiva Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Well, I'm not sure but I think the batch is a bust, its got a weird mottling color going on. Some yellows, browns and whites. Its a calico. LOL!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca_IA Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 In addition to what Robin says, soaping too cool can also give you a false trace. Whether you can get away with it or not IMO depends upon the hard oils/butters you've used and the percentage of them used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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