Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 I've started making soy candles as a hobby for the last 2 months, in 8oz travel tins. I've recently tried making the candles in normal drinking glasses. But something strange has happened to the candle near the end of its burn! The candle is obviously emitting soot, which has deposited itself on the glass. Meanwhile, the wax that was melted during burn has cooled to a yellow colour! Has this happened to anyone else??? When I made the candles in the travel tins I did notice a bit on soot on the container towards the end of its burn also. I thought soy is suppose to burn clean? Help me please.(I do have a pic of my poor candle but I don't know how to post it in the forum) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernGal Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Hi Soyager! It will help if you can share how much soy (what type), what % of f/o and type of wick. Alot of times these are your culprits. This will also help others better to guide you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 Hi SouthernGal! I'm using EcoSoya CB, 3% Coconut FO (designed for use in candles & soaps) and HTP wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roxi4112000 Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 are you trimming your wick after each burn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 Yes, I trim the wick after every single burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernGal Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 What size is your container and type of wick (need to know size). Sometimes the wick can be to big for the size of cantainer you are using. I've also have noticed (imo) that the candles I have burned with a zinc core get real sooty easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 The glass is 2.7" in dia and 3.3" tall. The wick I used is HTP105, which gives me a full melting pool. I've used HTP104 for the same size glass but it did not burn to the edge (I only gave that one 1 test burn so not sure if it would have gone sooty too).There's still 1 inch of wax left at the bottom so it's not because the tab is burning.Are HTP wicks zinc cored??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangerine Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Are HTP wicks zinc cored??? HTP wicks are coreless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernGal Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 The glass is 2.7" in dia and 3.3" tall. The wick I used is HTP105, which gives me a full melting pool. I've used HTP104 for the same size glass but it did not burn to the edge (I only gave that one 1 test burn so not sure if it would have gone sooty too).There's still 1 inch of wax left at the bottom so it's not because the tab is burning.Are HTP wicks zinc cored??? Htp105 are coreless, no zinc. You mentioned getting a full melting pool. How long does it take to reach a full melt pool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 I think it takes around 2 hours to get a full melting pool. Also I don't burn the candles for more than 3 hours at a time.Here's the pic of the candle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernGal Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Well, I was hoping you would say you were getting a full melt pool in 30 min. and your mystery would be solved. Your answer would be the " The Wick Did It". It still maybe the wick. You might want to try wicking down since it seems the glass jar gets narrower towards the end. Not much narrower, but it might be enough to cause the problem. I read on a wick chart of another site, that HTP105 are recommended for 3 1/2 in diameters and 16 oz. jars and that HTP104 are recommened for 2 1/2 in to 3 in diameters. If that doesn't work, I would try another f/o and see if you are getting the same results. HTH, let us know what you find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 Thanks SouthernGal, I guess the challenge with glass is that most tumbler style glasses do get narrower towards the bottom. I'll test burn the one I've wicked with HTP104 and see if it makes a difference.Any idea why the wax turned yellow?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangerine Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 SouthernGal,If I am not mistaken, those wick size recommendations are for paraffin wax. In general, you have to wick up for soy wax because it's more viscous. Soyager,Yes, I would try burning the one with an HTP 104. Are you getting a good enough throw with 3% FO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernGal Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Just by my experience (which is not long) in testing different f/o's, I would guess it's the f/o. Some f/o will turn your wax yellow. I have a mulberry f/o that is really strong and will turn the wax yellow. I have a dogwood f/o that doesn't change it at all and stays a pretty white. I don't know if that's really what you mean by turning yellow. This is just a guess, I'm wondering if maybe it's turning yellow after cooling(where the melt pool was) because the wick is too big and getting the glass too hot and in return scourching the wax.:undecided I don't know, that's just a guess. Maybe someone with more experience can answer that.You might want to give your HTP104 wick 2 1/2 to 3 hours to reach it's melt pool. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soyager Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 Scent throw is also an area I'm working on. I started using 3% as the FO's are so potent, and 3% gave a nice cold throw (I didn't want the scent to be "punch your eyes out" strength when you put your nose to it).I thought the 3% gave me as good hot throw as the paraffin candles I used to buy (mid price), being that I can smell a whiff of it every now and then when I'm within 4 meters of the burning candle. However, having smelt the Diptyque candles recently at a friend's place, I'm working on improving the scent throw to be able to fill an entire room. I've just increased the FO to 6%, and in my opinion, has not really improved the hot throw. I also preferred the cold throw of the 3% FO candle. So I'm not sure what other variables to change now. It's easy to make a NICE soy candle, but freakin hard to make a GREAT one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernGal Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 SouthernGal,If I am not mistaken, those wick size recommendations are for paraffin wax. In general, you have to wick up for soy wax because it's more viscous. Your right about that, I found that when I tested eco-soya cb and certain types of wicks I could rely on the chart to be pretty close. But when I have used pure soy and certain wicks, I definitley had to up the size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootie04 Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Also when you test burn those tapered jars there may be a little hang up till the candle is halfway gone then it tends to catch up. Make sure to test burn all the way down with the 104.Patricia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meridith Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 It could be your container since it does taper down. The smaller the opening of a container, the less oxygen the wick can get which can cause soot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Also when you test burn those tapered jars there may be a little hang up till the candle is halfway gone then it tends to catch up. Make sure to test burn all the way down with the 104.PatriciaI have some glasses shaped just like that. I have not used 100% soy in them, just the 70/30 parasoy. So not sure if my experience will help or not. If I wick so that I get a FMP at the top of the container, then I get the same sooting problem. I get a clean burn if I wick down...don't get a FMP until the candle is burned down about 1/3 then the wick is just the right size for the decreased diameter and the hangup catches up and I get a perfect burn in the remaining 2/3 of the candle.Using a wick that fits the top of the container, it is just too big for the bottom - container gets very hot, wick smokes and dances all over the place with tons of soot. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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