Janis Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 I didn't know where to put this post, since beeswax is techniquely not "vegetable" wax. Anyway, I'd like to make some beeswax pillars just for me and maybe for gifts. I can't find much information on beeswax candles, other than a post that suggested using cotton square braided wicks. I was just wondering things like: Can I expect to wick up with beeswax? How is a beeswax pillar suppose to burn, for example, how far out should the melt pool go? Can you hug it, or is it more like soy, where it just burns down the center? Sorry, I hate posts like this where there are a million silly questions, but if any of you have experience with beeswax, I would love to hear about it. I'd just like to know what to expect when I start working with it. Thanks.BTW, I did just find a good source for beeswax for West Coast folks. Here it is: http://hiveharvest.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janette Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Hi Janis,I found that square braid worked well in beeswax. Burnt like a regular pillar, completely comsumed, not down the middle. It is huggable, but I never needed to, long burn times it will burn almost to the edge. 3" pillar #1 BL SQ. I did find rubber and two peice molds much easier. Beeswax doesn't shrink much and can be tough to get out of metal. Found I needed to heat the mould to release. I suspect that lots of beeswax pillars are cut with a bit of parrafin to help mould release. Hope this helps.Janette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janis Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 Thanks so much Janette. Yeah, and my next question was whether it releases from the mold, lol. Did you ever try putting it in the freezer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cetacea Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Prepare to wick up drastically from the suggested on wicking charts. The simple rule is 2X what a chart says since it is normally tested for paraffin. I don't have any problems getting beeswax out of metal molds, they just pop right out. I have a huge problem getting beeswax out of a plastic mold though...go figure. My molds are well seasoned so that might be the reason too. Pillars should auto-hug with beeswax. If you have to hug it, wick it up and test to see if it will auto-hug. Alot of your testing for the right wick depends on the filtration and type of honey in the beeswax. For example, clover honey bees tend to produce a stickier wax than bees feeding off cotton, corn or wheat flowers. Beeswax also changes with the seasons as the food supply dwindles towards fall. So winter beeswax might be a little more brittle than summer and thus might need a different wick. The best way to be sure is to test every batch you get from your supplier. Also ask your supplier if the wax is from the same batch. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janis Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 Wow, thanks for the info, Cetacea. I'm relieved to hear I don't have to buy plastic molds. Interesting about the different kinds of bees, etc. I would like to find a local supplier, but can't seem to so far. Still looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cetacea Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I would like to find a local supplier, but can't seem to so far. Still looking.Contact your state, they should know where the beekeepers are, then contact the beekeepers directly. Chances are they toss out the wax, if that is the case you can get it quite cheap. If they don't make sure to ask how filtered the wax is....do they filter it through mesh, if so what size and how many times....that sort of thing.HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janis Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 Thanks, sweetie. I suppose I can filter it myself, right? Have you done that? Okay, I can see that this could be a new addiction, lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janette Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 I found that it was well worth it to buy beeswax that was fully filtered. It must be run through very fine mesh or it has all sorts of bee bits in it. While burning the bits will stick to the wick and inhibit burning.Makes sense about what they eat affecting the wax. The beeswax I used to use was very sticky, probably the trouble with mould release.Have fun with your new adventure.Janette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tess Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Janice I use cheesecloth and filter it through like that. Works great. Even the smallest particles cannot get through. Hey Cetacea, while we are on the subject, would there be a difference in BW depending on what beekeeper I get it from? My beekeeper sent me some wax from another bee guy and I did not know if thise would perform the same as his wax. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cetacea Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Hey Cetacea, while we are on the subject, would there be a difference in BW depending on what beekeeper I get it from? My beekeeper sent me some wax from another bee guy and I did not know if thise would perform the same as his wax. ThanksI'd run a test just to be sure. It might be that its from the same area and it might not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tess Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 I'd run a test just to be sure. It might be that its from the same area and it might not.Thanks! Man that sucks! Last 50# I tested for new wicks, this 50# testing for "different wax", Next 50# will be his wax again lol. Darn BW!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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