CraftyChris Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 I poured this wax last night in testers, and it sunk! More than my reg 2 pour wax!!! UG! I used 1oz pp of fragrance, poured at 145' Thinking they cooled too fast. No wet spots though!Any other one pour waxes that are worth testing?I think I have the J50 here to test, and also a few waxes from candlwic to try out.Any remarks on the J series waxes? Cool slower?I poured a 12oz jelly jar, a 16oz apoth, a 5oz apoth (which has a crack and mega sink whole) and a 7oz jarI heard that container should be wider than it is tall for a one pour wax to really work well. True? If so, it won't work for me I guess..:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 The container geometry makes a huge difference. In the narrow ones the sides cool off and suck wax from the center so you get a sink hole. I've kinda casually noticed that J50 and Harmony do a little better because they slide down the glass a bit while cooling instead of sticking right away. Might help if it's smooth glass and straight up and down.Here's some info on containers versus one-pour. http://www.igiwax.com/downloads/pis/General%20Candle%20Info.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraftyChris Posted March 25, 2006 Author Share Posted March 25, 2006 That's great info, thanks! I'm thinking that these containers that I use (I can't switch due to wholesale accounts) just won't work with a one pour. The 12 oz is 2.5"diam but 4" highI only pour in case lots, so maybe I'll try keeping the jars in the case and closing the lid after I pour... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KK2 Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 You may want to wait before you say "no wet spots." Everytime I think that I finally poured a wet spot free batch, the spots turn up in a day or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraftyChris Posted March 25, 2006 Author Share Posted March 25, 2006 I just read your post and ran upstairs to look at them, and guess what...WET SPOTS!! on the bigger jars anyways.I think I'll stick to my reg wax, even if I have to do re-pours.I really wich the one pour votive wax was better It would save me the real time! We pour 560 votives 3x a week, and the repours take 5 hours of the next day to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 That's great info, thanks! I'm thinking that these containers that I use (I can't switch due to wholesale accounts) just won't work with a one pour. The 12 oz is 2.5"diam but 4" highI only pour in case lots, so maybe I'll try keeping the jars in the case and closing the lid after I pour...That would be a great idea. Cooling slowly and evenly helps with all the waxes. Get them grouped together in the case, close it up tight, and try to resist temptation for 24 hours. Opinions will differ, but I think it might be better to pour on the hotter side when doing that and trap more heat in the box.Realistically I think you'll need 2 pours for that container geometry, but it's still helpful to get the best possible results on the the first pour. Again, for the narrow containers it's my impression you might get some advantage out of testing J50 or Harmony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clonefan80 Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 I use this wax and gotta tell ya i pour at around 170. I don't get sink holes in the larger containers (as previously stated) just my smaller 5oz jar. Instead of repouring them or using a heat gun, i put them on a cookie tray in the oven at 350 for 10 minutes, works great. Wet spots, it will take you some time but you'll get past them..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenniejr Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 The sink holes are also caused by air bubbles trapped inside. I have been using J223 for years now..... and wet spots are the nature of the beast! You just have to learn to embrace them and love them for they will always be there. I do know too, that if the air temp. in your "Pouring" room is too cool, J223 will shrink and cause a dip in your tops. Try to keep the temp. in your room warm enough and keep your heat gun handy. edited because My mind was wandering and I got carried away with my explanation. Kinda crossed pillar info w/ jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 The sink holes are also caused by air bubbles trapped inside. Are you tapping the glass really well after pouring? If not, you are always going to have sink holes.I have to disagree with this part. I never, ever tap glass containers and have never seen a suggestion to do so. Let's not add unnecessarily to the list of candlemaking procedures.I don't see why there would be a trapped air bubble unless the wax and/or container was too cool. Also pouring wax into a very hot container could cause little bubbles from the fragrance oil vaporizing. Otherwise I pour wax and it fills the container, no bubbles, no tapping, job done.And if there was a bubble I don't see what that would have to do with a sink hole anyway. Sink holes are caused by shrinking wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenniejr Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 I have to disagree with this part. I never, ever tap glass containers and have never seen a suggestion to do so. Let's not add unnecessarily to the list of candlemaking procedures.Fixed that problem. However ...... everyone does things a little different and there is NO set perfect candle making procedure that has been carved in stone. Just because YOU choose to do things YOUR way, it does NOT make it the only way.I don't see why there would be a trapped air bubble unless the wax and/or container was too cool. Also pouring wax into a very hot container could cause little bubbles from the fragrance oil vaporizing. Otherwise I pour wax and it fills the container, no bubbles, no tapping, job done.Pouring too fast can also cause air bubbles.And if there was a bubble I don't see what that would have to do with a sink hole anyway. Sink holes are caused by shrinking wax.Lets see ..... the candle is cooling ...... an air pocket (bubble) rises to the surface, wax sinks down to fill the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Fixed that problem. However ...... everyone does things a little different and there is NO set perfect candle making procedure that has been carved in stone. Just because YOU choose to do things YOUR way, it does NOT make it the only way.I understand very well that everyone has their way of doing things. I often say that myself. But I was adressing your statement that sink holes are caused by bubbles and if you don't bang on your containers you will always have sink holes. People read here and take the advice and I think that is just flat out wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenniejr Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 I understand very well that everyone has their way of doing things. I often say that myself. But I was adressing your statement that sink holes are caused by bubbles and if you don't bang on your containers you will always have sink holes. People read here and take the advice and I think that is just flat out wrong.Well, good thing I went back ..... reread .... and realized what I had done ...... and changed it! Oh, and don't forget, I admitted my mistake as well. God forbid anyone would have run right out and tapped (NOT BANG - BIG DIFFERENCE) on a jar causing the air bubbles to come to the surface! Just think of the mental anguish that could have caused!! By far am I the most knowledgable candle maker on this board, but I think you need to step off and realize that you aren't either! I had no problem with you disagreeing with what I said ........ but this little comment Let's not add unnecessarily to the list of candlemaking procedures. was going too far. Now, I have admitted my mistake for all to read ......... please let it go at that. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharyl55 Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Getting back on the subject, Chris I pour J223 at 165 into containers that are taller than they are wide and have not had a problem with sinking. Never done a re-pour. I do add 1 tsp of UA pp. Don't know if that makes a diff. Just seemed like a good thing to do. There was a long post on the old board where Alan suggested using heat lamps to slow the cooling process where the container was taller than wide. Pouring in your cases would probably do the trick if you increased your pouring temp. Understand that I do a very small volume of containers compared to the rest of you. Just reporting my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraftyChris Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 Thanks Sharyl, and everyone else, I will pour a few more jars today, and box them to cool real slow.I'll let you know the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.