frankandcrow Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Hi everyone, hope it's okay to post it here, it's not about the thing it represents (I like selling unconventional candles), however, I've been struggling badly to get my candles to burn properly. So I could really use some expertise here. I've done plenty of research, but when it comes down to ratios and candlemaking you get vastly different answers. As you can see in the picture , the candle just burns too hard and throws out all the wax (it gets worse and worse) and gives it quite the unsightly sight... ;) My current mix is as followed: Total 160g Of which beeswax 157g 8% coconut oil 13g 7% essential oil 11ml Dye (in pellet form) 0,76g And a number 4 beeswax wick (this doesn't mean much to anyone, seeing as the numbers/names differ hugely across the world) I've also tried a number 2 (the wicks jump by 2, so you have 0-2-4-6 etc.... the company says a wick size 10 is specifically for outside candles), but all it does is provide a tiny flame and the same result. The top of the candle 'splits' open and then starts spilling. I've tried blowing out the candle, waiting for several hours, re-trimming the wick and trying again. To no avail. I'm at a loss... :( (As I'm writing this I'm melting a different wax mixture, out of desperation, instead of 8% coconut oil I'm trying 21%, but my candles are already quite soft, so I'm very critical :D ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Skip the coconut oil. Beeswax tapers and pillars don’t need it. It inhibits the ability of the beeswax to properly melt and congeal as it burns. the wick (as you know) depends on the size AND characteristics of your particular batch of beeswax. Is it refined white you’re using or yellow? Both burn slightly differently and can vary between several wick sizes depending on the methods used to clean and refine the wax. bleached square (BLSQ) is pretty standard for beeswax. It’s all I use for all beeswax candles.. for a shaped pillar of what appears to be 2” in diameter I would start at a BLSQ #1 (bleach square #1). It will create enough of a shallow melt pool to prevent drip. if the flame gets too large (like in your pic) I would wick down to a #1/0. If it leaves a tunnel with more than 1/8” wall I would wick up to a #2. Not sure where you are located but in the US we have access to many stepped sizes from #6/0 (which I use for mini tapers up to 1/2” in diameter) through #10 for gigantic outdoor candles. https://www.atkinsandpearce.com/product/bleached-square-wick/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankandcrow Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 First of all, thanks so much for your extensive reply! I'm located in Belgium and for practical reasons I'm trying to avoid ordering from abroad, but it's getting hard. Seeing as I'm not getting much guidance from the shops I'm ordering from here 😕 Really? Skip the coconut oil? I've been told I should/need to add it because beeswax is too hard and doesn't "stick" to the essentials oil particles? Have I been bulsh*tted? I am currently using beeswax given to me by a bee keeper who made it himself. It's very dark though, don't think it's been perfectly filtered or maybe it's been burnt. Not sure if that can have a big impact too on the way my candles burn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 3 hours ago, frankandcrow said: First of all, thanks so much for your extensive reply! I'm located in Belgium and for practical reasons I'm trying to avoid ordering from abroad, but it's getting hard. Seeing as I'm not getting much guidance from the shops I'm ordering from here 😕 square braid is pretty common. I bet places in the UK carry many sizes. Calling all of my UK candleistas can you help? Really? Skip the coconut oil? I've been told I should/need to add it because beeswax is too hard and doesn't "stick" to the essentials oil particles? Have I been bulsh*tted? in a word, yes. For free standing candles nothing is needed. Pure beeswax on its own with vegetable oils create stable salves at as little as 5%. More beeswa. Just makes thicker stable salves. It is amazing stuff so long as there’s no water in it. I have made tons (literally) of beeswax scented pillar, taper and molded shape candles and never needed anything to hold fragrance oils and essential oils stable. I have added 10% or more FO just to see what would happen (not needed, just pushing the boundaries to see what would happen). The FO is still perfectly stable years later even after spending time in hot vehicles, and out at summer events. I mail them to friends in Utah and the california desert in summer and let them sit in mailboxes that stay >130*F with zero trouble. I am currently using beeswax given to me by a bee keeper who made it himself. It's very dark though, don't think it's been perfectly filtered or maybe it's been burnt. Not sure if that can have a big impact too on the way my candles burn? the darker the wax the harder the burn. It could be from old comb versus nice capping. Old comb is no fun. Some of my dark batches of beeswax needed a wick like a clothesline just to burn. Maybe that is why your friend advised to use coconut - to make up for wax that is unsuitable for candles? 👻 My replies in your quote in red above. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankandcrow Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 It took me a while to reply, because I wanted to give it a go first and THANK YOU!! The difference is HUGE. Can't believe how many/if not ALL references online tell you to use coconut oil (or another veg oil) when using beeswax! I've read figures from 20 tot 50%!! THANK YOU for your help, I finally have decent candles that do what they are supposed to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 3 hours ago, frankandcrow said: It took me a while to reply, because I wanted to give it a go first and THANK YOU!! The difference is HUGE. Can't believe how many/if not ALL references online tell you to use coconut oil (or another veg oil) when using beeswax! I've read figures from 20 tot 50%!! THANK YOU for your help, I finally have decent candles that do what they are supposed to. Yay! So happy to hear. I think most of the coconut and other oils are recommended for trying to shoe horn beeswax into containers. Beeswax is a stand-alone star in tapers ad pillar type candles. best of luck to you in your candle journey. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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