How Do you get a Clear Melt Pool Using Ecosoya 135?

[Grani L]

Hello, just a quick question –

I am beginning to do testing with Container Candles, which is already a soft wax. Currently using Ecosoya 135. So, one thing I have noticed is that inside of the melt pool is a bit murky- not opaque like some store bought candles that I have observed. But is it correct to assume the only basic reason to add additives would be for reasons to be able to add more FO so It won’t leak out, or to harden the wax, or to just give the candle a certain look-- It appears that all the additives – Vybar, Stearic Acid, Gloss Poly / Luster Crystals, Translucent Crystals, and Microcrystalline Waxes – these all are hardeners, and or FO retainers. So unless you are making your own blend with a straight wax, what is the other purpose when you can buy a harder MP wax – I just wonder would the murkiness still be in the harder MP wax- I haven’t tested? But I wouldn’t want to be back at square one, with a harder wax , still with the same murky issue going on.

So, my point is I would like for my Melt Pool to be nice and clear –I will test but if anyone could give me what direction to go in, I would appreciate it. Although there is no wax left on the side of the jar by the third burn, it is a light milkshake type of film left on the sides. The result I want is a fairly clear Jar and a clear Melt Pool. So what additive can be used for SOY to clear the Melt Pool? Or should I just forget possible additives and just blend it with a wax – as I have thought to blend it with J223. I have blended 135 with 4630, 70 /30 – this Melt Pool was pretty Clear, as well the Jar Sides, but the cold throw seemed to be almost nonexistent compared to the cold throw of Straight 135.

- So please, any suggestions will be appreciated-

[lmc]

Yes, soy tends to leave a film behind and mp wont be clear. If that is your goal then you're going in the right direction by adding paraffin to the soy...you may need to up the paraffin for a 'cleaner' jar but 70/30 is a good ratio. hth

[Judy, USMC]

Hi Granni - Just wanted to throw in a couple of personal observations/opinions. If you are getting a good throw and only have a bit of film on the inside of the glass you should be happy. So many here struggle with soy hot throw. And, as you can see by your soy/para blend, anytime you change up your wax blend the throw will change and you may need to change the wicking also. Even putting additives in may cause throw and/or wicking issues. Then it's back to testing. It's exactly like going back to square one when you start playing with additives or blending your own wax combo.

If the wax looks murky you may want to bump up to a hotter wick. Hot wax is always clear. But please keep in mind that overwicking may affect the scent throw and may cause some problems as it burns at a lower level in the jar. I've found a lot of store bought candles are over wicked ... the faster it burns the faster you will need to go to the store for a replacement which is a great profit maker. HTH

ETA: Thought about this a bit more and maybe just changing the wick to a different type may give you what you want. So may varieties out there ... CD, HTP, RRD, LX and on. Just means more testing - but that seems to be a never-ending chore!

Edited January 25, 2013 by Judy, USMC

[Grani L]

Thanks.