fredron

I would use a combination of red and brown, then add some orange.

Fredron

I don't know how they make pea sized melts, but I have a product called DOTZ that I use for using up wax left over from tarts & votives. They are about the size of a nickel cut in half. I made a couple molds for them at work. They're a pain to pour, but they use up the wax.

We use them as an enticement to buy at craft shows. Buy 2 candles, get a bag of DOTZ of your choice.

Fredron

I do a rose which is about 2" in diameter and 1 1/4" thick. This one burns about 12 hours using 6228 wax. I alco make the same candle using only the top half of the mold, making it about 5/8" thick, which burns about 6 hours.

Fredron

I've used J-50 (which I blend with other waxes) for several years, and have not noticed any change.

Fredron

I really wouldn't worry about it. We have 285 fragrances on our list, and try as I will, there are a few color dupes in there.

As long as they're labelled correctly, you're the only one who will care.

Fredron

If you're looking for some startling mottling, try some Palm wax. There are 2 varieties I've used, "Q" wax for Pillars, and "F" wax for containers. The results are amazing. Use no additives, and follow the melt/pour suggestions, and the starburst patterns will form.

The feathering shows up better when using dark colors, and you will have to add more color than normal. The feathering seems to lighten the color, so double your color.

Fredron

We are fortunate in PA. You have Early American in Pittsburgh, Candlewic near Philly & Candles and Supplies, also in Eastern PA.

Fredron

If you will PM me, I'll make you some copper toppers with whatever shape hole you would like, and put the holes wherever you want them.

Fredron

Thanks for your help.

Fredron

Does anyone have a source for 3" shrink wrap tubing? I'm using 4" now, and found a way to make it work for votives & tarts, but it's a lot of work. 3" would be just right.

I can find 12", 16" & 24", but no 3".

Somebody must have it, any ideas?

Fredron

16oz Lovespell & Lovespell tealights, 16 oz Cherry Almond, and a couple of my own blends, O'Granate and Afternoon Delight.

I developed new labels, and I have a couple hundred to relabel, so while I'm waiting for wax to melt, I'll do that.

Sunday I'm going skiing.

Fredron

There is only one person who can answer this question for you. You!

It doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. If you're not satisfied with even a little mushrooming, or sooting, and you get some, then it's too much.

Decide whats acceptable to you, and if you're satisfied, my opinion doesn't count.

Fredron

Try glassplusmore.

Fredron

Leaking molds can be a thing of the past. PM me and I'll give you my method.

We haven't had a leaky mold in years. No screws, no putty, no tape.

Fredron

What is the temperature of the wax when you pour? If it's too hot it might sink. IGI should give you a pour temp.

I also cool my container candles in a cooling box I made from styrofoam insulation. It takes 8 to 10 hours for my candles to fully cool and I get no holes. A sheet of the insulation costs about $10.00, and you can make several boxes from 1 sheet.

Fredron

I've found several tart molds that leaked where they were spot welded to the base. I've had to resolder them.

I don't get pillar mold leaks any more since I stopped using putty & rubber plugs.

Fredron

Put your jars in the oven & let the wax remelt, pour it out & try again. But you must anchor the wick at the top of the jar as well as the bottom. For a long time I used shis kabob skewers and wrapped the wick around them. Now I make a 3 legged spider with a hole in the middle to hold the wicks in place. I make the spiders at work, and they're great.

Fredron

I have soldered my votive cups to some copper sheets I get from work. Then I just line up the sheets & go to town.

Fredron

When using liquid dyes, I find it necessary to get smaller drops to get the final colors I want. Right out of the bottle, the eyedropper makes what I call a large drop. I also use shish-kabob skewers dipped in the dye to get what I call a small drop. Dip it in the dye, let the first drop fall back into the bottle, and the following drops are about half the size of the eyedropper drops. To get smaller drops, use smaller dippers. There is a practical limit to how small you can go--something called physics of liquids takes over, but I get consistant results with my small drops. This might help you get your ivory shade.

Fredron

A case of any IGI wax used to be 55# (5 slabs of 11#). Now there are 6 slabs of 11#, so the case should be 66#. I have not weighed one, but they are definately heavier. I have to carry them down the cellar stairs, and they are definately heavier.

I guess they are trying to cut down on the number of cardboard cases they use, as a cost cutting measure, since oil prices are so high, and they want to avoid price increases again.

Fredron

There is no way you will wick that shape to burn completely. You will always have a round melt pool, so the tops of the heart and the point on the bottom will remain.

Fredron

I've used a large melter for several years. I melt only in the pot, and add my FO and color in the pour pot after pouring the wax.

It would be a real time killer to have to clean out the melt pot after each fragrance.

Fredron

Took a big sniff of Red Hot Cinnamon once which had me wheezing for a while. Hope you're all right.

Fredron

Not to be critical, but it serves no purpose to ask what wicks we use, unless you also find out what wax we use them in.

Fredron

I have found that liquid dyes will thicken with time due to evaporation of the liquid in the dye. Some of mine have gotten thick with age-not to the point I can't work with them yet, but definately thicker.

I'm wondering what the liquid is, and if it can be re-added. It should take only a few drops to reach the original consistency.

Anyway, I'm guessing the thick dyes you received had been on the shelf quite a while.

Fredron