fredron

If you can't get through to Mike by phone because of the employee roadblock, write a letter describing your displeasure, and on the envelope, make it to his attention.

If it was my company, I'd want you to raise hell until you got me, then I'd deal with the problem child.

By the way, if you spent $25,000 a year with me, you could move in.

Fredron

Not to throw water on your enterprise, but if you've only made 6 candles, you are not ready to sell them. You have some serious testing to do first.

However, $5.00 manufacturing cost for a 16 oz candle is high. Buying jars, wicks and wax in bulk, ordering fragrance oil in large quantities, and printing my own labels and disclaimer labels, I have my 16oz candle cost at $2.67.

You will not be able to match that until you're producing in quantity.

Fredron

These are known as wet spots, and we all have had issues with them from time to time.

My solutions have changed through the years. For a long time I poured hot, about 180 degrees, into a heated jar, and slow cooled in cooling boxes I made. However, the J-50, which I use as my base wax in my blend has changed, and the old method doesn't work any longer.

Now I heat the wax to 195 degrees, add my scent, color, and additives, then wait until the temperature is 140 degrees, and pour into a warm jar, and don't worry about the slow cool.

I get a wet spot once in a while, but not often.

My suggestion is to experiment with pour temperatures. A warm wax will not shrink as much when cooling as a hot wax, so the chance for wet spots is reduced.

The IGI recommended pour temp for my J-50 is listed as 175-180 degrees, but at that temp, the results were ugly.

My point is, find what works best for you, even if it flies in the face of what is recommended.

Fredron

That was my discovery also with my blend using IGI's new J-50 (4636). Like you, I tried IGI's recommendations of pouring between 175 & 190, but still had a white crusty appearance to the side of the candle, caused, I believe, by shrinkage. I still pour into a slightly warmed jar, but now pour at 140 degrees, and the candles look great.

Fredron

Everything I've bought from them has been good. I buy their very cherry, patchouli, and a half dozen others, the names of which escape me at the moment, and I've never been disappointed.

Service is excellent, also. I buy the manufacturer's grade.

Fredron

While we're talking about labels, don't ever make a mistake when ordering from Labels by the Sheet. I had ordered 100 of each of 2 different sizes, and got the color wrong. When I asked about a return, I was told they could not be returned if the package was opened. I asked how I would know if they were the wrong color if I didn't open the package, but they would not accept them, even if I paid a restocking charge.

So I now buy from Online labels. They're less expensive too.

Fredron

Just poured a dozen more 22 oz & 16 oz containers last night, and they look good. So, the 140 pour temp is now the standard.

Fredron

For several years, I've used J-50 as a base for my paraffin/soy blend, and since IGI bought out Astor, I've been having trouble making it work. The surface was lousy, and as the candle set up, it pulled away from the jar wall, causing what looked like crusty white swirls. Usually a heat gun would fix the white patches, but nothing I tried stopped the problem from occurring. I tried pouring at various temperatures, (IGI's instructions said 170 -195 degrees) and tried modifying my formula, but nothing worked. IGI provided no help. Their attitude was their wax met their specifications, and if I was unhappy, buy from someone else. The response from the CMS was the same, and I was in the process of finding another wax, but had 500 pounds of the J-50 which had to be used. This weekend, I tried pouring at temperature just above the congealing point, and it seems to have worked. Everything I poured this weekend was fine. So my new pour temp is 140 degrees.

Fredron

We tried the tags & ribbons, but abandoned them after a few years. The tags were pulled off with the lids about half the time, and were a real pain. Even after I developed a slip knot which made them tighter on the jars, they were a pain.

We now use a round tan colored label which looks pretty sharp with almost every color, and decided to keep the ribbons just for color, and to help identify fragrances from a distance.

However, the proprietor of a craft store where we display our candles told us she didn't want the ribbons, so now I'm rethinking them. It's one less cost, and one less step in the process.

Fredron

I have made a couple cooling boxes from styrofoam insulation board used in home building. You can buy a 4' x 8' sheet for about $10.00. Cut it using a razor knife, and glue together using liquid nails & duct tape. Mine are 24" x 24" x 7" deep, with lids. In the beginning, I tried to make the box deep enough to have 2 layers, but soon settled on 2 boxes 1 layer deep.

I pour the candles & place in the box in the evening, and in the morning, they are set up, but still warm to the touch.

The boxes, while fairly strong, must sit on a flat surface. They can't overhang the table.

Fredron

When you fill the holes, do not pour higher than the original pour-just fill the holes.

Fredron

I've run into the same results on 4636 (the old J-50). Poor performance, ugly tops, and heavy shrinkage when setting up. I was in touch with IGI, with absolutely no satisfaction, then with CMS, and again no satisfaction. IGI says the wax has never changed, but I've used it for years with perfect results until IGI started making it. I've actually cut into hollow places in slabs where water ran out.

Fredron

I do a lot of craft shows, and make it a point to talk to anyone who makes candles, soy or paraffin. Most of us burn a sample at shows, to demonstrate how our product burns.

I've seen candles of both types (and blends) smoking like chimneys. The "clean burning" soy candle is a myth. As is the "smokey paraffin" candle.

If properly made, both will burn clean, and if improperly made, both will smoke.

I use my own blend, and light the candle in the morning at shows, and let it burn. If I remember, I'll trim the wick once a day, but most days it never gets trimmed, and my candles don't smoke.

I use a soy blend mainly to sell to the people who believe soy is better, but my main ingredient is paraffin because it's easier to work with and has better scent throw, hot or cold.

Fredron

I tried their wax some time back. It was their basic container wax, and it was pretty good. I was about to try more, and start doing detailed testing, but about that time, I hit on my blend, and stopped. However, I may get back into the testing again, since IGI has changed their J-50 into a wax I can't use any longer.

Anything you get from Robert at TC will be good though, and their customer service is excellent.

Fredron

I work in the basement, and the computer is on the other side of a dividing wall, but in the same room. I keep a jar warmer there also.

Fredron

I've developed a method that uses no putty or tape, and works well. I threw all the sticky stuff away years ago.

If you're interested, PM me, and I'll tell you how it's done.

fredron

I'm sure they have a UK equivalent of what we use in the States. You should try a place where they sell lumber, paint, and building supplies. A good harware store will sell them also.

Fredron

I have used J-50 (IGI 4636A) for years, mixed in my own blend, and never had a problem. Since IGI took over, I'm running into the same types of problems you describe with the 4630. I don't get cracks, but I do get white crusty patches between the jar and the wax, which require a heat gun repair on almost every candle.

I have tried pouring at temperatures in 5 drgree increments from 140 degrees to 190 degrees, into heated jars, and for years I've placed my candles in slow cooling boxes made from styrofoam insulation board. Nothing has worked to eliminate the problem for me.

My candles have even lost the nice, creamy appearance that brought me to use it in the first place.

I've been in touch with IGI for help, and they asked for a couple candles to see what the problem looked like, but after a couple weeks, I got no answer. After prodding the guy I sent them to, he responded they burned them, and found no problem. Also he said they checked their test reports for the batch number used for my candles and found the was was within their specification for that wax. Basically they told me to get over it.

I don't know what the answer is, but I will keep looking.

I have tested a wax sold by JS, and it looks really good, so after I run out of my latest purchase, a change might be in order.

Fredron

It's your candle, you can call it whatever you want, but some of the more bizarre names catch the eye quickest.

We sell more butt naked and monkey farts than any others at shows. The names catch the eye, then the fragrance does the rest.

Fredron

If your area buys tarts, it makes sense. Percentage wise, I make more selling tarts than candles, and I don't have to deal with wicks and jars, and tarts are easier to make. I never thought of a show with only tarts, but it might be worth a try. It would be nice to not have to deal with the weight of boxes of candles.

Fredron

This depends on the type equipment you have. The oven will work just fine. A temperature of 200 degrees should work.

I also use an electric hot plate to heat my jars, and I put candles that need remelted on there for an hour or so. A heat gun will also work, but it takes a while, and you'll have to pour out the wax a little at a time as it melts.

Fredron

Whose FO are you using? I've never had the problem with leather. I get mine from NG, and as well as pouring it straight, I mix it with other scents to get four other fragrances, and all have turned out well.

Fredron

Is anyone besides me having trouble with IGI's version of J-50? I use it as a base for my own blend, and even though IGI says their formulation it the same as Astor's, I find it totally different. I'm getting white swirls between the wall of the jar and the wax, and the worst wet spots I've ever seen. Also the wax doesn't look the same after it sets up. It always had a smooth, creamy consistance. Now it looks rough and course. I've tried variety of pouring temperature changes, and actually made a few candles with only the J-50, but nothing I've tried has made much of a difference.

IGI asked me to send them a couple candles to inspect, which I've done, and I'm waiting for their response.

Anyone else see any differences?

Fredron

Good luck with wicking that wax. I tried off and on for a couple years when I was looking for my ideal wax. It almost became necessary to wick each fragrance individually.

I still have a case that's been there for at least 3 years.

Fredron

If you ever do an outdoor craft show, even with a canopy, you'll find out. Most canopies are water resistant, not water proof. And then there's the time when you'll have to set up or pack up in a downpour. Or the time when some kid spills a coke on your display.

I'm sure you get the idea.

Fredron